Passionflower Pops In The Garden

When we first moved to our current property, I was excited to find Maypop plants (Passiflora incarnata, pronounced pas-si-FLOR-ah in-kar-NAH-tuh) growing. This native vine tolerates heat and drought. I found it in sunny areas as well as partly sunny areas, on inhospitable soils that receive no supplemental irrigation. Maypop is cold hardy in zones 5-9. It borders on aggressive in the Snoddy garden. I have tried to eradicate it in several unwanted locations, but it springs back to life from its deep roots. It grows very rapidly, and can be used as a groundcover.

Another common name for Maypop is Passionflower. The intricate flowers are purple and white, with a central structure that was used by Catholic priests in the 16th century to symbolize or describe the crucifixion of Jesus Christ, the passion. How did the common name arise? Well, if you step on one of the fruits, it “may pop.”

I allowed several vines to remain in the pollinator bed next to our orchard (okay, I got lazy and allowed them to flourish unchecked). The flowers are beautiful, unlike anything else. I was looking forward to eating the egg-size fruit, which is reputed to be delicious. The internal structure is similar to pomegranate. I kept an eye on them, ready to harvest as soon as the lime-green fruits turned yellow. Unfortunately, the wild creatures that live in our woodlands are not so patient. They removed the almost-ripe fruits from my vines. All but one, and that one lonely survivor showed teeth marks from either groundhogs, opossums, skunks, or rabbits. Sorry, I don’t share food with rodents.

Even without harvesting a single fruit, I am glad that I allowed the vines to remain. Their leaves have fed a number of different larvae and adult butterflies have flocked to the flowers. A common name for the Gulf fritillary butterfly is passion butterfly. While Maypop fruit is edible, the vine stems and leaves are toxic to humans, dogs, cats, and horses. Deer leave the vines untouched, but Japanese beetles devour the foliage. Despite its toxicity, Maypop would make a great addition to a pollinator garden, especially when planted in a container to eliminate root spread and given a trellis to support its climbing via tendrils.  One trusted university source says that the vines are extremely flammable and should not be planted near the home.

Maypop flower

Maypop fruit

Maypop thicket

Maypop fruit (NOT mine)

It's a Plant-Eat-Plant World

When the parasitic plant Dodder (genus Cuscuta) appears in the garden, it is easy to imagine that someone has dropped a package of yellow drinking straws, or that sprites in the fairy garden have been playing with spray cans of Silly String. The random threads of yellow or orange remind me of those nylon cords used to tie hay bales or pine needle bales. Dodder does not contain chlorophyll and must obtain all its nutrition from another plant, thus defining itself as a parasite. While some parasitic plants barely damage their hosts, Dodder can weaken or even kill a host plant by sucking away its moisture and nutrition.

Dodder starts life as a seed. Once it sprouts, this relative of the common morning glory goes seeking a sugar daddy. When a victim plant is targeted (ten days or less from germination), Dodder inserts a feeding tube, known botanically as a haustorium, to extract sustenance from the host. Once the feeding tube is in place, the roots detach from soil and it becomes completely dependent on the host. It twines around the food source, attaching new feeding tubes as it grows. The stems appear leafless, although tiny leaves are hidden along the rope-like stems.

Dodder has difficulty invading a woody companion, so most of its victims are soft stemmed, herbaceous plants. Several years ago, I spotted a vacant field of kudzu that had been covered with Dodder. It had spread from plant to plant, ensnaring the entire field. It looked like a bizzare mixed-media artwork. Preferred target plants range from clover to dahlias, petunias to potatoes.

Despite its pleasantly unique appearance (I mean, who doesn’t love Silly String?), if you see this plant anywhere in your garden, you should hasten to remove it by pruning away the affected branches of the host plant. This is a viciously competitive pest. If the host has been invaded in numerous places, the entire plant may need to be removed. There are no herbicides that will kill Dodder without killing the host plant as well. The tiny white or yellow flowers appear in late summer to early fall. The blooms produce pea-like fruits that contain four seeds.

Freezing temperatures kill Dodder, so it is less of a problem in locations with winter cold. In frost-free areas, it grows unchecked. In temperate areas where Dodder has grown in the past, be vigilant in spring to remove any new plants that germinate from last season’s seeds.

Dodder forming a net on host plant. Photo By Orangerind - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=124687004

An infestation of Dodder, entirely covering an area of plants of unknown variety.

By Salil Kumar Mukherjee - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=148639645

Proven Perennial Selections

Thanks to pleasantly warm temperatures and plentiful rains, my garden is thriving right now. So are the weeds, meaning that much of my outdoor time is spent in uprooting little monsters before they become big monsters.

Recently, I have received numerous inquiries from new gardeners, asking for plant recommendations. Every one of these gardeners has told me that they want to plant perennials only and no annuals. I get it. Annuals need to be replaced yearly, a recurring expense and effort. Yet, gardens benefit from the additional of a few annuals to add a lush appearance while the perennials are becoming established. Annuals tend to bloom throughout the season, while most perennials have a short flowering window. In my opinion, the most attractive gardens have it all: trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals, bulbs, vines, groundcovers.

If you are one of those who adamantly insist on perennials to the exclusion of all else, I am listing the Perennial Plant Association’s “Plant of the Year” winners for the last 27 years. Select from this list as you design your garden and you are likely to have a good experience. Finicky perennials don’t land here. I’ve killed a couple of the other featured plants (2020 and 2018), and removed a couple I didn’t cherish (2015, 2008, 1995). I am growing 2019’s Betony for the first time, and I am loving it so far. It is covered with pollinating insects from dawn to dusk.

2024 Phlox paniculata 'Jeana' (phlox)
2023 Rudbeckia ‘American Gold Rush’ (black-eyed Susan)
2022 Schizachyrium scoparium (little blue stem)
2021 Clinopodium nepeta subsp. nepeta Calamint
2020 Aralia cordata 'Sun King' Japanese spikenard 
2019 Stachys monieri 'Hummelo' Betony
2018 Allium ‘Millenium’ (ornamental onion)
2017 Asclepias tuberosa (butterfly milkweed)
2016 Anemone x hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’ (windflower)
2015 Geranium ‘Biokova’ (dwarf cranesbill, hardy geranium)
2014 Panicum virgatum ‘Northwind’ (tall switch grass)
2013 Polygonatum odoratum var. variegatum (Solomon’s seal)
2012 Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ (Siberian bugloss)
2011 Amsonia hubrichtii (blue star)
2010 Baptisia australis (blue false indigo)
2009 Hakonechloa macra, ‘Aureola’ (Japanese forest grass)
2008 Geranium ‘Rozanne’ (cranesbill, hardy geranium)
2007 Nepeta racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’ (catmint)
2006 Dianthus ‘Firewitch’ (cheddar pink)
2005 Helleborus x hybridus (Lenten rose)
2004 Athyrium niponicum var. pictum (Japanese painted fern)
2003 Leucanthemum x superbum ‘Becky’ (shasta daisy)
2002 Phlox paniculata ‘David’ (tall phlox)
2001 Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ (feather reed grass)
2000 Scabiosa ‘Butterfly Blue’ (pincushion flower)
1999 Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’ (black-eyed Susan)
1998 Echinacea purpurea ‘Magnus’ (purple coneflower)
1997 Salvia x sylvestris ‘Mainacht’ (aka ‘May Night’) (wood sage)
1996 Penstemon digitalis ‘Husker’s Red’ (beardtongue)
1995 Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian sage)
1994 Astilbe ‘Sprite’ (dwarf astilbe)
1993 Veronica ‘Sunny Border Blue’ (speedwell)
1992 Coreopsis verticillata ‘Moonbeam’ (threadleaf coreopsis)
1991 Heuchera micrantha var. diversifolia ‘Palace Purple’ (coral bells)
1990 Phlox stolonifera (creeping phlox)

Bumblebees LOVE the purple, bottlebrush flowers. Early in the morning, I find several fat bumblebees who have fallen asleep which visiting the flowers.

This trio of Stachys monieri ‘Hummelo’ sits next to a deck. The purple flowers have strong stems and the bright green foliage brightens the area.

Stinkhorn Mushrooms Live Up to the Name

A crowd gathered in the garden of a friend recently. I assumed they were admiring a new plant, so I hustled over to share in the appreciation. But no, this was no new perennial. Emerging from the mulch was a group of orange finger-like growths wearing dark brown caps. Their slightly naughty appearance spurred a lot of jokes. When I bent down to take a closer look, the nasty odor caught me by surprise. My brain churned a minute until I was able to dredge up its proper identity: Stinkhorn Mushroom. There are several forms of the stinkhorn fungus, ranging from rounded to those in front of my group, shaped like something you would see for sale in the classified section of an adult magazine. Common names for stinkhorn mushroom include Devil’s Dipstick (my favorite), Demon Fingers, and Dog Stinkhorn.

Stinkhorn mushrooms grow on rotting wood – decaying stumps or mulch, for instance. They can be found across the US, usually after a period of damp weather, The dark cap on top of the horn is a slimy mass of reproductive spores. This is where the “stink” in stinkhorn arises. The smell is described as sewage-like or compared to rotting meat. Unlike a normal fungus whose spores are spread by wind, the stinkhorn’s brownish cap atop the pinkish-orange horn contains a gooey collection of spores. These spores hitch a ride on insects who spread them about. The stench helps lure pollinators (those with a warped sense of smell, I assume) such as flies, ants, beetles, or bees. Insects who consume this odd mushroom then excrete the spores to begin a new generation.

Despite their evil appearance, stinkhorns are not poisonous and they do not transmit diseases to plants. If they appear in your garden, please leave them alone. They should not be treated with antifungals or herbicides. They are excellent decomposers. They only feed on dead plant tissue, so do not pose any threat to live, healthy plants. Stinkhorns are short-lived and offer amusement to garden visitors. Just don’t stand down wind.

These stinkhorns made a surprise appearance in a friend’s garden, just in time for a garden club meeting.

Blue-Eyed Grass as Feature or Edger

While weeding in a community garden last week, I encountered a plant I had written about several years ago, Blue-Eyed Grass. I have not grown it in my home garden. One of its common names is Bermuda Blue-Eyed Grass. After battling common Bermuda (aka wiregrass) in my lawn and flower beds, I was not about to introduce any plant that shared the name or other characteristics. I’ve been keeping a watchful eye on the specimens in the community garden for two years now, and they appear to be well-mannered. While diminutive in size, their impact is powerful. It’s time to reconsider my initial wariness.

Blue-Eyed Grass is Sisyrinchium angustifolium, pronounced sis-ee-RINK-ee-um an-gus-tee-FOH-lee-um. The species name has changed several times, but the genus Sisyrinchium remains consistent. Blue-Eyed Grass is a semi-evergreen, clump-forming native found across most of the eastern half of the country, in zones 4-9. Plants are undemanding. They grow in any texture soil and partial shade to full sun, preferring a consistently moist soil and average fertility. Rich soil or too much fertilizer results in lush leaf growth and few flowers. Keep mulch away from the base of the plant to avoid root rot.

They can be used singly as a specimen or as an edging. When flowering is complete, trim the spent heads to prevent unwanted spread. Blue-Eyed Grass looks at home in rock gardens, cottage gardens, woodland gardens, and sloped gardens. Bees and butterflies love their pollen and nectar, so they work well in pollinator gardens as well.

Mature clumps of Blue-Eyed Grass can reach up to 16 inches, although 12 inches is more common. The blue flowers appear in spring and summer, and are held above the foliage. Like other members of the Iris family, clumps should be divided every year or two to keep them looking healthy. The cultivar ‘Lucerne’ has larger flowers than unnamed varieties.

Sisyrinchium angustifolium, Blue-Eyed Grass, used as a specimen in a community pocket park.

Two Insects: One Harmful, One Valuable

I have never been afraid of insects (except for cockroaches, and “Palmetto Bugs” gross me out) until I had an unpleasant encounter while weeding last week. I was pulling small weeds around some shrubs and perennials, when a sudden, searing pain shot through my wrist. I drew back, expecting to see my attacker. Nothing obvious. I used the handle of my loppers to part the Iris foliage near the scene of the crime, and spotted a sporty-looking caterpillar – lime green with a tan and white splotch in the middle. It did not take much research to learn that I had encountered a saddleback caterpillar. Every website advised “avoid contact.”

Saddlebacks are adorned with poison-filled spines. I normally have a limited reaction to bites and stings but within two minutes, my fingers had swelled so much that I could not remove my wedding ring. By the time I reached the house, my entire forearm had doubled in size and was an angry red. Thanks to Google, I knew the treatment to follow, which I will share with you. I washed with soap and water, then used a piece of duck tape to pull out the spines. Next step was to ice the area and swallow a couple of Benadryl.

A closeup view of the poison-filled saddleback spines.

It is easy to overlook a Saddleback. They are only an inch long.

After the pain and swelling subsided (two hours), I went on a reconnaissance mission, intent on sending my attacker to caterpillar heaven. I spotted it, reached in with my clippers, and immediately brushed another one with the other arm. Repeated steps in paragraph two. Another two hours later, I donned heavy leather rose-handler gloves that extend up to my elbows, and revisited the doomed creatures. A careful examination revealed eleven of these evil beings on one Iris ensata. After recycling them, I checked all surrounding plants and found no more.

Saddleback caterpillars, Acharia stimulea, are native and found across the southeast. The caterpillars dine on a wide variety of plant materials, but are usually found in such small numbers that their damage is insignificant. The caterpillar spins itself a silken cocoon for winter before emerging in spring as a fuzzy brown moth with white spots. The mature moth has no trace of the lime green coloration which makes the caterpillar so distinctive. The moths are harmless to people.

Thus chastened by Mother Nature, I took a wide berth to the bees that chose to collect inside my new screen porch. The doors have not been installed yet, and these large black and yellow winged visitors could find their way inside the screen enclosure but could not find their way outside. They are scary-looking. I was surprised to learn that these were not some variety of Killer Hornets but instead harmless (non-stinging, non-biting) Hoverflies (family Syrphidae). The construction workers onsite told me that a common name is Broadcast Bee because they buzz loudly, “broadcasting their presence,” while they hover around humans’ heads as if to say, “Hey, look at me!”

There are thousands of Hoverfly species, of various sizes. Hoverflies have short, stubby antenna and a large set of wings for flying. The second set of wings is tiny, and are used for balance rather than propulsion. If you watch them carefully, you will see that hoverflies really do hang in the air with no apparent destination, while bees and wasps have an obvious direction to their flights. Hoverfly larvae look like the typical fly maggot, but their favorite meal is APHIDS! They are good pollinators, too. It is uncanny how much they look like something that would cause harm. You can encourage Hoverflies by planting nectar-rich, small flowers like Alyssum.

Asiatic Dayflower, a Beautiful Invader

There is an old-fashioned saying, “Pretty is as pretty does.” This is a cryptic way for mothers to tell their headstrong daughters that nice behavior makes them more attractive. The corollary is that a pretty girl with a nasty disposition is not attractive. Asiatic dayflower, Commelina communis, has a beautiful bloom but if an unsuspecting gardener allows just one to remain, plants soon appear everywhere. I repeat, everywhere.

Asiatic dayflower has two blue petals, one smaller white or light blue petal, and yellow stamens. Each flower lasts only one day. The stems are weak and floppy, but the flowers rise above them, to heights of around two feet. Plants are perennial in zones 5-8. They prefer moist soil and partial shade, but will grow in many other situations. It typically crops up along the edges of woodlands. In my garden, it likes to appear stealthily under the edges of tall, Southern Indica azaleas but the striking blue flowers reveal its hiding place.

This non-native wildflower is listed as invasive in several states. Plants are resistant to herbicides. Removal is best done by hand pulling after a rain, when soil is damp. In dry soil, the brittle stems break off and plants return quickly. Also, don’t pull them and toss them aside to die. The stems will throw roots from every leaf node and soon there will be a community, laughing (I assume) at efforts to eradicate. The flowers produce numerous seeds with a high germination rate.

This sneaky fella has concealed himself in the foliage of an Azalea.

Crinum Lily - Bold Flowers, Long-lived Bulbs

If your taste leans toward bold flowers, grow Crinum, a summer-flowering cousin to the Amaryllis. A southern passalong plant, these flowers are seen frequently on gravesites in the Bahamas. Bulbs are hardy in zones 7b to 10, at least. Flowers are white, pink, rose, or striped. White flowers with red stripes are commonly referred to as Milk and Wine lilies.

Mature plants will reach heights up to four feet. Bulbs are best planted in warm months, April through October, rather than fall or winter. They prefer full sun to part sun and moist soil, but will succeed in a wide range of conditions. Established plants will tolerate limited drought. They are not picky about soil texture or acidity.

When grown in moist, fertile soil Crinum bulbs can become quite large – occasionally up to twenty pounds! When bulbs need division, it is best to lift the entire clump, then separate offsets from the mother plant. Either replant or share the offsets. Newly divided bulbs may take a year or two to settle in and flower. The sturdy stems make good cut flowers. The flowers have a pleasant, clean fragrance.

As an initial investment, Crinum bulbs are more expensive than many other bulbs, but a single investment will provide years and years of enjoyment. Given their willingness to procreate, they are a cost-effective purchase.

 Bulbs are toxic to humans and pets. Deer do not bother them.

This Crinum was a gift from a regular customer at the nursery where I once worked. In a few years, it had multiplied into a large, handsome colony.

I planted these in a full-sun area with rich soil, in an area where the condensation from our air conditioner kept the soil moist. They grew to be giants. The largest was a little bigger than a softball but not quite as large a soccer ball. And it was HEAVY.

This beauty protested against her relocation by refusing to bloom for two years. This year, the gorgeous color and sweet fragrance made it worth the wait.

Winter Daphne for Cool Weather Fragrance

The rest of the US is facing a wave of frigid weather, but in the deep south, warm temperatures have brought gardeners outdoors, where we are enjoying the scents and sights of Forsythia and all the sprig-flowering bulbs. The sweet scent of Daphne wafts over it all.

Daphne odora (pronounced DAF-nee oh-DOH-rah) or Winter Daphne is an evergreen shrub that grows to heights up to six feet in zones 7-9. In late winter, its rose and white flowers have a heavenly fragrance that makes gardeners forgive its propensity to die suddenly, without warning (known as the “Daphne Death Dance” among gardeners who have loved and lost it). Plant it in partial shade in moist, neutral pH soil that is very well drained and has plenty of organic matter. It lives longest when sited on a slope that ensures good drainage. It also does well in a container if sited in a protected area. ‘Aureo-marginata’ is a variegated form. Prune leggy plants after flowering is complete to keep them compact and attractive.

All parts of the plant are poisonous to humans

Daphne odora in bloom. Special thanks for this image to shell_ghostcage via Pixabay photosharing.

Ajuga

Few perennials look great through the entire year. In the Mary Snoddy garden, a patch of Ajuga (pronounced ah-JOO-gah) has survived all manner of abuse: being trampled underfoot during our home renovation, record-breaking rain, record-breaking cold, full sun in what used to be full shade, and general disrespect. It does not look great, but I marvel at the fact it survived at all. We have had two days of warm sun, and it is pushing out fresh new leaves.

Ajuga reptans is an easily grown, aggressive, short groundcover. It is available in shades of bright chartreuse, deepest burgundy or chocolate, and a lovely sage green, white, rose combination. Textures vary from fine blades (‘Chocolate Chip’) or broad leaf (‘Black Scallop’). Newer cultivars broaden color choices to bronze, yellow, orange, and red. Look for the Feathered Friends™ series for something truly unusual.

Ajugas thrive in partial sun or shade. Blue flowers in spring are a bonus. These undemanding groundcovers spread quickly, giving rise to some gardeners’ assessment of the plant as invasive. (It is a member of the mint family). It will grow and even thrive in many situations where other plants, including grass, won’t grow: deep shade, dry soil, or under Black Walnut trees. It will tolerate minor foot traffic. Plants can be so vigorous that congested areas die. Prevent this by division. Ajuga is resistant to damage from deer and rabbits. Other than dieback from congestions, their only problem is root-rot when placed in wet soils.

Ajuga reptans ‘Burgundy Glow’ has a lovely pink and white variegation that lights up daker areas in the shade garden.

Fine leaf Ajuga reptans ‘Chocolate Chip’ softens the edges of a brick walkway.

These Snowflakes are Not Meant for Snowmen

Leucojum (pronounced loo-KOH-jum) is an elegant flower with delicate, drooping white blooms that look like petticoats. Spring Snowflake (L. vernum) flowers in very early spring. Summer Snowflake (L. aestivum) flowers mid-spring. Each tepal (think petal) has a blotch of green on it on its tip. Strap-like foliage resembles that of daffodils and averages 12 to 24 inches in length.

Snowflakes do well in part shade to full shade, and perform well under deciduous trees. They prefers dry soil when dormant, with added moisture when in flower. They are tolerant of heavy clay soils. The flowers are all held on the same side of the stem, so they lean gracefully to the side. They have the same gelatinous sap as daffodils, so should not be combined with other flowers in a vase.

Snowflakes look super when planted in large drifts, in woodland settings, or in rock gardens. Bulbs will multiply into good sized clumps. They prefer to remain undisturbed. Congestion doesn’t seem to bother them as long as they receive adequate nutrition from the soil. Add a sprinkle of lime and a little fertilizer each spring to keep them happy. The bulbs can be underplanted in a bed of Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon) or other shade-loving groundcovers.

Deer, rabbits, and voles avoid Snowflakes. They are not damaged by juglone, so can be planted under Black Walnut (Juglans nigra) trees. Bulbs and leaves are poisonous. Do not eat.

A third species, Leucojum auctumnle flowers in late summer to early fall. It is less popular that the spring-flowering types and is difficult to find in garden centers.

Plan Now for Fall Crocus & Colchichum

I was thrilled to see the first evidence of Crocus foliage pushing their way out of the frozen soil today. Crocus is the earliest bulb (corm, really) to flower in the Mary Snoddy garden, usually in February. At times they are frosted by ice or snow, which doesn’t seem to dampen their cheerful demeanor one bit.

As much as I enjoy these harbingers of spring, I prefer the Crocus that flower in October and November. You will notice that I did not say “Fall-flowering Crocus” or “Autumn Crocus.” There is a good reason why. There are two different flowers which bloom at the same time and look very similar to the unpracticed eye. One produces saffron threads, a culinary delight. The other can kill you if you eat any part of it. Seriously.

Fall-flowering Crocus, Crocus sativus, pronounced CROW-cuss suh-TAI-vuss, is also known as Saffron Crocus. It is grown for saffron spice, as noted above, but the orange-red stigmas are also used for dye. They will stain fingers and clothing. This plant sends up narrow, grass-like foliage before the flowers appear. Plants are small, usually reaching about six inches when they are in flower. C. sativus is cold-hardy in zones 5-8. They prefer a neutral to slightly alkaline soil in full sun. They are occasionally damaged by voles or rabbits.

Saffron Crocus

Saffron Threads

Autumn Crocus is Colchicum autumnale, pronounced COAL-chik-um aw-tum-NAH-lay. It is taller (eight to ten inches) and its blooms are larger than C. sativus. It appears as a naked bloom, with no foliage at the time of flowering. Weak foliage appears in spring. It is more cold-tolerant (zones 4-10) than C. sativus, will tolerate a wider range of pH, and will withstand a bit more shade. The large pink or purple flowers look fantastic when they appear above a short groundcover like dwarf mondo grass, which also helps support the weak stems. All parts of the plant are highly toxic to people and pets. Deer and rabbits will not touch them.

Colchicum

Leafless Autumn Crocus

Tiny C. sativus is planted 2-3 inches deep. Larger C. autumnale is planted 4-6 inches deep. Both these corms are small and flat, and look best when planted in groups or drifts. They will naturalize when planted in the lawn. Pollinators are attracted to the flowers.

Mushroom Brains

I found a brain while I was walking through my woodlands this week. At least I thought it was a brain. Or a pile of cooked egg noodles, which seemed just as unlikely as a brain, since civilization is at least a half mile away in all directions. Research indicated that it was a natural growth in the genus Sparassis, an edible fungus known as cauliflower mushroom. The very helpful www.MushroomExpert.com provided a key on how to distinguish the various species, but also described a “look-alike” species, Podoscypha aculeata.

My particular specimens (I found another nearby) are Sparassis americana. A fairly rare fungus, it sprouts from the roots of pine trees, not trunks, and is an indicator of brown root rot below the surface. This means I need to keep an eye on the host trees, and will have them removed when declining health warrants.

Www.Foragerchef.com describes the cauliflower mushroom as “one of the most delicious wild mushrooms you can hunt…a choice edible species.” The authors give specific instructions on cleaning (cumbersome process with lots of references to hidden insect larvae) and several recipes, ranging from soups to cauliflower “steaks.”

In the interest of science and from innate curiosity, I made a personal sacrifice for the collective benefit of my readers. As a result, I can tell you that there are marked differences in definitions of “delicious.” Edible, yes, but not something I would praise as a delicacy.

If you decide to forage for these or any other wild mushrooms, please be certain of the identity before you consume them. Several common mushrooms have deadly look-alikes.

Cauliflower mushroom looks like a pile of cooked, curly egg noodles.

The angle of this photo is deceptive. The fungus is larger than a softball.

Muhly Grass for Autumn Color

Autumn colors are orange, red, yellow, rust…and pink? Across the southeast, Pink Muhly Grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris, pronounced mew-len-BERG-ee-ah or mew-len-BER-jee-uh) is reaching its peak. We do not usually think of grass as a flowering plant, but there is no mistaking the decorative value of pink Muhly. Its feathery plumes float like clouds of pink cotton candy. A white-flowered form is available also but is harder to find than the pink variety. White varieties bloom a little later than pink forms.

 Mulhy is easy to grow in full sun, zones 6-9. Native to North America, it will grow in sandy, rocky, or clay soil. Avoid constantly wet soils. It is not troubled by insects or diseases, and is highly resistant to deer damage. Plants grow up to four feet tall and  three feet wide. Established plants are heat and drought tolerant. The narrow leaves sway gracefully in breezes. Flowering begins in autumn and is followed by attractive seed heads that persist through winter, providing food for birds. The purplish-pink form ages to a creamy tan color and the white form ages to an attractive gray.

 A standalone plant is attractive, but mass plantings of Muhly are gorgeous. Two pairings that are particularly attractive: Pink Muhly with purple-leaf Loropetalum,  or White Muhly paired with purple-flowered Mexican Salvia (Salvia leucanthemum).

 Plants may need to be divided every three years or so to avoid dieback in the centers. Give clumps a cleanup cut in late winter or early spring, before new growth starts, but do not cut so short that the crown is damaged. While some other grasses may become invasive, Muhly is well behaved and makes a perfect addition to the low maintenance garden.

Pink Muhly Grass used as an edging

Blooms look like cotton candy

The Chelsea Chop

What is “The Chelsea Chop,” a term I hear from professional garden-tenders? In simple terms, it is a mid-season cutback for flowering perennial plants. It earned its catchy moniker in the UK, where border plants are pruned hard around the same time as London’s famous Chelsea Flower Show (May).

American weather, soil type, and growing season differs from lands across the pond, but a mid-summer cutback is a great idea for many plants, including Yarrow (Achillea), Coneflowers (Echinacea), Artemisia, Catnip (Nepeta), Bee Balm (Monarda), Salvia, and Gaura. If a perennial blooms well during spring and fall but takes a flowering siesta in the hottest part of the summer, it may be a good candidate for the chop. Pruned perennials will often branch and produce new buds and leaves, with a rounded, tidy appearance. Annual flowers do not respond as well as perennials. I applied the Chelsea Chop to annual Spider Flower (Cleome) last year and was left with a bed of headless stems that neither branched nor rebloomed.

When orange Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) sheds its flowers, a cutback by half will often spur a second bloom that rivals the first, and new foliage looks fresher than older, tattered leaves and stems. Butterfly larvae seem to prefer the tender new stems over tougher, aged ones.

When pruned in mid-June (upper SC area), fall-flowering Aster, Joe Pye Weed, Chrysanthemum, and NY Ironweed (Vernonia) will bloom about two weeks later than unpruned plants and will have smaller but more numerous flowers. Pinching out the growing tips of tall Sedums (“Autumn Joy” and the like) will cause branching and prevent their tendency to fall open at their centers during peak fall bloom time. With few exceptions, I halt serious perennial surgical reductions on July 4. Later pruning may remove flower buds or cause a growth spurt of tender growth that will later be damaged by early cold spells.

An exception to this timing recommendation is my treatment of Daylily (Hemerocallis). These reliable bulbs flower during the hottest part of the year. When the flower show is over, the foliage starts to brown and dry into an unattractive, stringy blob. I do not have the time to remove each brown leaf individually, so once all flowers have faded, I gather the foliage of each clump and decapitate it, leaving four to six inches. Then, I give the buzz-cut plants a drink of liquid fertilizer. While they will not repeat flowering, they will push out new, bright green foliage that looks good all the way into fall. This approach does not seem to weaken the plant or reduce flowering in future years.

Rather than performing a wholesale chop-chop-chop on everything, I follow advice I read years ago in a wonderful book, The Well-Tended Perennial Garden: The Essential Guide to Planting and Pruning Techniques by Tracey DiSabato-Aust (Published by Timber Press in 2017, also available in Kindle version). I cut back half the plant in June and leave the other half to flower on its original schedule. Sometimes I prune the perimeter of the plant and leave the center untouched, and sometimes (when I’m feeling especially patient) I select every other stem in the overall bunch to reduce. When the latter approach is done carefully, an observer does not notice any pruning has been done. See the accompanying before and after photos of Shasta Daisy ‘Becky’ for an example. The removal of roughly one third of the bloom stems is unnoticeable. If the half-chop method is used, remove spent flowers from the early flowering, unpruned stems or the plant may put its energy into seed-making and not produce a second round of blooms. 

As tempting as it is to use a hedge-trimmer for a quick pruning job, the best results come from pruning individual stems back with hand pruners, cutting just above where a leaf joins the stem. The prune-to-a-leaf method eliminates naked stem orphans that will darken and wither, and may offer an opportunity for disease entry.

All plants look better when dead flowers are removed. But please, remove the entire stem down to the first leaf or even shorter. Do not snap the flowers off and leave headless stems. That’s just creepy.

Shasta Daisy before Chop

Shasta Daisy after Chop

Elderberry (Sambucus)

Along partially shaded roadsides, Elderberry is putting on its summer show. Elderberry, Sambucus canadensis (pronounced sam-BYOO-kus can-uh-DEN-sis) is an American native that thrives in moist soils but will survive in wet or dry locations, acidic to neutral soils, full sun to mostly shade. It seems to prefer areas that have previously been clear cut, such as under power lines. Mature plants grow up to 12 feet tall and 12 feet wide. This deciduous shrub is hardy in zones 4 to 9. It is very heat tolerant. If suckers are not removed, shrubs spread by underground runners to form dense thickets. Birds, especially quail, like to nest in their branches.

Flat-topped clusters of white Elderberry flowers are favored by bees and butterflies. The flowers are followed by blue-black berries. According to Texas A&M University, up to 45 species of songbirds eat the fruit, as well as deer and other mammals. Berries are toxic to humans if eaten raw but once cooked can be enjoyed in jelly, pie, or other desserts. Do not allow horses to eat any part of the plant. Both flowers and fruits can be used to make elderberry wine. I’m told that it is delicious, but I can’t get past the toxic-when-raw issue.

Aside: In the delightful play or movie Arsenic and Old Lace, elderberry wine conceals the poison used to permanently relieve unsuspecting visitors of loneliness. A couple of movie versions exist. I recommend the 1943 release, directed by Frank Capra and starring Cary Grant. It is set on Halloween night, but is an enjoyable watch any month of the year.

Plant breeders have elevated the desirability of this common roadside plant by introducing non-green foliage varieties. Proven Winners offers Black Lace® Elderberry a finely cut plant with pink flowers against purple-black foliage. Affordable price, fast growth, and undemanding nature makes it a great alternative to Japanese Maple. I managed to walk away from Black Lace®, but I simply couldn’t resist another Proven Winners introduction, Lemony Lace® Elderberry. Its finely cut, chartreuse foliage looks fabulous in a grouped planting or standalone. Both these Lace cultivars are smaller (5 feet for Lemony Lace® and 8 feet for Black Lace®) than their wilder cousins, which means they could be grown in containers. The reduced size comes at a cost. They are less heat tolerant, and only recommended as far south as Zone 7. Both are “deer resistant.” We shall see…

Elderberry flowers and buds

Elderberry shrub growing on an uncultivated roadside

Check out the color and texture of Lemony Lace — Be still my heart!

Elderberry fruit cluster
Image by EM80 from Pixabay

A typical location to find wild Elderberry: underneath power lines

Lesser-known Hydrangea, a Garden Star

On the evening before Mothers’ Day, I was forced to pick up a few items at the big blue retail store. Yep. Saturday night at Wally World. Lucky me. As I sat in my car, summoning up my strength for the task ahead, I witnessed blue and pink orbs floating from the store’s doorway. They disappeared into cars in the parking lot. When I donned my eyeglasses (don’t fret - I wore them while I was driving), those blue and pink orbs materialized into giant Hydrangea flower heads atop plants that were on their way to be a Mothers’ Day present the next day, no doubt. Wonder how many of those will survive to bloom again next year?

There is much more to the genus Hydrangea than those big pink or blue mopheads, Hydrangea macrophylla. A lesser known but marvelous species is the native Hydrangea arborescens. The common name for this beauty, Smooth Hydrangea, has been displaced by Mountain Hydrangea in a nod to its origins. In the wild, H. arborescens is a lacecap, but in the 1960s, a mophead type was discovered growing in Illinois. It was subsequently introduced to the market as ‘Annabelle.’

‘Annabelle’ remains immensely popular. It is hardy in zone 4 to 9, withstands more sun and needs less water than the large-leaf mophead varieties, and has huge (up to 12 inches across) white flowers from summer through fall. The only downside is weak stems that do not support the giant flowers, especially when rain increases the weight of the already-heavy flowers. Sadly,  puny stems allow the beautiful flowers to droop into mud.

‘Incrediball’ was introduced in 2009 as an improved ‘Annabelle,’ with mature size of 5 ft tall and 5 ft wide. It shared all the same positive qualities as its predecessor but with much stronger stems and even larger flower heads – up to basketball-size! Soon, non-white cultivars followed as introductions from Dr. Thomas Ranney of NC State University and Spring Meadow Nursery. Here are a few newer choices:

·‘Incrediball™ Blush’ has soft pink flowers; 5 ft tall x 5 ft wide. ·‘Invincibelle™ Ruby’ has deep red flowers; 4 ft tall x 4 ft wide. ·‘Invincibelle™ Spirit’ has pink flowers; 4 ft tall x 4 ft wide. ·‘Invincibelle™ Spirit II’ has pink flowers that age to a gorgeous green; 4 ft tall x 4 ft wide.
·‘Invincibelle Mini Mauvette®’ has mauve/purple flowers; 3 ft tall x 3 ft wide.
·‘Invincibelle Wee White® has white blooms; 2½ ft tall x 2½ ft wide.
·‘Invincibelle Limetta® has greenish flowers; 4 ft tall x 4 ft wide.
·‘Invincibelle Garnetta® has ruby flowers; 2½ ft tall x 2½ ft wide. (Proven Winners website describes the color as ruby-red, not garnet. Weird, huh?)

Site H. arborescens in half sun to mostly sun. Shrubs in more sun will require more irrigation than their sisters planted in shadier locations. All bloom on new wood, so they are resistent to bud death due to late freezes. Prune hard in late winter, cutting stems back to 6-12 inches just before new growth starts. Dried blooms can be removed at any time and used in flower arrangements. The dried flowers can be spray painted to match any décor – I’m partial to deep burgundy or silver, for use around the holidays.

Unlike Hydrangea macrophylla, Hydrangea arborescens do not change colors when soil is altered. White flowers stay white. Pink flowers stay pink. Fertilize once in spring, and provide sufficient irrigation to prevent plant wilt without creating a boggy soil. Plants prefer neutral to acidic soil. If in doubt, check the grow zones for your preferred cultivar. Most are hardy in zones 4-9.

Incrediball™ flower

Invincibelle Spirit™ flower

The Strange World of Plant Galls

I discovered two strange growths on trees in the Mary Snoddy garden this month. Neither were known to me, so I turned to professional sources: Google for the first, and a retired Extension Agent for the second.

Several Oak (Quercus) trees had round, dimpled growths that resembled pale green golf balls. Some were attached to stems, others to leaves. A Google image search identified them as Oak Galls. Galls are a tree’s reaction to damage caused by intruders such as wasps, mites, aphids, or flies. Identifying names include Wooly Oak Galls, Jumping Oak Galls, Spongy Oak Apple Galls, Wool Sower Galls, Roly-poly Galls, Oak Apple Wasp Galls, Gouty Oak Galls, and others. They vary in appearance based on the irritant that generated the tree’s reaction. They do not injure the health of the host tree.

My amateur assessment is that my tree’s galls were caused by a gall wasp, a tiny brown wasp that is not a stinging danger to people. Before they die, the wasps lay eggs in oak tree buds. Eggs hatch into grubs which then produce enzyme secretions, prompting the tree to isolate the damage by forming the gall. Interesting, but I wanted to know what was inside the galls, so I did what any inquiring mind would do. I sliced a couple open. Inside was a fibrous material with a tiny dense section in the middle. Quite a letdown. I was expecting a grub, a baby wasp, or something other than just a gooey orange dot. THEN I got out my handy hand magnifier. There was a tiny white grub inside one. The other was grub-free. Then I noticed the hole on #2, which was evidently an escape hatch. Fascinating stuff, even if it does make one’s spouse hesitant to eat food off the kitchen counter that was used for the gall dismemberment.

Oak leaf gall

Interior view

Interior view

Exit hole

 The other weird finding in my woods were firm fleshy growths attached to several tree stems. They looked almost like a rose carved from stone. I noticed these a few weeks earlier, when they were a bright yellow color. At the time, I thought they were flower buds of some sort. In this case, Google was of no help so I turned to Mr. John Vining, a retired Polk (NC) Country Extension Director who readily identified my mystery growth as a leaf gall and recommended that I remove the gnarly looking things and burn them or bag them for household trash disposal. He further identified the host plant as Horse Sugar, Symplocos tinctoria. Crushed Horse Sugar leaves have a pleasant smell. For the benefit of readers and in the interest of science (and because I have a goat-like tendency to taste everything) I nibbled a leaf. It was slightly sweet, but not a plant I would choose for a snack. But I’m not a horse – just a curious gardener who is thankful for the enormous knowledge base of state Extension agents. Thanks, Mr. Vining!

Silvery Artemisia Makes a Deer-Proof Companion

The silvery threads of Artemisia make other plants look better by contrast. It can also play peacemaker between flower colors that may clash. This perennial shrub is hardy in zones 6-9. It will grow to three feet in height, and up to four feet wide in its first season. Any limbs that touch soil may sprout roots, resulting in an increasing clump. It also spreads by rhizomes.

Like other plants with gray foliage, Artemisia (pronounced ar-tem-EE-zee-uh) is heat-tolerant and drought-tolerant but suffers from wet soils or high humidity. ‘Powis Castle’ cultivar is reputed to be more humidity-tolerant than others. It has a finely cut foliage that looks super when paired with needled evergreens or purple foliage (think Loropetalum or Purple Heart). Shrubs may have yellow blooms, but flowering is rare and doesn’t add much to the overall appearance. A newish cultivar, ‘Seafoam,’ has neat curlicue foliage. I plan to trial its humidity resistance in the Mary Snoddy garden as soon as I find it in a local nursery. Artemisia foliage can be dried and used for wreaths or in flower arrangements.

Personal experience taught me that this is a plant that thrives on neglect. Initially, I planted ‘Powis Castle’ in a partly sunny spot and watered it during hottest days. By the end of its first season, it looked tatty, not at all attractive. Year two was even worse – long stems with limited (brown, nasty) foliage. In frustration, I pulled it out of the ground, tossed it on the gravel pile next to my greenhouse, and forgot it. Imagine my surprise three weeks later, when I realized that it had returned from the brink of death and was thriving atop a hot, dry gravel pile. Lesson learned. I planted a pair of future purchases in horrible, red fill dirt on top of a slope and added no supplemental irrigation. They flourished.

‘Powis Castle’ will survive in any soil type, and prefers a neutral to alkaline soil. Mature plants may open up in the center and look rather rangy. Limited pruning can be done any time plants are actively growing. They withstand hard pruning and will regenerate into dense shrubs. Important: Do NOT prune in late fall or winter. Wait until active new growth starts in spring before whipping out the loppers. Plants pruned in winter are likely to die.

Artemisia is not grown for its pleasant fragrance. Crushed foliage or cut stems exude a strong smell. This odor is what makes deer avoid it. Plants are untroubled by insects or diseases.

You will notice that I have not provided a common name for Artemisia. Well, here goes: Wormwood.

Soft, fern-like foliage of Artemesia

Artemesia paired with Cryptomeria globosa ‘Nana’

I threw this Artemesia onto a gravel pile. Instead of dying, it became a robust, healthy plant. Here it shares space with Lambs Ears, a creeping Sedum, and Eucalyptus.

Proceed with Caution When Planting Horsetail Rush

Equisetum, commonly known as Horsetail or Scouring Rush, has an other-worldly look. There are no leaves. Stems are hollow and bright green, and have narrow horizontal, black joints that faintly resemble bamboo. Other common names include Bottlebrush, Foxtail, Pinetop, Snakegrass, and Dwarf Bamboo. Fossils of Equisetum show its existence 350 million years ago.

Like some bamboo, Equisetum is a serious spreader. It loves wet soil, even standing water up to four inches deep, but will also grow in dryer soils. Be certain that you want it in your garden, because it is impossible to eradicate once established. It will grow in zones 5-10 and under any light conditions: full sun to full shade. Plants put down deep roots (rhizomes up to six feet in length).

Equisetum (pronounced ek-wis-SEE-tum) does not flower. Unbranched stems, up to four feet in height, are either sterile or non-sterile (reproductive). Non-sterile stems have brown scales while the sterile stems have green or no scales. The reproductive stems produce spores on a cone. Stems contain silica, creating a tough, rough texture that was formerly used to scour cooking vessels, leading to the common name Scouring Rush.

This plant can be grown in a container to prevent its spread. It makes a striking pond-side plant and a dandy resting place for dragonflies. It is highly deer resistant.

A patch of Equisetum growing near a bog area.

The black horizontal bands around Equisetum stems.
Image by Annette Meyer from Pixabay