Warm Yarrow to Brighten a Cold Day

The US is blanketed by cold weather this week. My Camellia japonica was covered with flowers. Now they are blackened and sad. I visited my photo files to find something to make me remember the warmth of summer, and ran across pictures of Yarrow.

Yellow Yarrow is a heat tolerant plant beloved by pollinators.

Achillea millefolium (ack-uh-LEE-ah mill-ee-FOH-lee-um), commonly known as Yarrow, is an easily grown, heat-tolerant perennial for full sun. It has finely divided grayish foliage. Almost leafless stems terminate in flat-topped clusters of many (20 to 25, on average) small blooms. The straight species can become weedy or invasive, but the hybrids sold in garden centers are mostly sterile. Flowers come in pastels, yellow, white, red, purple, and orange shades. Yellow is the most common color and it ages well. ‘Moonshine’ has lemon-yellow flowers.

Yarrow has a long bloom period, from summer to frost. Plants can be deadheaded to encourage more flowering. If they become messy or foliage begins to brown or look tattered, an aggressive cutback will spur new growth. Yarrow likes a neutral pH and well-drained soil. While easy to grow in loam or sand, clay soils should be amended with organic matter to increase drainage and avoid excessive moisture that may lead to root rot.

Yarrow is a great plant for pollinator gardens, xeric gardens, and evening gardens, where the gray foliage remains visible at dusk. It mixes and mingles well with other plants, and can be sprinkled among cottage garden beds as a see-through plant. Deer avoid them.

This photo was taken in mid-June of last year, in the botanical gardens of Spartanburg Community College. The fine flowers of pale yellow Yarrow pair nicely with the bold flowers of Rudbeckia and the red accent of Salvia. A gray Artemisia provides contrast, like a condiment adding spice to a bland meal.

Identification by Elimination: Leucothoe

Most of the time, plant identification is pretty straight forward even for those of who were not trained in taxonomy. Sometimes, however, identification requires research. For the last three years, I have been enjoying the large, evergreen shrubs that appear along the creek banks of my home. They have lovely arching foliage, reddish new growth, and drooping clusters of white flowers in spring. Based on my knowledge as a former garden nursery employee, I thought they were Leucothoe, pronounced loo-KOH-thoh-ee. But which one? Are they Highland Doghobble, Leucothoe fontanesiana? Or Coastal Doghobble, Leucothoe axillaris? Or even Florida Leucothoe, now Agarista populifolia but formerly Leucothoe populfolia?

When I’m having difficulty with identification, I have learned to consult NC State University’s plant sheets and Clemson University’s Home & Garden Info fact sheets. The Georgia Native Plant Society, Virginia Native Plant Society, and the Southern Piedmont Natural History Facebook pages provide invaluable information. I cross reference everything I find online with the information contained in my favorite gardening book, Dirr’s Encyclopedia of Trees and Shrubs, by Michael A. Dirr. This is a fabulous resource and a must-have for everyone who aspires to be a serious gardener. There are so many post-it notes extending from my copy, it looks like a neon hedgehog.

First, I examined the common factors of the three possibilities. All are natives in the Ericaceae family, meaning they enjoy damp shade and acid soil like other ericaceous family members (blueberries, azaleas). The new growth on all three is a shiny pink-to-bronze color.  Then, I compared the differences in an attempt to identify by elimination.

First to go was Highland Doghobble or Mountain Doghobble. It has an average height of six feet, which kept it in the running. Comparing photos of their flowers to photos of my plants, I could not discern a difference. Both have creamy clusters of white flowers held in the stem axils. But NC State horticultural info says this plant grows in USDA cold hardiness zones 4-6. My property lies in zone 7b. (Zone 8 after the recently updated zone maps were released. I’m having trouble adapting.) Buh-bye.

Candidate number two is Coastal Doghobble. These grow in cold hardiness zones 5-9, but are described as slow growing with a mature height up to four feet. The cold weather foliage is bronze to burgundy. No, no, and no. Mine stay a nice rich green throughout the coldest months. I have cut them to ground level and they grow rapidly to six feet or more.

Which leaves Florida Leucothoe, Agarista populifolia. Hardiness zones 7-9 are a match, as is the mature size of 8-12 feet. New growth is coppery red but leave remain green through winter. The point of confusion for me is with the flowers. Those on my shrubs were a perfect match to the photographs on a couple of sites but not a visual match on other sites describing the same plant.  I am going to make an assumption that my garden is hosting Florida Leucothoe. Take a look at the photos below. If you disagree with my identification, feel free to drop me an email at mary@marysnoddy.com.

While you might assume that the outstanding characteristic of this plant is the lovely spring flowers or the evergreen foliage (works well in cut flower arrangements) or the ease of culture, the best thing is that deer won’t touch it. While the common name Doghobble was derived from its tendency to develop thickets so dense that dogs cannot run through them, it could have just as easily been Dogkill. While bees and butterflies love the flowers, the plant is extremely toxic to people, dogs, cats, and horses. Ingesting as few as two leaves can lead to coma and death. Deer avoid it, even when food sources are scarce.

Leucothoe flower closeup

Leucothoe in spring

Note the arching form

Resurging after severe pruning

Bronze new growth

The Tractor Seat Plant

“Tractor Seat Plant” is the descriptive common name of Farfugium japonicum. The variegated (yellow spots) form has the common name “Giant Leopard Plant.”

Farfugium (pronounced far-FEW-gee-um) is hardy in zones 7-9. The yellow flowers are incidental to the foliage, exotic-looking leaves so shiny that they appear polished. Plants are not picky as to soil acidity. They want partial shade and moist soil, and are ideally sited along streams or near water features. They also make impressive container plants if the gardener provides plentiful irrigation. The large rounded to kidney-shaped leaves wilt pitifully when they need water. Plants die to the ground in winter, then pop up in spring and bloom in late summer to fall before they go dormant again.

Opinions vary as to whether solid or variegated leaves are the prettiest. (I favor the solid green.) The clumps of foliage look especially good against a solid brick or rock wall. Give plants plenty of space. Mature plants may reach four feet tall, three feet across. Individual leaves may reach impressive widths of 18 inches, held aloft on 3–4-foot stalks that rise directly from the ground. Plants are propagated by division. ‘Bad Hair Day’ and ‘Crispatum’ cultivars have a ruffled edge to the leaves.

Farfugium is rarely troubled by disease or insects, although slugs sometimes attack. They are moderately deer resistant.

A young Farfugium,. When mature, it will shade the fairy statue like a large umbrella.
Photo by Suzanne Leone. Used with permission.

Silvery Artemisia Makes a Deer-Proof Companion

The silvery threads of Artemisia make other plants look better by contrast. It can also play peacemaker between flower colors that may clash. This perennial shrub is hardy in zones 6-9. It will grow to three feet in height, and up to four feet wide in its first season. Any limbs that touch soil may sprout roots, resulting in an increasing clump. It also spreads by rhizomes.

Like other plants with gray foliage, Artemisia (pronounced ar-tem-EE-zee-uh) is heat-tolerant and drought-tolerant but suffers from wet soils or high humidity. ‘Powis Castle’ cultivar is reputed to be more humidity-tolerant than others. It has a finely cut foliage that looks super when paired with needled evergreens or purple foliage (think Loropetalum or Purple Heart). Shrubs may have yellow blooms, but flowering is rare and doesn’t add much to the overall appearance. A newish cultivar, ‘Seafoam,’ has neat curlicue foliage. I plan to trial its humidity resistance in the Mary Snoddy garden as soon as I find it in a local nursery. Artemisia foliage can be dried and used for wreaths or in flower arrangements.

Personal experience taught me that this is a plant that thrives on neglect. Initially, I planted ‘Powis Castle’ in a partly sunny spot and watered it during hottest days. By the end of its first season, it looked tatty, not at all attractive. Year two was even worse – long stems with limited (brown, nasty) foliage. In frustration, I pulled it out of the ground, tossed it on the gravel pile next to my greenhouse, and forgot it. Imagine my surprise three weeks later, when I realized that it had returned from the brink of death and was thriving atop a hot, dry gravel pile. Lesson learned. I planted a pair of future purchases in horrible, red fill dirt on top of a slope and added no supplemental irrigation. They flourished.

‘Powis Castle’ will survive in any soil type, and prefers a neutral to alkaline soil. Mature plants may open up in the center and look rather rangy. Limited pruning can be done any time plants are actively growing. They withstand hard pruning and will regenerate into dense shrubs. Important: Do NOT prune in late fall or winter. Wait until active new growth starts in spring before whipping out the loppers. Plants pruned in winter are likely to die.

Artemisia is not grown for its pleasant fragrance. Crushed foliage or cut stems exude a strong smell. This odor is what makes deer avoid it. Plants are untroubled by insects or diseases.

You will notice that I have not provided a common name for Artemisia. Well, here goes: Wormwood.

Soft, fern-like foliage of Artemesia

Artemesia paired with Cryptomeria globosa ‘Nana’

I threw this Artemesia onto a gravel pile. Instead of dying, it became a robust, healthy plant. Here it shares space with Lambs Ears, a creeping Sedum, and Eucalyptus.

Tiny Allium Lookalikes

Most gardeners are familiar with the large, impressive Alliums, also known as flowering onions. Yes, those softball-size purple globes look great towering over shorter plants. They adorned the Mary Snoddy garden several times, but either dwindled down to nothing in a few years or were so tall they needed to be staked. I have limited patience for staking and even less for expensive bulbs that pull a disappearing act, so I moved on to better plants. Then I discovered two diminutive lookalikes, Society Garlic (Tulbaghia violacea, pronounced tul-BAG-ee-uh vy-oh-LAH-say-uh) and Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum, pronounced AL-ee-um too-ber-OH-sum).

Society Garlic has long narrow leaves and clusters of star-shaped lavender flowers held atop narrow stems. If the leaves are crushed, they give off a strong garlic odor. Plant them in full sun or part sun. They are heat and drought tolerant, but will bloom much more if given plenty of water. They are perennial in zones 7-10. Propagate by dividing mature clumps or taking root cuttings. They are rarely bothered by insects or diseases, although slugs may cause minor damage. I was surprised to find Society Garlic flowers are a favorite target for hummingbirds. A variegated-leaf type is available but I find it to be less cold hardy than the non-variegated form.

Garlic Chives also have long narrow leaves, but their flower clusters are white. Unlike Society Garlic, those flowers are followed by capsules of black seeds. Unless the capsules are removed, they fall to the ground and seeds sprout into ever-enlarging clumps, giving rise to a reputation for invasiveness. Trust me on this one – removing the seed clusters is far easier that removing a zillion little bulbs. Bees and butterflies visit the flowers, but hummingbirds pass them by. Garlic Chives grow in a wider area than Society Garlic, in zones 3-9.  They are not picky on soil type as long as it is a well-drained. They prefer full sun. So, how do you tell Garlic Chives from Onion Chives? Garlic Chives have a solid stem; Onion Chives have hollow stems.

Society Garlic begins flowering in spring and continues through frost. Garlic Chives is a late-summer to autumn bloomer. Deer ignore both these beauties. Either can be closely planted as a flower bed edger to discourage deer from nibbling your favorites.

This clump of Allium tuberosum (Garlic Chives) held up to a heavy thunderstorm just minutes before. It did not flatten the way many other plants would.

Society Garlic flower

Clump of Society Garlic, Tulbaghia

Two New Shrubs for Short Hedges

Recently, several gardening friends and I climbed into our cars (and truck) for a trip to Head-Lee Nursery in Seneca, SC. I was fortunate enough to run into Bill Head (who introduced Wisteria frutescens ‘Amethyst Falls’, a well-behaved sterile vine with beautiful purple blooms but none of the nasty invasive qualities of Wisteria chinensis). I asked which were his favorite new plants for 2021, and he named two. One of these was Ilex opaca ‘RLH-I0-1’. Before you yawn and dismiss this as “just another holly, let me say that there is nothing “average” about Ramblin’ Man™ Weeping Holly. You read that correctly: It is a weeping form of our native American Holly.

Ramblin’ Man™ will spread to ten feet wide but no more than two feet tall. Use it as a groundcover or an accent. I snapped the accompanying photograph of the plant in a nursery container. The weeping stem habit is evident. This is such a new intro that cultural information is scant on the internet, but it is safe to assume that this holly will enjoy the same cultural conditions as other Ilex opaca: full sun to mostly sun; moist, acidic soil; zones 5-8. American Holly has leathery, evergreen leaves. It tolerates neglect and is not normally browsed by deer.

The second recommended shrub was Clinopodium georgianum ‘Sweet Savannah™ Calamint.’ I expected a plant with the gray-green leaves of a Nepeta, but Sweet Savannah™ has deep green, aromatic foliage. This beauty is only 12 inches tall but will spread to 30 inches wide, in sun to part shade. A member of the mint family, it is cold hardy down to twenty degrees. It is a great plant for short hedges or foundation plantings. In autumn, it is covered with attractive lavender flowers. Mr. Head shared a photo of the plant in bloom, shown below. This improved native checks all the boxes: easy to grow, deer resistant, pollinator friendly, heat and drought tolerant.

Calamint is the Perennial Plant Association’s 2021 Perennial of the Year.

Ilex opaca ‘Ramblin Man’

Sweet Savannah Calamint

Perennial Bellflowers Ring a Long TIme

Oops – I did it again. Another impulse purchase of a plant that may not be a good choice for my area. One of the local grocery stores has strategically placed their flower section directly in my path, between the salad bar (packaged salads during the pandemic) and the fresh fruit. I’m already needy when I go in, and those small containers of cute potted plants seem to jump in my cart without my involvement. This week’s purchase was a pair of tiny (2.5-inch containers) Campanula. That was the only identifier on the label. No mention of the species. Sigh…

It could be Campanula carpatica, C. glomerata, C. persicifolia, C. takesimana, C. rotundifolia, C. medium, C. punctata, or C. rapunculoides. The one thing all these species share is ease of growth. A few prefer cool summers. Most (but not all) have bell-shaped flowers. (The common name is Bellflower or Canterbury Bells.) Most are in shades of blue or purple, but a few are pink, lilac or even white. My newest acquisitions are a deep purple, with upward facing blooms. Unless appearances are deceiving, it will be a dwarf, spreading form.

In the Snoddy garden, Campanula punctata ‘Pantaloons’ has been a star performer during the last ten years. A single plant, situated in poor soil with partial shade, spread rapidly via rhizomes and seeds to make a large, lovely community without any deadheading, staking, fertilizing or watering. Campanulas prefer neutral to alkaline soil, but mine has done fine in acidic soil. The punctata species is perennial in zones 5 through 9. It has a long, long bloom period. Deer shun all Campanulas.

‘Pantaloons’ was a gift plant from the gentleman who taught most of my Master Gardener classes in 2002. He labeled the plant “Purple Pantaloons” which reminded me, oddly, of the saloon girls in old television Western shows like Gunsmoke. Mr. Maple is deceased now, but his memory lives on in my garden.

Campanula punctata. Image by GLady from Pixabay.

“Bearded Bellflower” showing the fuzzy threads that gave rise to the common name.

New Ajugas, New Colors

It is freezing outside. The wind is moaning like a banshee with a hangover. And I am indoors, fireside, with a cat on my feet and a lap full of nursery catalogs. It’s always fun to see the year’s newest seed and plant introductions and to read all the descriptions. A catalog from a seed company in South Carolina. has a whopping 184 entries for tomatoes. How can growers find 184 different ways to describe a tomato? And yet, they do.

Among the new plants for 2021 is an entire series of Ajuga reptans. ‘Feathered Friends’ encompasses seven new cultivars with golden, bronze or almost-black leaves. My heart beat a little faster when I saw Ajuga ‘Noble Nightingale.’ Some interior decorators recommend a touch of black in each room. A touch of black or almost black can elevate a so-so container combination to wow. Black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus 'Nigrescens') has been my go-to plant for containers, but ‘Noble Nightingale’ is only four inches tall, with a spread up to 18 inches. I can envision it with Euphorbia ‘Diamond Frost’ and something pink — Begonias or Caladiums. ‘Cordial Canary’ has golden yellow foliage, unlike any other Ajuga. ‘Parrot Paradise’ has leaves with shades of yellow, orange and red. From a distance, it reads as bronze.

Ajuga (common name is Bugleweed or Carpetweed) is easily grown in partial sun or shade. It will tolerate some drought. Blue flowers are a bonus. These undemanding groundcovers spread quickly, giving rise to some gardeners’ assessment of the plant as invasive. (It is a member of the mint family). It will grow and even thrive in many situations where other plants, including grass, won’t grow such as deep shade, dry soil, or under Black Walnut trees. It will tolerate minor foot traffic. Plants can be so vigorous that congested areas die. Prevent this by division. Ajuga is resistant to damage from deer and rabbits. Other than dieback from congestions, their only problem is root-rot when placed in wet soils.

The Mary Snoddy garden features ‘Burgundy Glow’ and ‘Black Scallop’ but these new cultivars are alluring. The above-mentioned ‘Feathered Friends’ is offered exclusively by Mast Young Plants. Here is a link to their site, so you can see photos of these beautiful new foliage colors: Ajugas

This photo of Ajuga ‘Black Scallop’ was taken February 3, proving that this groundcover for shade can look as good in mid-winter as it does during the warmer months. The almost-black foliage looks wonderful when paired with chartreuse, such as Lysimachia aurea, “Creeping Jenny” or rose shades, such as a bronze-leaf wax begonia with pink flowers..

Ajuga ‘Burgundy Glow’ lights up a dark area.

A planting of Ajuga ‘Chocolate Chip’ along a walkway at Hatcher Garden and Woodland Preserve. (Photographer is unknown, unfortunately.) The shiny, rounded leaves offer beautiful contrast to the delicate fern fronds and the rough granite stones.

A new planting of ‘Black Scallop’ Ajuga pops against the chartreuse foliage of Talinum (“Jewels of Opar” and the rounded leaves of several Hostas. It will eventually spread to cover all the pine needle mulch.

Winter Jasmine, The Earliest Flowers

Tubular yellow flowers are erupting on leafless shrubs here in the Carolinas’ piedmont. Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum, pronounced JAZ-men-um noo-duh-FLORE-um) blooms early, about the same time as Crocus. The 6-petal unscented flowers are similar in color and shape to Forsythia, but are smaller and fewer. Flowers appear before leaves, and open first at the bottoms of stems, progressing to the tips. The shrub’s weeping structure is similar to Forsythia, but stems are smaller in diameter and young stems have a greenish tint, even when dormant.

Red exterior of unopened Winter Jasmine buds.

Plants reach five feet in height. Like Forsythia, Winter Jasmine will spread aggressively unless controlled. Any stems that touch ground will take root. It flowers best in full sun but will tolerate shade, poor soil, and drought. Left alone, plants take on an unkept, thicket-like appearance after a few years. Remedy this with severe pruning as soon as the flowering season ends. I inherited an overgrown hedge of these plants when we bought a new home. They have encroached into the territory of a nearby row of boxwoods that I want to preserve, so in March I’ll cut the entire hedge to within a few inches of the soil and use a sharp spade to sever and remove the roots outside the target range.

Winter Jasmine stems are squarish in cross section, with four definite angles, while Forsythias are round. Tiny (less than an inch) compound leaves appear opposite on stems, which allows the gardener to distinguish it from Jasminum floridum, a visually similar plant with alternate leaves and the same messy haystack of stems.

Winter Jasmine is an excellent groundcover plant for slopes that would be difficult to mow. Its arching stems look like a waterfall cascading over walls . It is rarely damaged by deer, disease, or insects. It is hardy in zones 6 through 10

A hedge of Winter Jasmine, planted on a steep bank above a business parking lot. Perfect for this location.

The thicket-like growth of Winter Jasmine is evident here. The gray stems are dead and should be pruned out. Live stems are green.

Heuchera for Year-Round Beauty

When the winter garden is clothed in dormant twigs and fallen leaves, a touch of lively color lifts the spirit and reminds us that spring lurks ahead. Heuchera is a colorful group of perennials that are hardy from zones 4 to 9, depending upon variety and lineage. Modern cultivars have parents in H. villosa and H. americana. In the south, Heucheras (common names: Coral Bell, Alumroot) withstand hot and cold temperatures and look good every month of the year. Tiny blooms, a favorite of butterflies, are held atop wiry stems, but Heucheras are grown for their outstanding foliage. Cultivars have caramel, rose, lime, purple or green leaves marked with silver, red or white.

The lovely chartreuse green ‘Citronelle’ is one of the most heat tolerant cultivars. Grow it in shade to partial shade, where the leaves will be more yellow than green. Full sun leads to crispy edges and bleached leaves. I planted dozens of these in a lightly shaded bed. Within three years, there was only a single survivor. Each one got smaller and smaller, dwindling down to a single leaf before disappearing completely. I finally discovered the key to success – well-drained soil. The native heavy clay soil of upstate South Carolina mandated container culture, enhanced by fertile, well-drained potting soil and frequent watering. I plucked the lone ‘Citronelle’ specimen from the ground and placed it in a container with two other Heucheras, a purple-leaf variety (lost the cultivar name) and ‘Caramel,’ with caramel-colored leaves. Instant success! I eventually moved ‘Citronelle’ to her own container and replaced her with ‘Key Lime Rickey.’ These three live shoulder-to-shoulder in a container which looks as good in February as in August. Two ‘Amber Waves’ plants look especially good in a pair of peachy-toned clay pots along a brick walkway. These are sited in full sun. (Evidently, they did not receive the notification that they were meant for shade.)

A trio of Heucheras (‘Caramel,’ ‘Key Lime Rickey,’ and an unidentified purple leaf cultivar). These three live in harmony all year long. The container looks this good even in winter.

Plant breeders introduce new cultivars every year, with an ever-broadening range of color and vein combinations. One thing I have learned about this wonderful plant: Catalog photos are taken when plants are at their very peak of beauty. Plants that exhibit gorgeous apricot and rose shades in spring (such as ‘Sweet Tea’ or ‘Peach Flambe’) may mature darker, even dirty-looking by August or September. My beloved ‘Berry Smoothie’ is raspberry-rose in spring but darkens to purple in winter. In catalogs, ‘Stop Light,’ is a beauty, with yellow-lime leaves marked with bright red veins. I have never been able to replicate the distinctive markings in my garden and had to settle for a red vein here and there. Purple-leaf forms age a bit better. ‘Obsidian’ is almost black. It looks especially good in containers with pink Begonias or Caladiums. Heucheras also pair well with smaller grasses, such as Lagurus ovatus ‘Bunny Tails.’

If a mature Heuchera develops an elongated stem, it is time to lift it and replant it to position the woody section under soil level. Remove tattered or crispy leaves at any time to keep the plant looking tidy. Heucheras are rarely browsed by deer or rabbits.

Finally, Heuchera is pronounced HEW-ker-ah. This one is mispronounced even more than Liriope. The first syllable rhymes with Yew. Get it right and you have risen to the upper echelon of gardeners.

'Amber Waves' ruffled, peachy leaves

'Berry Smoothie' plum and silver leaves

Well-Earned Moniker: Cast Iron Plant

Cast Iron plant (Aspidistra elatior, pronounced ass-pih-DIS-trah eh-LAY-tee-or) is adored by flower arrangers and those with a self-professed black thumb. These stalwart plants have vertical leaves to 24” or so. Planted directly in the ground, they tolerate heavy shade, dry soil and neglect, although they look best with a little added moisture in dry periods. Flower arrangers love them because the leaves stay firm for a lengthy period after being cut, and will even survive for a time without being in a vase of water. Leaves can be pleated, rolled, or folded for special arrangement effects, or even used to line the inside of a clear container that features blooming stems.

Cast Iron plant will survive outdoors in zones 7 and 8. In colder zones, it makes a great houseplant due to its low light requirement. Its persistence in the face of neglect won it common names like Bar-room Plant or Parlor Palm. Outdoors, it prefers shade or partial shade, and will not tolerate direct sun. Protect from strong winds to avoid tattered leaves. 

Dr. Lew Feldman, the Garden Director at University of California’s Botanical Gardens at Berkley, wrote a fascinating history of how the plant earned its name. To summarize, Cast Iron plant became popular as a houseplant in the late 19th century when gas lighting introduced ethylene into home interiors. (Ethylene is used now used as a growth-restricting hormone by professional growers.) The Cast Iron plant has a biochemistry that caused it to ignore the large amount of ethylene indoors, making it one of the few plants that would survive. Find his entire article here.  

Cast Iron plant, an asparagus relative, spreads by rhizomes. It is evergreen where winter temperatures remain above 20 degrees, making it a good alternative for hosta and a good companion to ferns. Deer don’t browse it

The coarse texture of Aspidistra contrasts well with fern fronds. This beautiful planting is in No Man’s Land, the area next to an exterior wall where little rain falls.

Color Me Confused

Last year I received a gift shrub from a dear friend. The tag said “Blue Mist Spirea.” There was no Latin name included. When I did a little research online to learn the plant’s sun and water requirements, I was astonished to learn that it was NOT a Spirea. Not even close. Instead, this gray-leaf beauty with clusters of tiny powder-blue blooms is a Caryopteris. So why call a Caryopteris a Spirea? Beats me. They are not even in the same family. I can only guess that there was some confusion in the plant breeder’s greenhouse and once the patent was received or the plant tags were printed, it was too hard or expensive to make the correction.

Many garden centers will offer “Blue Mist Spirea,” but you may also find ‘Longwood Blue,’ ‘Beyond Midnight,’ ‘Dark Knight’ and ‘Grand Bleu.’ The ‘Worchester Gold’ cultivar has some yellow to its foliage, but it is not as golden as the name might lead one to believe. It tends to turn more green where summers are hot.

Plant Caryopteris in full sun, in well-drained, lean soil. Too rich a soil produces soft growth that is weak and floppy. It is heat and drought tolerant. The blooms attract numerous butterflies and bees, so site them away from busy pathways and entrances. The shrub naturally forms a nice mounded shape with a fine texture. It is deciduous, losing every leaf when hard freezes arrive. The branches should be pruned hard (down to 12 inches or less) in early spring because blooms occur only on new growth. Pruning will also keep the plant dense and compact. Resist the temptation to trim until spring arrives and new growth starts to show. If you prune in autumn or early winter, the plant may not live through cold weather. Wet soil in winter may also cause plant death.

Caryopteris are easy to grow from cuttings, but many times the plant self-propagates by growing roots wherever a branch touches soil. These rooted branches can be separated from the mother in spring and transplanted to new locations. Caryopteris look pretty when paired with gray-leafed Artemesia such as ‘Powis Castle’ or contrast nicely with burgundy foliage. It also looks fabulous planted next to orange Zinnias.

Caryopteris foliage has a distinctive odor that deer don’t like. Some people describe it as smelling like bell pepper. I don’t agree, but cannot find another comparison that is more accurate. Deer do not browse it and insects do not bother it. This small scale (36 inches or less) shrub is trouble free and should be planted more often. It is hardy in Zones 6-9.

Clusters of tiny blue blooms form along the stems of Caryopteris.