Woodland Orchids

I consider myself a fairly good gardener, but I have never enjoyed success with indoor orchids such as Phalaenopsis or Dendrobium. It must have something to do with the neglect I inflict on houseplants while I cajole outdoor plants into health and beauty. There are two orchids that thrive in southeastern woodlands without any mollycoddling.

Downy Rattlesnake Plantain (Goodyera pubescens) is an evergreen perennial wildflower found in woodlands across the eastern half of our country. The plant is small and easily overlooked. The distinctive leaves are very attractive, deep blue-green with distinctive veining and prominent light stripe down the center of each leaf. After a plant is several years old, it throws a single bloom stem in mid-summer with 20 to 80 tiny white flowers. These flowering stems remind me of another plant in the orchid family, Lady’s Tresses (Spiranthes). Lady’s Tresses requires plentiful water, while Rattlesnake Plantain prefers average to dry, acidic soils with plentiful organic content. It is commonly found in the same areas as Creeping Cedar.

Pipsissewa popping through a field of creeping cedar.

Rattlesnake Plantain is easily confused with another wildflower, Pipsissewa (Chimaphila maculata), sometimes called Spotted Wintergreen. The two can be distinguished by their different leaf arrangement: Rattlesnake Plantain leaves are held in a basal rosette, while Pipsissewa leaves are held on a stem. I like the musical sound of Pipsissewa: pip-SIS-uh-wuh.

While Rattlesnake Plantain can be grown as a houseplant and in terrariums, it is listed as endangered in several states and should not be dug from the wild. It is sometime possible to find them for sale by native plant societies. Propagation is from root cuttings or dust-like seeds. It was named Wildflower of the Year for 2016.

Pipsissewa produces plentiful seeds and is common in woodlands. In the past, leaves of Pipsissewa were used to flavor root beer. It is one of my favorite discoveries when walking through the forest. The deep green leaves with white netting are gorgeous. The blooms? Meh. Just appreciate them for the foliage and their willingness to thrive without care.

If you pine after something a little more showy than these two woodland orchids, stayed tuned for next week’s feature on Bletilla striata, Hardy Orchid. She’s a beauty!

Admire the pretty leaves of this Pipsissewa. Seedlings are coming up in the leaf litter.

Pineapple Lily

Pineapple Lily (Eucomis comosa) is not a fruit, but a perennial bulb related to asparagus. Tiny buds are packed along a vertical stem, similar to Liatris. An active imagination might conjure this into a skinny pineapple, hence the common name. Eucomis (pronounced yoo-CO-miss or YOO-co-miss) are perennial in zones 7b through 10a. They bloom best in full sun but will tolerate partial shade. They want a well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter and thrive with generous irrigation, although they will survive limited drought. Wet or boggy soils will result in root rot.

Pineapple Lily flowers attract bees and butterflies. Flowers are available in  ivory, pink, or lavender shades, often flecked with either green, burgundy or ivory. The long thick leaves emerge at ground level and resemble amaryllis or crinum. The blooms start opening at the bottom and work their way to the top, over a long bloom period of eight weeks or so. ‘Sparkling Burgundy’ is a widely available cultivar. It has lavender flowers on a purple stem and the leaves have a wine tint also. ‘Freckles’ has reddish flowers. There is a cultivar with yellow/green flowers and foliage, but I have not found it in local nurseries.

The narrow, upright growth form means this plant can be sited in tight spaces where many other flowers would not fit. A mature clump will reach two feet tall with a spread between one and two feet. They look spectacular when planted in large drifts. Pineapple Lilies also perform well in containers, but I recommend that you keep them away from nose-level. They are pollinated by flies, so it is not a surprise that some of them smell rank. Bulbs in the ground should be somewhat deep (4-5 inches) but those in containers should be just under soil surface. A winter mulch helps ensure their longevity.

A group of Eucomis

Trumpet Vine or Crossvine?

“What is that gorgeous orange-red vine blooming right now?” I receive this inquiry every year. I only need to look at the calendar to answer. If the question comes in spring, I know the vine is Crossvine (Bignonia). If it is summer, the answer is Trumpet Vine (Campsis), also known as Trumpet Vine or Trumpet Creeper.

A Trumpet Vine bloom. This flower is several days old, so it is a pinkish red. Newly opened flowers are a bright orange-red.

Bloom time notwithstanding, there are distinguishable differences between the two. The tubular blooms appear the same, but a closer look will reveal that Crossvine is a reddish orange with a yellow throat, while Trumpet Vine is a solid red, orange, or (rarely) yellow. Crossvine leaves have smooth edges and are evergreen, taking on red or purple tints in cold weather. The vines have tiny little tendrils that they use to climb trees or trellises. Trumpet Vine leaves are attractive, toothed and compound, with 7 to 11 leaflets. The leaves shed in cold weather. Trumpet Vines have little sucker feet that stick like glue to whatever it are climbing. The vines become thick and woody with age, like wisteria.

Both these plants are lovely when in bloom, but Crossvine is much better behaved. Trumpet Vine is aggressive and considered invasive throughout much of the southeast. Crossvine will sucker, but Trumpet Vine throws out long underground runners that surface in the form of new plants. The weight of a mature Trumpet Vine can damage trees. Above soil level, it is a Medusa-like thug that throws waving stems in all directions.

Crossvine will grow in sun or shade, in zones 6 to 9. It blooms most heavily in sun and prefers a neutral soil. It will tolerate drought or short periods of standing water. It will reach heights of up to 50 feet, but accepts pruning to keep it shorter.

Trumpet Vine produces plentiful nectar, beloved by hummingbirds and ignored by deer. If your garden has space for a large, privacy-making evergreen vine, give native Crossvine a try. Other polite, evergreen alternatives include Confederate Jasmine and Clematis Armandii.

The exuberant foliage of Campsis

Well-behaved crossvine atop a pergola

Mimosa, Beautiful and Evil

As I walked across our pasture with the dogs this week, a soft scent took me back to childhood, when my favorite tree was the Mimosa.  Mimosas (Albizia julibrissin) are dwarf but fast-growing trees that branch near the bottom, making them perfect for young children to climb. They have a short life span (10 to 20 years, max). I can remember howling when my parents cut the backyard specimen to the ground and quoted Poe’s Raven, “Nevermore.”

Mimosas seem magical. Their pink puffball blooms smell faintly of baby powder and remind one of a ballerina’s tutu. The lacy compound leaves fold up when touched, as a reaction to changes in stem pressure. The magic ends when the blooms drop, leaving behind numerous bean-like seed pods. The unsightly pods remain even after leaves drop in the fall. Herein lies the problem. Those pods contain numerous seeds, all guaranteed to germinate. Everywhere. This nasty habit far exceeds the benefit of a tree that will thrive in heat, drought, and any type of soil. This is one of the first plants to colonize clear-cut fields in the southeast.

Southern Living Magazine’s Steve Bender (also known as The Grumpy Gardener) answered a reader who inquired as to the proper time to prune Mimosa: “Any time you can find a chainsaw.” Click here to read his diatribe against the species. NC State University recommends, “Cut down large trees with a chainsaw and treat outer two inches of cut surface of stump with undiluted glyphosate concentrate (53.8% is preferable).” Click here to read the full article. 

Mimosa is considered an exotic, invasive species. Around a decade ago, a cultivar with burgundy-chocolate leaves came into the trade. It was immediately popular. Alas, those plants are nearing the end of their natural life, so gardeners who utilized them as focal points are now searching for replacements.

Consider using dogwood, redbud or buckeye as a well-behaved alternative.

A sweet fragrance and delicate foliage

A thicket of Mimosas alongside an untended frontage road. They are slowly displacing native species.

Stars and Stripes in the Garden

In honor of Independence Day, today’s blog will focus on Stars and Stripes. Pentas lanceolata ‘Stars and Stripes’™ is cold-hardy down to 20 degrees, so it is perennial only in zones 9b and warmer. I grow it as a annual in zone 7b.

Solid green leaf Pentas are available in red, pink, lavender, rose, purple, and white. The common name, Egyptian Star Flower, is a good description of the clusters of tubular nectar-rich blooms that attract hummingbirds, bees, and numerous butterflies. ‘Stars and Stripes’ has bright red blooms, and the green and white variegated foliage is outstanding.

I first saw Stars and Stripes in a local botanical garden, where the horticulturalist paired it with ‘Hot Lips’ Salvia. The combination of red and white Salvia blooms paired with the variegated foliage and red blooms of the Pentas was a clear winner. It impressed me enough to repeat the combination in my own garden, although now I allow the Pentas to take center stage without competition from the bushy Salvia.

Pentas lanceolata (pronounced PEN-tass lan-see-oh-LAY-tuh) are heat lovers that do well in either flower beds or containers. They look super when planted in masses. They are relatively drought tolerant, but those in containers may need irrigation in the hottest, driest months. They prefer a pH neutral soil. Plants bloom throughout the summer, even more prolifically when dead-headed.  They are compact growers, reaching up to 24 inches with an equal spread. Should they ever get unwieldy, they can be pruned and will bunch obligingly.  Pentas prefer full sun but will survive in part-sun, although the stems may flop a bit. The ‘Graffiti’ and ‘Lucky Stars’ series are both shorter, reaching 16 inches or less.

The only weakness I have found is that the stems are somewhat brittle, so you should plant them in an area where they won’t be damaged by high winds or when the family dog exhibits an enthusiastic case of the “zoomies.” (Dog owners know what I mean. For the uninitiated, some dogs tend to run in circles, full-speed with wild abandon, for no apparent reason, leaving a wake of plant destruction.)

As an added bonus, deer ignore Pentas.

Stars and Stripes, blooming in time for July 4 celebrations.

One of the non-variegated types.
The Lucky Stars penta series has a compact growth habit and vibrant colors as seen in this Lucky Star lavender. (Photo by MSU Extension/Gary Bachman)

A mass planting of pentas. Photo used with the kind permission of The Neighborhood Nursery, 131 Woods Road, Fountain Inn, SC. Please support your local nurseries! @TheNeighborhoodFarmSC

Redbuds for Summer Foliage Color

Eastern Redbud trees (Cercis canadensis) are known for lighting up the garden in early spring with brilliant, reddish-purple blooms before foliage appears. (For a link to my 2018 blog post about Redbud trees, click here.) The green-leaf types fade into polite obscurity after blooming. Their showy cousins, however, sport foliage that will electrify the summer garden.

It does not matter if your taste leans toward rich purple or screaming chartreuse, upright forms or weepers, there are special cultivars that will be focal features in your summer garden.

‘Ruby Falls’ weeping Redbud

‘Ruby Falls’ is a purple-leaf weeping tree with a compact growth habit that will grow no more than 30 feet. ‘Merlot’ is an upright form with the same maroon foliage. ‘Forest Pansy’ is a taller, older cultivar that is gorgeous early in the season, but its leaves change to mostly green in the heat of the summer.

New growth on ‘The Rising Sun’ Cercis canadensis

‘The Rising Sun’ new growth is apricot, changing to chartreuse and then a bright green. A healthy tree will put on new leaves all summer, so all three colors will appear at the same time. Unfortunately, ‘The Rising Sun’ has weak branch structure and is prone to breaking in windy areas or under snow or ice loads. The specimen in the Mary Snoddy garden lost more than half its limbs in summer storms. Several friends have trees that suffered similar damage, to confirm that this is not an anomaly. It is a beautiful tree and I will add more to my collection, but will site them in an area with a windbreak like the one shown in the accompanying photo, below. ‘Hearts of Gold’ has similar chartreuse color but does not show any apricot or peach tones.

Redbuds are considered understory trees, performing best in the south when given light shade from taller trees. They are one of the few plants that will thrive near black walnut trees. High light exposure results in more blooms and denser growth habit, but expect to provide supplemental irrigation if sited in full sun. Most trees are naturally multiple-trunked, which I find more attractive and natural-looking than those trained to a single leader. Plant them where low-hanging limbs will not block walkways or behead the person mowing the lawn.

Exercise special care to avoid damaging the thin bark. A string trimmer is The Enemy. Injury provides an opportunity for canker or other fungal problems.

Redbuds grow in zones 5-9 and are rarely browsed by deer. They transplant most successfully when small but gain size rapidly. Their life expectancy is about 20 years but may succumb much sooner if exposed to pre-emergents or herbicides.

‘The Rising Sun’(tm) Redbud appears to advantage when seen against a backdrop of darker evergreens, which also serve to protect it from wind breakage.

‘Ruby Falls” is a tree for lovers, covered in burgundy hearts

Practice Tolerance Toward Spittlebugs

Little gobs of foamy stuff have appeared on the stems of various plants in the Mary Snoddy garden. Spittlebugs (or “Froghoppers”) feed by piercing stems and sucking the juices from ornamentals and grasses. The different members of this family exhibit particular food preferences. The Pine Spittlebug, for instance, feeds on members of the Pine (Pinus) family. The two-lined Spittlebug is the one inhabiting salvias and coneflowers in my garden.

Spittlebugs start life as eggs, usually found in tiny orange-ish clusters. The eggs lay dormant during winter. When they hatch in spring, nymphs find a host plant, start eating, and produce “spit.” If you are inquisitive enough to handle this blob of foam, you will find a small, greenish insect at its center. The Spittlebug exudes foam to protect itself from drying out or being eaten as it goes through five molts, growing larger and more defined at each iteration. The nymph stage lasts 34 to 60 days. Adults live up to 42 days. The adult two-lined Spittlebug is rather attractive with its Halloween coloration, black with two orange lines and red eyes. A sharp-eyed observer will see a flash of red when the wings are extended in flight.

Unless the insects are present in large numbers, you can ignore them. The occasional bug doesn’t harm the plant. If you find them too disgusting to tolerate, try washing them away with a strong spray from the garden hose. Infestations can cause damage on centipede grass, especially vulnerable when it is choked with thatch. You should only consider chemical treatments in case of a large infestation. Consult your local Extension office for insecticide recommendations.

This foamy blob conceals and protects a Spittlebug, also known as a Froghopper.

Inside the spittle is the nymph. This one is nearing maturity, probably in its fourth molt.

This photo of an adult Two-Lined Spittle Bug was taken by Royal Tyler, Pro Pest and Lawn Store, Bugwood.org.

Indian Pink, Beautiful Native

Indian Pink, also known as Pinkroot, is a native perennial wildflower. Its tubular flowers light up shady areas and attract hummingbirds. The Latin name, Spigelia marilandica (pronounced spy-GEEL-ee-ah mar-i-LAND-ih-kah) rolls off the tongue easily, with a musical quality that is absent in the common name. Spigelia is considered a threatened species in several states. I treasure my stand, and guard its good health. Plants are not widely found in nurseries. Mine came from a Native Plant Society sale.

Spigelia grows in light shade and prefers damp soil. It will survive periods of drought once established and will not tolerate a boggy area.  Keep the lime away from this one; it prefers an acidic-to-neutral home. Woodland soil high in organic content is ideal. Plants bloom in the Mary Snoddy garden in late-May to June, with flowers occurring at the top tips of the stems. The flowering period lasts several weeks. Plants reach heights up to three feet, in zones 5a through 9b. Flowers are red on the outside and yellow on the inside. The petal tips flare so that both colors are visible - gorgeous!

It takes several years for a newly planted Spigelia to reach its potential. Established clumps can be divided for propagation, but plants will reseed themselves if left alone. Flowers are followed by seed capsules that explode when ripe and spread their seeds around. It may take a year or two for those self-sown babies to bloom. Plants can also be propagated by cuttings taken in May, before flowering begins.

Appreciate Spigelia for its beauty but don’t be tempted to nibble. All parts are toxic, containing a form of strychnine poison.

Blue Eyed Grass - Petite Wildflower

Today’s blog features Sisyrinchium (pronounced sis-ee-RING-kee-um), commonly known as Blue Eyed Grass. Despite its name, it is not a grass but a member of the Iris family. Blue Eyed Grass is not a showstopper that will catch your eye from a distance. Rather, its subtle beauty is enjoyed as a little surprise in your lawn or flower beds. The blooms are tiny, so it is best appreciated when planted near to eye level, either from raised planters or containers. Blue Eyed Grass will grow in sun or partial shade. They spread fastest in damp soil but will do well in any well-drained soil, zones 4-9.

Seeds are available, but if you convince a friend to donate a clump, the plants will spread into colonies via rhizomes. Appearing in early spring and sporadically thereafter, the blue blooms have yellow throats that serve as runway lights to pollinators, directing them to the pollen and nectar-rich blossoms. Honeybees love this plant.

The grassy foliage of Sisyrinchium will blend into the lawn and can be sheared (translation: trimmed via lawnmower) without damaging the plant. Leaves may reach 10 inches or more in length, but their growth habit is more horizontal than upright, so the plant height is usually 6 inches or so.

Blue Eyed Grass isn’t a “wowzer” plant, but a sweet, delicate treat.

The yellow centers and darker veins are directional markers for honeybees.

Sweet little blooms, one-fourth the size of a thumbnail

Black Snake Appreciation

Some people are so terrified of snakes, any snakes, that it would be pointless for me to attempt to convince them that some of these reptiles are quite beneficial indeed. I’m thinking of the handsome black snakes that live quietly in and around the Mary Snoddy garden. These shiny black snakes are found across the entire southeastern US. The Latin name is a mouthful so, with apologies to herpetologists, let’s be content with calling them Black Racer, King Snake, Chicken Snake, Black Rat Snake, Coachwhip, Ring Neck Snake, or simply Black Snake. There are differences between these (the Ring Neck wears a yellow-green necklace, for instance) but as a gardener I don’t feel the need to distinguish. And it is a certainty that I am not going to examine the anal plates of any snake I encounter to make an exact determination. They all share an endearing characteristic – they dine on mice, rats, voles, squirrels, frogs, lizards and (best of all!) have an appetite for poisonous snakes like the copperheads that share the same territory. Not so charming is their taste for bird eggs and even small birds. Take the good with the bad.

My husband subscribes to the theory that “the only good snake is a dead snake,” so I was surprised when he summoned me outdoors to look at a pair. Near the base of a damaged black walnut tree, I witnessed something I had never seen before. Two black snakes were wrapped around each other in a slow dance. I confirmed with Google that what I was seeing was mating. Call me a voyeur, but I couldn’t stop watching. Their dance was slow, graceful, and anything but erotic. Thirty minutes later, they disappeared into a previously unnoticed hole at the base of the tree, probably to shower and smoke a post-coitus cigarette. Check out this photo of the two lovers.

A pair of black snakes in their mating dance

According to the University of Michigan, the Black Rat Snake has an average lifespan of 33.9 years. University of North Carolina estimates the average life as a much shorter 23 years. Male Black Rat Snakes reach maturity at seven years, while females mature sexually at nine years. The breeding cycle runs from May through June. As a result of a tryst, Mama Snake will lay between 6 and 24 eggs, which hatch in 37 to 51 days. The emerging babies are about a foot long. For a year or two, the youngsters will stay close to the place they hatched. Adults may reach lengths up to six feet. They shed their external skins as they grow.

Black snakes are found in all types of terrain, from forests to swamps. They are most active during daytime. When they sense a predator, they tend to kink tightly in an attempt to mimic a non-edible stick. This behavior inspired the old-timer’s expression that something was “as crooked as a black snake,” They are not aggressive and escape from humans when given the chance. When trapped or feeling threatened, they release an offensive stink and may rattle the tips of their tails. They only strike when feeling seriously endangered.

The rapid movement of the forked tongue that some people find creepy is the snake’s method of “smelling” their surroundings.  Colloquial advice abounds concerning smells that repel snakes, from human urine to mothballs. There are products designed to repel, but these are toxic to pets and are best avoided. The best way to keep snakes from your home is to block entry points and to remove food sources (pet food) that attract rodents. (Snake repellents don’t have the same fun names as deer repellents. My favorite deer repellents are Not Tonight Deer, Liquid Fence and Hinder.) Farmers welcome Black Snakes for their rodent-eating benefits.

A dear friend of mine would sing loudly when picking blackberries in an attempt to alert snakes to her presence and scare them away. Her song had a charming refrain, (“Go Away Snake, Snake Go Away”) but did little to ensure a non-encounter. Black snakes don’t have external ears. Instead they hear by sensing vibrations with an efficient inner ear. She would have been more successful by imitating the heavy footfalls of Big Foot.

Snakes are cold-blooded reptiles. They can raise their temperature by basking in the sun and lower it by hanging out in the shade. They hibernate in winter and may gather in numbers up to sixty to share warmth. Their mouths have a unique unhinged jaw structure that enables them to eat prey up to three times their apparent mouth size. They eat only when hungry. During warm weather, a snake may eat every three days or as little as once per month. Inactive snakes, such as those in zoo captivity, may only eat a couple of times a year.

Any snake raised in the wild will bite if it is grabbed. The result is similar to a bee sting in pain. Aquarium-raised snakes are more accustomed to handling by humans and are more docile. If you find a snake sunning on your concrete drive or some other undesired location, try using a boom to shoo it away. Teach children to leave snakes alone or at least to admire them from a distance.

This black snake is attempting to look like a stick, to avoid an encounter with an interested gardener (me).

Black And Blue Salvia

I’ve never met a Salvia that I didn’t like, and Salvia guaranitica ‘Black and Blue’ is at the top of the favorites list. They typically start blooming around Father’s Day in my zone 7b garden. To the delight of my hummingbirds, they opened much earlier this year (first blooms on May 8). The hummers ignore the feeders to sip nectar from the cobalt-blue blooms with black calyxes.

The Black and Blue specimen in the Mary Snoddy garden arrived as a 4-inch pot from the local nursery more than ten years ago. The first year was just okay, but the following years it flourished. The plant has spread by rhizomes and is now more than six feet across after numerous divisions. I have moved pieces to several locations throughout the grounds and given away countless divisions. It shows best when planted in masses rather than singles.

This is the tallest Salvia in the Snoddy garden, reaching five feet or more. It is an ideal candidate for the back of the flowerbeds. In the hottest part of the year (August), it usually takes a break from flowering. At that time, I use an electric hedge trimmer to cut it back to two feet. I give it a booster of liquid fertilizer after pruning and it rapidly regenerates and will bloom again about four weeks later. Flowering continues all the way to freezing weather. The top growth dies to the ground in winter and should be removed. Plants are perennial in zones 7 to 10, but can be grown as annuals in cooler areas. In zone 7, it is best to protect your dormant plants with a light winter mulch like pine needles.

Black and Blue is an easy plant to grow in full sun, with little to no supplemental irrigation. Oddly, several recipients of my divisions have reported failures after transplanting. I potted up a three-gallon container earlier this year, and for the first few weeks, I thought it was a goner. The top growth turned black and died. In the last week, it has regenerated from the roots and looks healthy. Perhaps it just resents disturbance. Black and Blue has the square stems typical of members of the mint family and is easily propagated by cuttings. I have rooted cuttings in both soil and water with equal success.

During its first year, Black and Blue grows thick, knotty rhizomes that resemble black fingerling potatoes. These underground storage chambers allow the plant to survive long periods of drought. Once established, it is truly a fuggedaboutit plant. Deer ignore it and the pollinators love it.

A honeybee visiting ‘Black and Blue’ Salvia

A large clump of ‘Black and Blue’ Salvia, begging for division.

Singing the Blues

Regular readers may notice a clear color preference. I admit it — I love blue flowers, including those that might be considered weedy. As a child, my favorite color in the box of Crayola 64 (the beginning of each school year started with a fresh box “with a built-in sharpener!”) was definitely Cornflower Blue. I learned to love Cornflowers from an early age. Wild Cornflowers edged the fields of my grandparents’ farm. My mother identified them as Ragged Robins. She also told me that ALL snakes were deadly and I might keel over if I even looked at one too long. She was well-meaning, but wrong on both counts.

Ragged Robin is the common name for another flower with similar petals. The blue blooms in these photos are Centaurea cyanus (pronounced Cen-TUR-e-a sigh-AN-us), commonly known as Cornflowers or Bachelor's Buttons. They earned the Cornflower moniker because they bloom in corn fields throughout the US and UK, in all zones. How’s that for accommodating?

As a result of social distancing, I am suffering a case of cabin fever. My husband took me for a country drive, and obediently braked and reversed when I screamed, “Stop - I need a photo!” I don’t know whose pasture I invaded, but I hope they enjoy the blue haze as much as I did.

Seeds are available for this drought-tolerant plant that is native to Europe but has naturalized across our country. The seeds sprout easily and the plants grow rapidly up to 30 inches. Named cultivars may be shorter. They bloom like mad during the spring, then fade into obscurity. If you resist the urge to deadhead spent blooms, they will reseed and naturalize. They look outstanding when seen with a yellow weed that blooms about the same time in our Zone 7b. (Sorry, I don’t know the name of the yellow weed.) Grow them in full sun. Shade produces a weak, floppy stem.

The typical color is Cornflower blue but a pink, white or burgundy bloom may pop up occasionally. Cornflowers attract bees and butterflies, and are a wonderful addition to your wildflower garden or meadow. Makes a good cut flower, too.

A closer look

A sea of blue in a country field. The reddish color in the distance is wild sorrel, also in bloom right now.

Bluebirds Bring Happiness - How to deal with a dropout

The Eastern Bluebird is one our most beloved birds.  This easily identified species is choosy about their nesting sites. Development destroyed much of their natural habitat and has led to a serious decline in population. Concerned citizens maintain a number of nesting boxes in an attempt to regenerate the numbers.

Nesting boxes should be installed before February, when nest building begins, and should remain up all year to provide protection during cold weather. Bluebirds will raise two or three broods each year, but will not re-use a nest built for the prior brood. This means you should remove the old nest just as soon as the little ones fledge. Allow the box to remain open a day or two to air out. This helps keep insect populations down.  Do not use pesticides inside or outside the boxes.

Regardless of our age, most people enjoy watching birds build their nests and feed their young. One of the nest boxes in the Mary Snoddy garden is mounted on an old sign post pole, with a baffle to make it safe from cats and snakes. Our bluebirds get busy every February, with eggs arriving a short while later. I tap on the side of the box before I open the front, and Mother Bird obligingly exits while I do an egg-count and later a baby-check. The parents don’t seem to mind my benign interference. I cheer them on as the hatchlings fledge, but feel a sense of loss at the same time. (Empty nest syndrome, anyone?)

The internet is filled with instructions and videos on how to build and place a bluebird nesting box, so I won’t replicate those instructions here. The North American Bluebird Society has an informative website. Visit  http://www.nabluebirdsociety.org/nabs-fact-sheets/  Here’s an extract: Site nest boxes on poles (not trees) in open areas. Provide water and food sources. Exclude predators. Enjoy!

This week I saw a baby robin that had fallen from its nest but was not able to fly. I saved it from an approaching predator (one of the Snoddy farm cats) but was uncertain how to proceed with the indignant little package of fluff and attitude. I found a graphic provided by the S.C. Department of Natural Resources, What To Do When You Find a Baby Bird. It has great advice, so I shared it as a photo.

Checking the nest box for an egg count.

…And here they are!

This baby robin plopped onto the netting I use to protect Hosta from hungry deer. I placed it back into a nearby shrub, and the parents soon coaxed it into the air, but not before it threatened me with bodily harm.

Pretty Persicaria, Easy For Shade

My apologies, readers. Yesterday’s blog contained an error in the plant photo identification. This is the corrected version. Sorry!

If you are looking for a low-maintenance plant with attractive foliage that will fill a shady area quickly, look no further than the Persicarias. Persicaria (pronounced per-sih-KAR-ee-uh) genus has a reputation for invasiveness but there is at least one member of the genus that is well-behaved. The common name, Knotweed, does not lend appeal. There are two species worthy of consideration.

Persicaria microcephala ‘Red Dragon’ leaves are burgundy marked with a vee-shaped shield. It has tiny white (sterile) flowers, but is grown for the lovely foliage. Unlike some of its cousins, Red Dragon has a clumping habit. It does not spread underground by stolons. It will, however, root if one of the stems rests atop soil. I have not encountered this, but a peony support or modified tomato cage would ensure it does not.  

Persicaria virginiana ‘Painter’s Palette’ brightens a shady area with pale yellow-to-cream foliage marked with green, pink, dark green and burgundy variegations. It is sometimes identified as Tovara virginiana. Painter’s Palette does spread by underground runners, so take great care to ensure that it does not extend into undesired areas. It produces skinny stems with tiny red flowers. These are attractive when seen up close, but are not particularly impressive.

Both Red Dragon and Painter’s Palette will reach 24 inches in height. They are low-maintenance, tolerating just about any soil and limited drought, though they thrive in partial shade with regular irrigation. Consider them as an alternative to Hosta. Because the beauty of these plants is in their foliage rather than blooms, they provide a much longer season of appeal than flowering plants. Although Persicarias are in the same family as buckwheat, they are not edible. Both species die to the ground in winter and return reliably in zones 6-8, maybe wider. In the Mary Snoddy garden, deer nibble on Red Dragon while they ignore the adjacent planting of Painter’s Palette. I don’t know why. I have given up trying to determine why certain plants are deer fodder.

Even though it is not perennial and it is not for shade, another Persicaria that deserves an honorable mention is Persicaria orientale. Its common name, Kiss-Me-Over-The-Garden-Gate, lured me into planting it. Unlike the two mentioned above, Kiss-Me is an annual.  It is grown from seed in full sun. It will not transplant, so must be started directly in the ground.  It reseeds, so an initial success is usually followed by a reappearance year after year. The Japanese Beetles love it as much as I do. By late summer, the leaves are tattered, so I have let this one slip from the Snoddy garden.

Please do not confuse the above Knotweeds with Mexican Bamboo, a thug also known as Japanese Knotweed. Now listed as Polygonum cuspidatum, it has moved in and out of several genus, including Fallopia, Reynoutria and Otatea. Mexican Bamboo is invasive everywhere. Once established, it is darn near impossible to eradicate. I set a clump on fire numerous times before I finally caved and treated it with nasty herbicides. Even then, it required multiple treatments to kill it. Several years ago, a normally reliable catalog company sold a variegated form that they said would not spread. It was beautiful; I was seduced. They were wrong. It spreads invasively, albeit a tiny bit slower than the non-variegated variety. DO NOT plant Mexican Bamboo. Newsweek magazine ran an article in July, 2014 entitled “Japanese Knotweed: The Invasive Plant That Eats the Value of Your Home.” I rest my case.

Painter's Palette

Red Dragon

Red Dragon

Kiss Me Over The Garden Gate

Mexican Bamboo

Variegated Mex Bamboo

Hug a Tree This Week

Today’s blog focuses on celebration rather than cultivation. We have double reasons to rejoice this week despite our continued self-isolation,  Today is the 50th anniversary of Earth Day. Friday, April 24, will be Arbor Day for most of the country. South Carolina celebrates Arbor Day the first Friday of December. In the southeast, fall planting is preferred to spring planting for many tree species.

Earth Day celebrates environmental protection. The five components include science (measuring air and water quality), advocacy through civic engagements, volunteering (especially clean ups), education and community events. Despite COVID-19 restrictions against group gatherings, we can play our individual roles to protect the planet on which we live. Recycle where possible, compost what is appropriate, and reduce use of toxins, including insecticides and weed killers. When toxin use is appropriate, always follow the label exactly. Adding “just a little more” is unnecessary, unhealthy and illegal.

Arbor Day is set aside to plant new trees and to celebrate the ones already in place. The idea originated in Nebraska in the 1880’s and became an official holiday in 1972. Trees are necessary to maintain our way of life. They clean our air and water, create a calming atmosphere for our emotions and satisfy our need for beauty.

This year’s restrictions mean no neighborhood block parties or school groups gathered around a seedling, dropping handfuls of soil into a hole.  Instead, we can read books about trees, summon our inner artist to draw or paint one, photograph our favorites, or simply take an appropriately socially-distanced walk to enjoy them. Even if you can only enjoy the view from a window, take a moment to appreciate all trees do for us: shade on a hot day, protection from winds, food for insects and animals, homes for birds, clean air, reduce harmful greenhouse gas, improve our views, increase our property values and even reduce our stress levels.

If self-isolation has you stressed, go outside and hug a tree.

Dawn Redwood (Metasequoia) is a favorite in the Mary Snoddy garden. I received it as a seedling at a plant swap in 2005, when it was the size of a pencil. It has grown quickly with no attention. In fall, the needles turn pumpkin-orange before they shed. The bark has a shaggy appearance.

The emerging feather-like foliage of Pond Cypress. Like its neighbor, the Dawn Redwood, this is a deciduous conifer. The limbs are spaced so perfectly that the structure is beautiful even when it is bare. Of all trees in the Snoddy garden, this one is the cats’ favorite. The Cypress family does very well in clay soil.

The Love of the Weird Leads Us Astray

Even experienced gardeners fall victim to plant lust. I learned a valuable lesson five years ago when I purchased an unfamiliar (to me) plant at a spring plant festival. I should have recognized danger when the seller identified the plant by a cute name (“Spotted Dinosaur Food”) and had no clue as to its genus and species. The innocent-looking plant resembled a miniature version of Gunnera, a gorgeous plant that thrives in the Pacific Northwest and will not survive in the heat of the southeast. Gunneras are known for their extremely large, exotic leaves.

The colloquial moniker of my quart-sized purchase meant a long search for its true identity. I am forever grateful for the internet image search results that allowed me to identify my new baby as Petasites japonicia ‘Variegatus’ (pronounced pet-ah-SIGH-tees), common name Variegated Butterbur or Sweet Coltsfoot. The second red flag waved in phrases like “vigorous spreader” and “large colonies.” Now, I wage an ongoing battle to keep mine in check.

Unusual, unimpressive clusters of green blooms arise in late winter, before leaves appear. The plant spreads aggressively by fleshy rhizomes rather than seeds. Their expansion should be restrained by a barrier such as metal edging, concrete or asphalt. Any tiny portion of the fleshy root will regenerate into a new plant. Butterbur grows in zones 3a to 8b. It goes completely dormant in cold weather. Leaves are fuzzy to touch. Deer leave them alone.

Taking its tendency to spread into account, Butterbur makes an impressive show. Leaves of the variegated forms may reach two feet in width. The non-variegated form may reach an impressive four feet in width. Both forms prefer shade to partial shade and plentiful moisture. Spread can be reduced somewhat by providing  lower moisture, but be prepared for wilting leaves in the hottest part of the year.  The leaves have an exotic, tropical appearance that pair well with hosta and ferns.

Plant scale is obvious when compared to my hand.

Variegation is apparent but not overwhelming.

Super Shrub for Shade

Spring has sprung, with colorful flowers galore. Blooms stand out even more when they are seen against a solid green backdrop. Think of those fabulous English gardens, surrounded by hedges of clipped yews. Here in the south, hedges are more likely to be boxwoods, cherry laurels, Leyland cypress or arborvitae. If you need an evergreen backdrop for shady areas, look no further than Aucuba japonica.

The yellow-splotched or gold-speckled Aucuba japonica (pronounced ah-KEW-bah jah-PON-ih-kah) inspires gardeners to love it or hate it. There doesn’t seem to be a middle ground. The haters bemoan its in-your-face brightness, using words like “gaudy” or even “obnoxious.” The lovers praise its ability to brighten shady areas. I prefer the non-variegated, solid green leaf variety. In both winter and summer, it provides a polite evergreen contrast to either flowers or bare tree trunks.

For vase arrangements, the gold-flecked forms pair well with yellow Chrysanthemum or yellow Nandina berries. The solid green varieties provide a nice contrast to any red or white blooms. Cut stems have a long vase life. You might even find that they have sprouted roots while they stood in water. These rooted babies can be planted outdoors during warm weather. Aucubas are either male or female. If there is a male in the vicinity, female shrubs bear large red berries (look like giant dogwood fruits) in winter. They are hardy in zones 7-9.

Aucubas are undemanding shrubs. They ignore pollution and salty air. They prefer moist soil with plentiful moisture, but will tolerate most soil types. They will  develop root rot in too wet conditions, so be stingy with the irrigation except during extended drought. Grow only in partial shade to full shade. Leaves scorch and turn black in full sun. Plants grow slowly to heights up to ten feet. Overgrown plants will withstand radical pruning, and will even branch when clipped. Such restrictive pruning should be done in late winter.

This female Aucuba holds onto a few of its berries, as the bloom buds swell prior to opening. These leaves appear to be variegated, but they are laden with pollen from neighboring plants. Ah-choo.

Virginia Bluebells are Ringing

Mertensia virginica (pronounced mer-TEN-see-ah ver-JIN-ih-kah ) is an unwieldy name for a beautiful spring wildflower. Better known as Virginia Bluebells or Virginia Cowslips, this southeastern native thrives in upstate South Carolina, where I live. If you think the Latin name belies the plant’s beauty, consider some of the other common names: Lungwort, Oysterleaf or Roanoke Bells.

Thin stems with rounded grayish-green leaves are topped by clusters of pink buds that open to sky blue, trumpet-shaped flowers. The blooms have five stamens spaced so far away from the pistil that individual flowers are unable to self-pollinate. Instead, butterflies play matchmaker, aided by an occasional bumblebee. The fertilized bloom produces four seeds. If left undisturbed, the seeds give rise to spreading colonies but are not considered invasive. They can also be propagated by division. The arching stems may reach up to 24 inches. They are hardy in growth zones 4 to 9.

Virginia Bluebells thrive in shade and moist soil that is high in organic matter. Pair them with Primroses or Trillium for a gorgeous spring display. They are classified as “ephemeral” which means “fleeting.” Plants appear, bloom, and then disappear as they go dormant until the following spring. This makes them an ideal pairing with hosta, since they will go dormant just as the hosta starts to gain size.

Japanese Rose, Kerria japonica

The color yellow seems to own spring. Daffodils, forsythia, winter jasmine and Carolina jasmine are all in bloom. There is a spot of dark gold (“school bus yellow”) appearing in the woodlands. Kerria japonica (KARE-ee-ah jah-PON-ih-kah), known as Japanese Rose, has clusters of deep yellow blooms against bright green stems. Flowers appear before leaves. Kerrias are tolerant of heavy shade and inhospitable soils. They are unappetizing to deer. Flower color is paler in deep shade. Flowering is best in partial shade.

Japanese Rose has an arching habit similar to Forsythia. The shrub may reach heights of six feet or more, with an equal spread. It spreads by suckering and may grow into a hedge when left alone. To prevent spread, remove all suckers as soon as they appear. If desired, the plant can be pruned down to the ground to reduce its height. Any pruning should be done immediately after bloom season since most blooms occur on prior year’s wood. Any later pruning will reduce flowers for the following season. Stems branch in their second year of growth.

The narrow leaves turn yellow before they drop in autumn. Stems remain green throughout the winter. They have a zigzag growth habit similar to Cercis (Redbud). The cultivar ‘Pleniflora’ (sometimes listed on tags as ‘Plena’) has double flowers and is worth seeking. Its growth habit is a little more upright than ‘Golden Guinea’ which has an attractive single flower. ‘Picta’ has variegated foliage and stays smaller than the non-variegated types but is prone to reversion. If any non-variegated stems appear, prune them out immediately.

Kerrias are easily propagated from softwood stem cuttings or by removing and replanting suckers. If you have a steep bank in your woodlands (ditch or gully), use fast-growing Kerria to reduce erosion and turn an eyesore into a feature.

Yellow Kerria pompoms glow against arching green stems. This photo was taken in deep shade at Hatcher Garden and Woodland Preserve, Spartanburg SC.

Wary turtles watch as I photograph the nearby Kerria japonica.

Golden Carolina Jasmine Vine

Back in January, I wrote about Confederate Jasmine. Today I want to spotlight Carolina Jasmine (Gelsemium  sempervirens), also known as Carolina Jessamine. This native vine bursts into bloom along roadsides in March, signalling spring is near. The fragrant, tubular flowers make a bright yellow splash as the vine scrambles over shrubs, across the ground and up trees. The vines may reach 20 feet in length. They climb by twining. Without support, it becomes more bush-like as a groundcover. It helps prevent erosion when planted on steep banks.

Carolina Jasmine will grow in sun or light shade. Flowering is much better in full sun. It is considered evergreen, but the narrow, glossy leaves tend to turn a bronze shade in cold weather. The vine will grow in zones 7-10, and is tolerant of salty air and moderate drought. The cultivar ‘Pride of Augusta’ has double flowers. Skip the fertilizer or you may have over-abundant vine and fewer leaves. If the plant gets woody with age, blooming only at its upper reaches, it can be renovated by a severe pruning. Take precautions to avoid skin exposure. The sap causes a rash in sensitive individuals (makes me break out similar to poison ivy).

All parts of the vine are toxic and can be fatal if ingested. Do not allow children to confuse it with honeysuckle. They can be poisoned  by its strychnine-related toxins if they suck the nectar from flowers. Neither deer nor rabbits browse Carolina Jasmine.

Gelsemium sempervirens has a cousin, Gelsemium rankanii (Swamp Jessamine) that blooms in both spring and fall. The blooms look the same, but Swamp Jessamine is not fragrant. Both are beautiful when grown on a fence or arbor. Carolina Jasmine is the state flower of South Carolina. The accompanying photos were taken early this morning, before the fog burned off. Those yellow flowers are like drops on sunshine.