Better Behaved Abelia

Modern Abelia cultivars are a vast improvement over the version that was common in every garden several decades ago. Those evergreen or semi-evergreen shrubs grew to heights of six feet or more and threw unruly sprouts that reached for the sky, creating an unkempt appearance. There was a pair of them planted either side of the rear entrance of a local church. Their whippy tentacles waved around like something from The Little Shop of Horrors. You could almost hear them whisper, “Repent!” But I digress.

Glossy Abelia of yesteryear (Linnaea x grandiflora, pronounced LIN-ay-ee-uh gran-duh-FLOR-uh, formerly known as Abelia x grandiflora) was appreciated for its tolerance to heat, drought, humidity, and poor soil. New growth was a bronzy pink, and honeybees swarmed over their nectar-rich tubular pink and white blooms. Unfortunately, to keep them in check, homeowners regularly pruned their arching stems into ugly, tight meatballs.

Current Abelia cultivars have two advantages over the older generations. First, many are available in mature sizes of four feet or less, making them ideal for foundation plantings. ‘Edward Goucher,’ ‘Rose Creek,’ and ‘Little Richard’ are all dwarfs, reaching heights of 36 inches or less. Second, there is a entire rainbow of foliage colors available. ‘Kaleidoscope’ has multicolored foliage with yellow leaves in spring and orange-red in fall. ‘Sunrise’ has green, yellow and white variegated foliage. ‘Confetti’ has pink, green and white foliage (a real stunner, in my opinion).

Abelia is hardy in zones 5-9. It prefers well-drained soil, acidic to neutral, and will accept some drought once established. The bell-shaped pink, rose, white, or lavender flowers attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Flowers open over several weeks in summer, but may appear sporadically at any time. Shrubs are rarely bothered by deer and resist damage from pollution, drought, or salt.

In upstate South Carolina, this ‘Kaleidoscope’ Abelia has scattered blooms on the last day of November . The foliage is yellow, green, orange, and pink.

Same shrub as above. From a distance, the color reads as green and salmon.

Abelia ‘Rose Creek’
Image by Jan Haerer from Pixabay 

Winter Jasmine, The Earliest Flowers

Tubular yellow flowers are erupting on leafless shrubs here in the Carolinas’ piedmont. Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum, pronounced JAZ-men-um noo-duh-FLORE-um) blooms early, about the same time as Crocus. The 6-petal unscented flowers are similar in color and shape to Forsythia, but are smaller and fewer. Flowers appear before leaves, and open first at the bottoms of stems, progressing to the tips. The shrub’s weeping structure is similar to Forsythia, but stems are smaller in diameter and young stems have a greenish tint, even when dormant.

Red exterior of unopened Winter Jasmine buds.

Plants reach five feet in height. Like Forsythia, Winter Jasmine will spread aggressively unless controlled. Any stems that touch ground will take root. It flowers best in full sun but will tolerate shade, poor soil, and drought. Left alone, plants take on an unkept, thicket-like appearance after a few years. Remedy this with severe pruning as soon as the flowering season ends. I inherited an overgrown hedge of these plants when we bought a new home. They have encroached into the territory of a nearby row of boxwoods that I want to preserve, so in March I’ll cut the entire hedge to within a few inches of the soil and use a sharp spade to sever and remove the roots outside the target range.

Winter Jasmine stems are squarish in cross section, with four definite angles, while Forsythias are round. Tiny (less than an inch) compound leaves appear opposite on stems, which allows the gardener to distinguish it from Jasminum floridum, a visually similar plant with alternate leaves and the same messy haystack of stems.

Winter Jasmine is an excellent groundcover plant for slopes that would be difficult to mow. Its arching stems look like a waterfall cascading over walls . It is rarely damaged by deer, disease, or insects. It is hardy in zones 6 through 10

A hedge of Winter Jasmine, planted on a steep bank above a business parking lot. Perfect for this location.

The thicket-like growth of Winter Jasmine is evident here. The gray stems are dead and should be pruned out. Live stems are green.

Color Me Confused

Last year I received a gift shrub from a dear friend. The tag said “Blue Mist Spirea.” There was no Latin name included. When I did a little research online to learn the plant’s sun and water requirements, I was astonished to learn that it was NOT a Spirea. Not even close. Instead, this gray-leaf beauty with clusters of tiny powder-blue blooms is a Caryopteris. So why call a Caryopteris a Spirea? Beats me. They are not even in the same family. I can only guess that there was some confusion in the plant breeder’s greenhouse and once the patent was received or the plant tags were printed, it was too hard or expensive to make the correction.

Many garden centers will offer “Blue Mist Spirea,” but you may also find ‘Longwood Blue,’ ‘Beyond Midnight,’ ‘Dark Knight’ and ‘Grand Bleu.’ The ‘Worchester Gold’ cultivar has some yellow to its foliage, but it is not as golden as the name might lead one to believe. It tends to turn more green where summers are hot.

Plant Caryopteris in full sun, in well-drained, lean soil. Too rich a soil produces soft growth that is weak and floppy. It is heat and drought tolerant. The blooms attract numerous butterflies and bees, so site them away from busy pathways and entrances. The shrub naturally forms a nice mounded shape with a fine texture. It is deciduous, losing every leaf when hard freezes arrive. The branches should be pruned hard (down to 12 inches or less) in early spring because blooms occur only on new growth. Pruning will also keep the plant dense and compact. Resist the temptation to trim until spring arrives and new growth starts to show. If you prune in autumn or early winter, the plant may not live through cold weather. Wet soil in winter may also cause plant death.

Caryopteris are easy to grow from cuttings, but many times the plant self-propagates by growing roots wherever a branch touches soil. These rooted branches can be separated from the mother in spring and transplanted to new locations. Caryopteris look pretty when paired with gray-leafed Artemesia such as ‘Powis Castle’ or contrast nicely with burgundy foliage. It also looks fabulous planted next to orange Zinnias.

Caryopteris foliage has a distinctive odor that deer don’t like. Some people describe it as smelling like bell pepper. I don’t agree, but cannot find another comparison that is more accurate. Deer do not browse it and insects do not bother it. This small scale (36 inches or less) shrub is trouble free and should be planted more often. It is hardy in Zones 6-9.

Clusters of tiny blue blooms form along the stems of Caryopteris.