Jerusalem Cherry: Beautiful but Toxic to People and Pets

Recent visitors to my garden have asked the identity of a plant that was a part of my childhood, Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum). These evergreen perennials have dark green, elongated leaves with wavy edges. Plants will not wow you with their tiny, white, star-shaped flowers, but those flowers produce marble sized green fruits that mature to an eye-popping bright orange color. Fruits persist for weeks and sometimes months before they shrivel and fall.

My specimens are heritage plants, obtained from my mother who got a start from her own mother. That should tell you something about their hardiness and longevity. In my grandmother’s day, resources went into raising food, not decorative flowers. Her soil was rock-filled clay, and her Jerusalem Cherries persisted and even spread to a large clump.

While they are not native to the US, Jerusalem Cherries spread across the southeast long ago. Plants prefer full sun but will survive even with half-sun. They are hardy outdoors in zones 8 and 9, but are sometimes grown as houseplants to bring a spot of bright color indoors. Outdoors, plants attain a height of about two feet, with a similar spread. Both the leaves and the fruits have an unpleasant odor if crushed.

My research revealed that the fruits are toxic, causing problems for people, pets, and horses. The symptoms resulting from eating any part of the plant read like a nightmare, but I confess that, as a kid, I bit into one of the fruits at least once a year (yes, I was THAT child) until the awful flavor stopped me from consuming it. I never experienced the gastric symptoms described. The sap can cause issues for those with sensitive skin. Several university websites recommended against using the plant indoors because of its toxicity.

Jerusalem Cherry is a member of the Solanaceae family which also includes tomatoes, potatoes, peppers…and deadly nightshade. The fruits are filled with seeds that look like those of peppers or tomatoes.

Outdoors, wind and birds take care of pollination chores. Birds are unaffected by the plant’s toxins. If you decide to grow one of these as a houseplant, you will need to cross pollinate the flowers yourself to obtain fruit. Use an artist’s paintbrush or a cotton swab to move pollen from flower to flower. If you wish to avoid any spreading outdoors, do a quick clean up of fallen fruit in the autumn. If you miss any, the small seedlings are easily removed in early spring with a swipe of a hoe.

A mature Jerusalem Cherry plant showing both green and ripe fruits.

The seeds inside Jerusalem Cherry look like those of other members of the nightshade family — tomatoes, peppers.

Homegrown Tea: How to Grow a Tea Garden (Plus Recipes to Try)

I am a dedicated coffee drinker, but I am expanding my tastes to various teas. The National Garden Bureau provided a very helpful article on growing your own.  Today’s post is a guest blog, of sorts, since content is sourced directly from the NGB. Link to the full article is at the end.

From Backyard to Teacup: The Ultimate Comfort Craft

Comfort. Personal rituals keep us grounded during tough times and long days. And what’s more cozy than a delicious cup of tea? For thousands of years, our ancestors heralded herbal tea as a comforting, healthy concoction. Today, millions of people enjoy tea, whether it’s served with a scone at breakfast or sipped before bed to unwind.

But why settle for store-bought tea when you can create your own tea garden? It’s easy to grow gorgeous, fragrant plants to use in your favorite “cuppa.” From homegrown herbs to flowering trees, you’ll find many beautiful, beneficial plants to include in your tea garden.

TEN Terrific Plants for a Tea Garden

1. Camellia sinensis—The Tea Plant

Green tea, white tea, black tea…if you’re a true tea connoisseur, you’ll love growing true tea in your backyard. Camellia sinensis—also known as the tea plant—is the foundation for one of the world’s most popular beverages.

Camellia sinensis, Tea Camellia. Do not confuse it with Camellia japonica or Camellia sasanqua.

Hardy in warmer climates, Camellia sinensis also grows well as a potted plant, so you can bring it indoors during the winter if you live in a cold climate. Like other camellias, Camellia sinensis prefers well-drained, acidic soil with a pH of 5.5 or lower. The shrub needs full to part sun and grows 6 to 15 feet tall. USDA Zone 7-9.

Fun fact: The various types of tea—green, white, or black—simply depend on how you dry and cure the leaves.

How to Harvest:

Use only tender, new growth for all forms of tea. Snip the top two leaves, along with a bud. Then, the secret is in the prep:

• White tea: Let the leaves rest for a few hours on a tray at room temperature, then dry in the oven at 190 degrees F. for about an hour.

• Green tea: Wither the leaves for two hours. Heat oven to 300 degrees F., and dry leaves for 7 minutes. The leaves should still be soft enough to roll between your hands so the leaves curl. Spread the rolled leaves on a pan, heat the oven to 250 degrees F., then dry the leaves for 40 minutes.

• Black tea: Oxidation gives black tea its dark color. Wither the leaves overnight. Roll the leaves in batches. Spread them in a thick layer in a pan, cover with a moist cloth, and place in a 100-degree oven for 1 hour. Keep the moisture level high by adding a bowl of water in the oven. Remove the cloth and bowl of water, increase the temperature to 250 degrees F., and dry the leaves for another 40 minutes.

How to Make Tea with Camellia Sinensis:

• White tea: Steep a small handful of withered leaves in 1 cup of boiling water for 10 minutes.

• Green tea: Steep 1 teaspoon prepared leaves in 1 cup of boiling water for 4 to 5 minutes.

• Black tea: Steep 1 to 1-1/2 teaspoons of tea in boiling water for 4 to 5 minutes.

Always strain tea before drinking or place tea in a diffuser before steeping.

2. Rose Hip Tea

Made from the small, red-orange pseudo-fruits of rose plants like Blanc Double de Coubert, which look a bit like miniature apples, rose hip tea is rich in vitamin C, antioxidants, and flavonoids. Traditionally used to boost immune systems, it’s thought to reduce “bad” cholesterol and blood pressure, while also containing anti-inflammatory properties. Rose hip tea sports a slightly sweet flavor with a tart kick, similar to a green apple.

Rose hips form after the flower is pollinated in the spring or summer, with the hips ripening from late summer into autumn. Roses prefer rich, well-drained, slightly-acidic soil with a pH of 6.0-6.5. Most roses need full sun, while a few varieties tolerate part-sun.

While you’ll find hips on most roses, some heirloom varieties produce larger hips. Collect the hips in the fall for use in tea. USDA Zone 3-9, depending on variety.

When to Harvest:

Stop deadheading flowers in fall, allowing the hips to form and ripen on the shrub. Harvest hips when plump. Remove the hips from stems and rinse. Use fresh or dry for later use.

How to Make Rose Hip Tea:

• Fresh: Place 4 to 8 hips in 1 cup of boiling water. Steep 10 to 15 minutes.

• Dried: Steep 1 to 2 teaspoons of dried hips in 1 cup boiling water. Steep 10 minutes.

Avoid spraying pesticides on plants that you are growing for tea.

3. Roselle Hibiscus Tea

For a tasty summertime drink, try hibiscus tea. Brewed from the deep-red sepals and calyces of roselle hibiscus, it’s full of vitamin C and anthocyanins. The bright-red beverage is a healthy, no-sugar alternative to sweet tea.

Easy to grow as an annual in northern zones, roselle hibiscus can be planted directly in the ground, or grow it in a large container to move inside during cold winters. Plants are 7 to 10 feet tall with a bushy growth habit.

Pretty flowers typically last only one day, after which a red calyx forms. Prefers full sun and well-drained soil. USDA Zone 9-11.

When to Harvest:

Harvest calyces 7 to 10 days after flowering, or when the calyx is about an inch wide. Use fresh or dry for later use. To dry, separate the dark red calyces from the seed pod and dehydrate.

How to Make Hibiscus Tea:

Steep 1-2 teaspoons dried calyces in 8 ounces of boiling water for 5 to 10 minutes. Serve hot or cold.

For the following plants, use the Basic Tea Recipe that follows.

4. Linden Tea

Not only does the linden tree look lovely in the landscape, but it also produces pretty, petite yellow flowers adored by both tea enthusiasts and bees.

For centuries, the flowers have been used in tea to promote relaxation, relieve stress, and soothe digestive upset.

While linden trees grow throughout the world, American Linden, also known as “Basswood,” is native to eastern North America. Mature trees reach 75 to 90 feet tall and 40 to 50 feet wide, so give this beauty space to grow. USDA Zone 3-8.

When to Harvest:

Harvest fully open, heavily fragrant blooms. The flowers can be used fresh in tea or dried for later use.

5. Mint Tea

If you love the crisp, sweet flavor of mint, you’ll adore this easy-to-grow herb in your tea garden. But beware: mint can run rampant over other plants. Consider growing mint in pots to contain it.

You’ll love the mint varieties available: peppermint, sweet mint, spearmint…even chocolate mint! Because mint hybridizes readily between different varieties, plants grown from seed often fail to remain true to type.

For specific cultivars or varieties, buy established plants from reputable sources. Mint prefers moist soil. Hardiness zones vary, depending on the variety.

How to Harvest:

Snip leaves in the morning after the dew dries. Only harvest up to 1/3 of the plant at a time. Rinse. Use fresh or dry for later.

Many herbs develop a stronger flavor when dried. When deciding how much to use, a good rule of thumb is 1 tablespoon dried herbs to 3 tablespoons fresh.

6. Lemon Balm Tea

Lemon Balm, Melissa officinalis. Like other mints, it will spread aggressively, but if it escapes into your lawn, mowing becomes a pleasant, fragrant experience.

A member of the mint family, this mild, citrusy herb makes a soothing drink, whether you enjoy it hot or cold. Traditionally used to reduce stress, anxiety, and insomnia, lemon balm also adds a burst of aromatherapy in the garden.

Rub a leaf between your fingers, and the scent transports you to a lemon grove. But—like other mints—this lovely perennial herb will take over your garden if it’s not contained. USDA Zone 3-9.

How to Harvest:

Snip leaves in the morning after the dew dries. Only harvest up to 1/3 of the plant at a time. Rinse. Use fresh or dry for later.

7. Rosemary Tea

Rosemary has a wonderful, pine-like fragrance.

Rosemary tea not only tastes and smells delicious, but it’s a great way to boost immune health. The savory flavor and pine fragrance make an invigorating, rejuvenating beverage. Plus, this tender perennial is rich in vitamins, iron, and antioxidants. It’s also thought to help improve memory.

Rosemary prefers full sun and well-drained soil. It thrives in dry, Mediterranean-like conditions. USDA Zone 8-11.

How to Harvest:

Snip branches in the morning after the dew dries. Only harvest up to 1/3 of the plant at a time. Rinse. Strip leaves from the branch to use fresh or dry for later use.

8. Lemongrass Tea

The citrusy flavor and fragrance of lemongrass are traditionally used to promote sleep, relieve pain, and boost immunity. The grassy herb contains antioxidants, as well as antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Growing 2 to 3 feet tall, with thick masses of green leaves on yellow stems, harvest the leaves for tea. In northern regions, grow this tender perennial as an annual or plant it in a large container to bring indoors when the weather cools. USDA Zone 9-10.

How to Harvest:

Wear gloves to protect your hands from the razor-sharp leaves. Cut the mature leaves at the outer base of the plant. Rinse, chop into 2-to-3-inch pieces, then use fresh or dry for later.

9. Lavender Tea

A popular herb used in aromatherapy, the fabulous flavor and fragrance of lavender also make it an ideal herb for tea. High concentrations of vitamin C, vitamin A, calcium, and amino acids help boost the immune system. But lavender is most noted for its calming properties. It was traditionally used to relieve stress, calm anxiety, improve sleep, and reduce depression. Because of its soothing properties, it’s the ideal bedtime tea.

This drought-tolerant perennial needs full sun and well-drained, dry soil. Pollinators adore lavender—but deer dislike it. USDA Zone 3-9 (depending on variety).

How to Harvest:

Snip branches in the morning after the dew dries. Only harvest up to 1/3 of the plant at a time. Rinse. Remove flower buds from the stem and leaves, as only the buds are used for tea. Use fresh or dry for later use.

10. Chamomile Tea

Is there a tea more renowned for promoting a good night’s rest than chamomile? Traditionally used to reduce insomnia, chamomile also contains antioxidant properties that reduce inflammation, aid digestion, and may even support heart health. You’ll find both the annual German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) and perennial Roman chamomile (Anthemis nobilis) equally beneficial in the garden and in the teacup.

Chamomile grows easily from seed. Plant it in a sunny, well-drained site. It also grows beautifully in containers. Plus, pollinators adore the daisy-like blooms, while deer dislike them.

How to Harvest:

Harvest fully opened flowers with flat petals. Pinch off flower heads from the stem. Only the flowers are used for tea. Use fresh or dry for later use.

Once tea leaves or flowers are completely dry, store them in airtight glass jars for future use. (Make sure to label the jars.)

Brew the Perfect Cup of Tea

Whether you prefer a calming cup of hot tea to release the tension of the day or need a chilled glass of a mood-boosting brew, your tea garden gives you plenty of choices for your favorite beverages.

Basic Tea Recipe:

Bruise freshly picked herb leaves gently by crushing them with a wooden spoon to release their aromatic oils.

• 1 teaspoon dried herbs (or three teaspoons freshly picked herbs)

• 1 cup boiling water

Boil water. Add the herbs to an infuser and place in a teacup. Pour boiling water over the herbs. Steep for 10 minutes until the flavor is released. To extract the herbs’ medicinal properties, steep for 15 to 30 minutes. Remove the infuser and serve. Add sweeter, like honey or sugar, if you prefer.

Here are a few recipes to get you started:

Mint Iced Tea

• 1 large handful of mint, fresh

• 8 cups water

Bring water to a boil.
Place mint in water and steep for 10-15 minutes.
Strain the water to remove leaves and pour into a pitcher.

Rosemary-Lemon Sun Tea

• 1/4 cup of rosemary leaves

• 1/4 of a large lemon, sliced thin

• Ice

Place rosemary in a pitcher and bruise leaves with a wooden spoon.
Add lemon and water, cover.
Let stand for 4 hours in the sun.
Strain and serve over ice.

Soothing Hibiscus Tea

• 1 teaspoon dried hibiscus flowers

• 1 teaspoon dried chamomile flowers

• 8 ounces of water

Add mixed flowers to the tea infuser and place in a cup.
Pour boiling water over the infuser.
Steep 5-10 minutes.

Follow this link for the complete article: https://ngb.org/how-to-grow-a-tea-garden/

*National Garden Bureau does not wish to advise or recommend herbs for medicinal or health use. The information here is intended for inspirational and educational purposes only. Please consult a healthcare professional before considering any herbal treatments.

Growing Blackberries in Your Home Garden

Summers during my childhood involved blackberry-picking. We did not have plants at our own home, so the activity involved packing up the family car and driving “to the country” where no one cared if you harvested from the roadside brambles. There was little competition from other pickers, because July in South Carolina is hot and humid and buggy. The trip home usually included lots of scratching from chigger bites, stained fingers, bloody gouges from thorns, and a short-tempered mother. It all seemed worthwhile when we ate the blackberry jam Mom made, especially when it was served atop split, buttered biscuits.

As an adult, I discovered that domestic blackberries bought at the grocery store did not compare in flavor to the wild berries of my childhood, and many of them had large seeds that reduced my enjoyment. So, every June or July, I donned the sunhat, long sleeves and trousers held tight with rubber bands around the cuffs as a chigger blockade, and harvested my own wild blackberries from the open woodlands near our house. Soon, my husband made it an annual task to locate these patches of deliciouness while the plants were in bloom. He would use his tractor and bushhog an open path around each patch. With the underbrush mowed down, I was able to ride right up to the plants and harvest without even getting off my 4-wheeler. Bliss.

When we moved to our current home, I thought my blackberry harvesting days were past, but then I discovered long rows of wild berries on either side of an undeveloped road nearby. The harvest was on again. It wasn’t convenient, but I was able to bag several gallons every year to freeze so that I could prepare cobblers as a special winter treat. For those of you who are unfamiliar with the term, a cobbler is a baked dessert of sweetened fruit topped with a sweet bread-like crust. The topping is always uneven, like cobblestones, hence the name cobbler instead of pie or dessert casserole. Wild fruit is quite tart, so lots of sugar is mandatory in cobbler-making.

I had not planned to include blackberries (Rubus fruticosus) in my home orchard, but I ran across plants that had been marked for clearance at a local big box store. The variety was ‘Ebony King’ which made me envision large berries. The label said “semi-thornless,” which sealed the deal. A dozen or so plants went home with me. In my orchard, I hammered in T-posts and ran trellising wire between the posts so that I could secure the arching branches to an almost flat plane, making the picking easier.

Let me say, the person who wrote “semi-thornless” for the labels has a far different definition than I do. The canes were covered in thorns. By year two, though, I was picking a fair harvest which almost justified the bloodshed.

One important thing to know is that blackberries have two types of branches, also called canes. During their first year, these branches are called primocanes. Their purpose is to nourish the plant. Second year canes are called floricanes. The floricanes flower and bear fruit. Once a floricane has finished producing its fruit, it will either die or hang around to create a misery-making thicket. Once the harvest is past, floricanes should be removed at ground level to encourage new growth. The primocanes of the current year will be the fruit-bearing floricanes of the following year. [I should note here that some new varieties will bear on first year canes.]

Two years ago, I neglected to remove the floricanes after the harvest. As a result, last year I had a mess – dead canes and young canes intermingled with the fruit-bearing canes to make harvesting a misery. There was only one thing to do – remove all canes, down to ground level, and let the plants regenerate. This year, all my canes are primocanes, so I will not have fruit. Next year, they will produce flowers and new primocanes will join the party. I promised myself that I will be diligent with removal, to avoid the horrible weedy mess that my own negligence created.

We discovered a few wild berry plants on our current property. My husband created a mowed path to them this week, so I will be able to harvest a small crop to tide me over until next year. I feel fortunate that we located these, because those long rows of wild berries along the undeveloped road are now gone, removed by large grading equipment as a new subdivision is under construction. The newcomers won’t know what they are missing.

If you decide to try blackberries in your own garden, be sure to plant them in full sun. They want rich soil of pH 6.0 to 6.5, and are considered heavy feeders, which means applications of fertilizer in early spring and again after harvest, at the rates and amounts recommended by a soil test. Consistent irrigation will ensure plump, tasty berries. Here is a hint for detecting ideal ripeness: a perfect berry is slightly dull, not glossy.

These blackberries are on the edge of glossy-turning-dull, so harvest will wait another day or two to allow them to reach peak flavor.

Just above the center of this photograph, you can see a tiny hummingbird nest. I did not attempt to take a photograph until after the babies left the nest.

A bowl full of flavor

Why Mosquitoes Bite Some People More Than Others

This week I attended a meeting in which all guests were seated outdoors to enjoy the host’s garden and décor. Two of our members were attacked by mosquitoes, while others were unaffected. It made me wonder – Why are mosquitoes drawn to some individuals more that others? Answer: It’s complicated.

Our genetics affect the amount of carboxylic acid and lactic acid we secret and the amount of carbon dioxide (CO2 ) we exhale. All three make us more attractive to mosquitoes. Mosquitoes sense the CO2 you exhale from up to fifty feet away (source: Scientific American). Our blood type has an impact, too. Research from Harvard Health reveals that people with Type O blood are more appealing to mosquitoes than those with Type A or B. Pregnant women, people with fast metabolisms, people with naturally high body temperatures, or larger adults all appeal as a next mosquito meal.

These conditions are beyond our control. One thing that we CAN control is our diet and our alcohol consumption. When I was a regular hiker, I always packed bananas as a trail snack. An experienced backpacker warned me against this. I had always assumed that the scent might attract raccoons or bears, and perhaps it could but consuming a banana can alter your skin’s chemistry enough to make you a target. The effect lasts one to three hours after consumption. Alcohol intake plays into it also. Beer, especially, makes you more “fragrant” to mosquitos seeking a meal.

Even something as innocuous as clothing choices can make us a more detectable target. Mosquitoes are attracted toward green and black fabrics, and less toward white , gray, beige, or pastels.

Females mosquitos are the only ones that bite. They need a blood meal to reproduce. Males do not have the mouthparts required to penetrate human skin. Males feed exclusively on plant nectar. Although they are flying around at all hours, females are most actively seeking a meal at dawn and dusk.

You can take two steps that will help reduce the mosquito count in your outdoor spaces. First, lower the population by removing any standing water. Mosquitoes lay their eggs in water, so if you remove any sources, they will go elsewhere to reproduce. Standing water collects in places that are easy to overlook. Gutters, birdbaths, pockets in fountains, and saucers under container plants. For birdbaths and fountains, you can float a mosquito dunk, a product containing Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) which releases a protien that destroys mosquito larvae. It is harmless to people and pets. A dunk typically lasts 30 days or so. For small areas like the saucer under a container plant, you can break them in half. There is ongoing discussion in the scientific community as to Bt’s harm to amphibians and other insect larvae.

Step two involves landscaping choices that make your garden less hospitable. Naturally repellent plants are those with heavy scents: rosemary, catmint, sage,  onions, lavender, and marigolds.

You can wear long sleeves and long plants to reduce the amount of exposed skin, use a spray-on repellent or essential oils, and avoid being outdoors during peak feeding times. Include some of the above-mentioned plants in containers around your regular outdoor seating areas. Clove oil and cinnamon oil are the most effective natural repellants.

For more information on protecting yourself from mosquito bites, visit this article from the Center for Disease Control.

A female mosquito has found a tasty target.

Drought-Tolerant Container Gardens: Succulents Are The Way to Go

Those of you who have been following my blog for a while know that my least favorite gardening task is watering. I love the look of container plants, but their need for frequent watering has prevented me from growing many until I discovered succulents. A succulent is a plant with limited water needs. Their fleshy leaves or stems serve as a storage unit, so that available water is absorbed and held until the plant needs it. They have evolved to tolerate dry conditions.

When we hear “water wise,” most of us first think of Cactus, but there are many others. Snake plant (Sansevieria) is a common houseplant, valued by many who profess that they can kill anything. Jade Plant (Crassula), Agave, Sedum, and Aloe are commonly grown. Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum) are a favorite passalong plant, shared between new and experienced gardeners alike. Plants may be bright green or have tints of gray, blue, purple, or pink. Leaves may be large and flat like paddles or narrow and needle-like. Choices are extensive and all are easy to grow.

The number one reason succulents die is overwatering. Whether grown in the ground, in containers, or indoors, they prefer a porous soil and lots of light. Indoors, use a potting soil labeled Cactus Mix and grow them in your sunniest window. Outdoors, succulents do well in areas with sandy or gravelly soil and excellent drainage. They require good light, but may need some afternoon shade in hot locations.

Many succulents are not hardy, so grow them in outdoor containers in summer, then bring them indoors during winter months. Most have shallow roots, and do best in shallow containers. Any succulent container must have drainage holes, to prevent waterlogging and rot. I find that a couple of layers of coffee filters or a used laundry fabric softener sheet placed in the bottom of the container before soil is added prevents porous soil from leaking out the holes.

I like to group different types of succulents in a single container, combining different leaf sizes, colors, and forms. Keep them in their plastic nursery pots until you have arranged them to your liking, then use potting soil to settle them in. Keep the soil at the same level or slightly below the top of the plant as it was in the nursery pot. This will prevent potting soil from lodging in the crown, a potential source of rot. Handle the new plants gently, as their roots are easily damaged by rough handling. When you first install your succulents, water them to ensure there are no air pockets. Allow excess water to drain and then empty saucers. Do not allow containers to stand in saucers of water. Succulents are comfortable in arid areas, so there is nothing to be gained by increasing their surrounding humidity.

If you want to give your succulent containers a finished appearance, use a non-porous top dressing like small stones or glass marbles. I prefer the neutral look of small river stones, but you can select a bright color of marbles or sea glass to compliment your container color. You can also use a groundcover Sedum as a living mulch.

In comparison to other plants, most succulents are inexpensive, so it is easy on the budget to experiment with different combinations.

This trio of containers sits near an entry. The two succulent containers combine different leaf forms and colors, which are complimented by the Heuchera ‘Amber Waves’ on the left. The burgundy foliage of the Weigela ‘Fine Wine’ behind the containers offers an added contrast.

For years, I struggled to keep plants watered in this triple-tiered tower. Last year, I replaced thirsty annuals with assorted succulents and they peformed well without daily attention. The broad-leaf forms spent the winter in the greenhouse. The finely textured, trailing plant on the right side (indentity unknown, sorry) is winter hardy and remained in place.

How to Get Rid of Mealybugs Before They Destroy Your Plants

I have a couple of “mother” Coleus plants in my greenhouse. I take cuttings from these in November or December, root them in starter cells, then move the rooted cuttings to four-inch containers. I grow them into transplants to set out when threat of spring frost is past. Using large starter plants gives my garden a hint of future lush appearance while bedding annuals are still tiny. The tag from my mommy plants is long gone, but I believe it is ‘Freckles,’ a personal favorite because the yellow and orange splotched leaves look good with the Melampodium I grow every year. The source plants are not pretty – taking cuttings means they are misshapen and stubby looking. Still, I can pull at least a dozen healthy cuttings from them annually. Until this year, that is.

I have very few plants that remain in the greenhouse during summer months, since plants I propagated or overwintered have moved to their outdoor summer locations. I disengage my automatic watering system during summer, so I visit the greenhouse every other day to manually water and ensure health of the few plants that remain. Imagine my disappointment when I found that my Coleus had been overtaken by a mealybug infestation that left them damaged beyond a hope of recovery.

Mealybugs are scale insects that suck the juices out of plants like Coleus, Cactus, Poinsettia, Rosemary, and many houseplants. Under magnification, they look like roly-poly bugs wearing white parkas. They can weaken plants to the point of death.

They are difficult to get rid of, requiring a three-prong approach. If the invasion is caught early, you may be able to control them by the first step only. First, use rubbing alcohol and a cotton-tipped swab to remove their bodies. Be careful to remove any eggs visible. Eggs are tiny, so a follow inspection is required. An alternate first treatment is to wash them away with a sharp stream of water. Second, applying a horticultural soap or oil will suffocate them. The oil will also smother any that are hiding in the tiny joints where leaves meet stems. And third, a systemic insecticide will kill any new bugs that decide to feed on the treated plants. Alcohol-soaked swabs and horticultural oils will kill adults but the eggs will be undamaged, so be prepared to repeat treatments several times as eggs hatch.

I reserve systemic insecticides for special or dire situations, since they kill good bugs along with the bad ones. Products containing the systemic Imidacloprid are widely available in garden centers and home improvement stores. Follow application instructions precisely.

I think flowers detract from the beauty of Coleus, so I remove flower buds as soon as I see them. Without flowers, pollinator damage from systemic poison is less of a concern. The bonus of flower removal is that it functions as a form of pruning that forces plants to bunch, making them look fuller. Unpinched plants tend to look rangy by season’s end, so I regularly pinch back to a pair of leaves even when they are not forming buds.

The best way to treat mealybugs is to prevent them if possible. Too much nitrogen leads to soft growth, so fertilize judiciously. Do not reuse potting soil that has been exposed to mealybugs, since their eggs can easily hide in soil. Sanitize tools and any pots you reuse. Quarantine any new arrivals for a day or two to ensure no hitchhikers. Most important: Inspect plants often so that problems are caught early.

A close view of a long-tailed Mealybug. Photo D-Kuru, CC BY-SA 3.0 AT

This is the sad result of a mealybug attack on a Coleus in my greenhouse.

Cardoon: Friend or Foe?

I wonder how to distinguish when a plant crosses the threshold from ornamental to annoying or even invasive. While the term “invasive” is often used to indicate plants that self-sow freely, the accurate meaning, succinctly put by the University of Florida,  is a plant that is “nonnative to a specific area, was introduced by humans, spreads so much that it displaces native plants. All invasive species start out as nonnative species, meaning that they don’t occur naturally in a geographic area. Once they are introduced, it may take some time for a nonnative species to become invasive, if they ever do. This is called a lag phase.” It is important to note that many nonnatives grow agreeably in our gardens without ever becoming invasive pests. A few examples: Azaleas, Camellias, Hydrangeas.

Cardoon has been gaining popularity among gardeners who enjoy unusual or out-of-the-ordinary plants. Cardoon, Cynara cardunculus (pronounced SIN-ah-rah kar-DUNK-yoo-lus) has a large number of common names. According to NC State University, these include Artichoke Thistle, Cardoon, Desert Artichoke, European Cardoon, Globe Artichoke, Scotch Thistle, Scottish Thistle, Spanish Artichoke, Wild Artichoke, and Wild Cardoon. I grew up in upstate SC, where farmers regarded thistle as a terrible weed in livestock pastures. My mother would swoop in and excavate any thistle-like intruder that attempted to make its home in her lawn. Cardoon is perennial in zones 7-10, and has a deep tap root that makes it difficult to eradicate. It tolerates most soil types, moisture levels, and acidity levels, and thrives in full sun.

Cardoon plants draw attention. They are tall (up to six feet when flowering), with prickly, toothed, gray-green foliage. The large flowers are purple. While the plant and the flower bud look like they should be edible, this is not the same plant as the edible artichoke (Scolymus Group, a subset of Cynara cardunculus). Their leaf stalks, however, can be harvested and cooked as a vegetable. The roots are reputed to be edible as well.

Cardoons need full sun and moist soil to look their best. They may go dormant in the hottest part of the year or during long periods without rain. Even in perfect soil conditions, they are dormant in winter, emerging in spring from their fat tap roots.

I have not been brave enough to plant a Cardoon in my garden. We had a native thistle that appeared along one of our groomed woodland paths last year. My husband admired it, and allowed it to stay. I should have been smarter and removed the spent flower head before it went to seed. Our admiration has dimmed this year, since every one of those seeds seems to have germinated. I foresee lots of hori-hori activity in the coming weeks as I grub out those roots.

Cardoon’s lovely purple flower

Prickly seed heads of Cardoon. The seeds are attached to fine fibers that allows wind to transport them to new locations.

Cardoon, growing in a friend’s garden, showcases prickly, toothed foliage.

Ready, Set, Prune

For those of you who have been eagerly waiting the go-ahead for shrub pruning, now is the time to cut back (if needed) those shrubs that flowered in earliest spring. Azaleas, Lilacs, and Forsythia can take a pruning now. If you wait until July, you will be removing the buds which will become next spring’s flowers. Please use hand pruners and cut stems to varying lengths so that new growth will make the shrub look full and lush.

Unless you are intentionally grooming shrubs into topiaries, do not use battery- or electric-powered hedge trimmers to transform them into cubes, pyramids, or round balls, commonly called “meatball” pruning. I see this crime against nature most often with Loropetalum. I understand – many Loropetalums grow much larger than their labeled size. As the National Garden Bureau says, save meatballs for spaghetti night.

Don’t misunderstand. I have nothing against boxwoods in containers, trimmed into shapes. I appreciate the formality this can lend to an overall landscape design. My own garden has L-shaped boxwood hedges at the four corners of the pool, where they provide a little privacy for swimmers and prevent leaves of nearby oak trees from blowing into the water. It has taken several years for me to transform these hedges into a healthy condition. As is so often the case, the former owners had trimmed them to be wider at the top than at the bottom. The lower limbs were shaded by the upper growth and consequently the bottom third was leafless and ugly. In profile, the hedges looked like a Yield sign. I have gently coaxed them to be slightly narrower at the top than the bottom, and they have responded with a growth flush near the bottom. The hedges had grown to be taller than I am, so this season I opted for a major height reduction. Instead of hacking them to half their former glory, I first reached deep within the interior and removed the largest, oldest branches. This is “thinning,” as opposed to “shearing.” Once the selective pruning was complete, I did an overall size reduction, but opted to limit my shortening to approximately 75% of the initial size. This combination of cuts allowed sunlight to reach the interior and caused new growth the generate from dormant buds. It has been a few weeks, and they are well on the way to a renewed, healthy appearance. It is almost as if they are thanking me for bringing them light. Prune thoughtfully. Limit reduction to no more than 50% of the initial size to avoid shocking the plant.

So…What should you do about that Loropetalum that you need to prune hard two or three times every year just to keep it from covering your windows? My recommendation is to remove it and plant it in another location where it can grow unrestrained into its natural, loosely arched shape. Fill the empty space with a plant that will fit the desired size when it is mature. The replacement may look undersized for a year or so, but think of all the time you will save by not pruning. There are many, many dwarf shrubs available in the market, and more introductions every year. Know your soil type, sunlight exposure, and ideal shrub height before you go plant shopping, and then trust the recommendations of an employee at a dedicated plant nursery or garden center.

Boxwood hedge before cutback

Results of interior reduction

String to mark height line

Boxwood after all cuts

I saw this in a restaurant parking lot. It made me sad. Please don’t prune like this.

Plants for Mother's Day

Many of us are being bombarded with advertisements and articles offering suggestions for Mother’s Day gifts. One article said, “Don’t give her a robotic vacuum or an air fryer. In fact, stay away from anything kitchen related.” Suggested alternates included a cozy throw, a keepsake box, elegant photo frames, or jewelry. Maybe I am less domestic than other women, but I think most busy mothers of young children would fall to their knees with gratitude over a robotic vacuum, while a keepsake box would mean one more thing to gather dust. A throw that doesn’t complement current décor or colors will be stored in the linen closet, perhaps indefinitely.

During my years as a garden center employee, I saw well-meaning husbands and kids purchase hanging baskets or special houseplants for Mom. I knew that in a few weeks many of those Petunia baskets would be quietly discarded, and the Black-Eyed Susie vines that looked so great when they left the sales floor would become unattractive, stringy things unless pruned. Please, consider the recipient’s available time and gardening style before making a selection. Hanging baskets will need water every day in the heat of summer. On the surface, watering sounds like a minor demand. But combine that daily watering chore with childcare needs, shopping, laundry, meal preparation and housecleaning, and resentment can easily overtake appreciation, no matter what she said when presented with a plant she did not select. If she has never shown any desire to tend plants, either indoors or out, respect that inclination and look for a non-gardening gift. If the person you are honoring is a gardener, pay attention to what she grows every year and shop with purpose. A woman with a vegetable garden would appreciate a healthy tomato plant or a specialty pepper. Those who enjoy a mojito at the end of the day might appreciate a container of mint. Someone who loves hot colors would enjoy that fire-engine red Geranium.

Gardeners who eschew houseplants are secretly gritting their teeth when presented with a fiddle-leaf fig, a cyclamen, or an orchid. By gifting a plant with exacting needs, you force the recipient to seek a special environment to accommodate a prima dona. As someone who has killed an amazing number of orchids, violets, and peace lilies, I can attest to the fact that not all successful outside gardeners are good inside gardeners. If she is proud of her collection of orchids or African violets, feel free to add another to her collection. Don’t hesitate to ask what type of plant would be especially appreciated. Pay careful attention to the response – not all Hydrangeas or Camellias have the same requirements.

Please consider non-plant presents like garden gloves, a high-quality pair of hand pruners, a kneeling pad, or high-quality sunscreen. Eyebrows were raised when a friend of ours gave us a large bag of Black Kow composted manure as a wedding present more than three decades ago, but this friend understood our shared gardening hobby.

For years, my perfect husband gave me lovely jewelry at every occasion. I loved it. BUT, the year he gave me a gas-powered, rear-tined rototiller for Valentine’s Day, I almost swooned with excitement. That was a turning point in our marriage. Future presents included things like tractors, dump trailer, and a motorized utility vehicle with an electric tilting bed. I confess, a Dramm watering wand or a quality garden hose mean more to me than just about any plant from a garden center.  

Anemones for Spring and Fall

Whether you call it Spanish Marigold, Windflower, or Poppy Anemone, Anemone coronaria (pronounced ah-NEM-oh-nee kor-oh-NAR-ee-ah) makes a bright pop of color in spring gardens. The Saint Brigid series was bred in Hollard. Their flowers are semi-double and will tolerate a little more shade than the De Caen series, which was bred in France.

Anemones are tolerant of most levels of acidity and different soil textures, but they perform much better in loamy or sandy soils than they do in clay. Avoid wet soils, which may lead to root rot. Anemones are cold-hardy in zones 7-10. Plants may reach up to 18 inches in height, but no more than 8 inches in width, so they look best if grown with a fairly tight spacing – 6 inches or so. The bright flowers lose impact when they are spread more than a foot apart. Flowers are long-lasting when cut for the vase, but avoid contact with the milky sap. It may produce a blistering rash in sensitive individuals.

Anemones bulbs should be planted in fall. They are ephemeral, which means that they flower in spring and then their top foliage dies away until the following spring. They may reseed, or can be propagated by division after a couple of years. The bulbs are poisonous. They are not normally damaged by deer or rabbits.

Another Anemone, Anemone x hybrida 'Honorine Jobert', is not quite as well-behaved as the A. coronaria species described above. Honorine Jobert is taller (3-4 feet), with pure white flowers, yellow stamens and a green button center. It spreads aggressively through rhizomes. If you have a large, damp, sunny-to-part-shade area that you want to cover quickly, this is a low maintenance plant (except for the inevitable division, which may occur faster than expected). Honorine Jobert blooms in fall rather than spring, putting on a display for up to eight weeks or more. It is cold hardy in zones 4-8, and has the same blistering sap as its shorter, more colorful cousins.

Anemone has ferny foliage

Anemone flowers outlast daffodils, tulips

A close view of Honorine Jobert flower. The petals have a slight ruffle to them.

Silene, "Catchfly," a Native Winner

A couple of years ago, I purchased three tiny specimens at a native plant sale. They were labeled ‘Catchfly’ which caught my interest. A little research revealed that these were Silene caroliniana (sigh-LEEN kair-oh-lin-ee-AY-uh), and native to the southeast.

The plants didn’t do much more than survive their first year, but since then they put on a reliable spring show. Each plant formed into a rounded mound about ten inches tall and a similar width. Leaves are narrow and range in length from one inch to three inches. The rosy, five-petaled flowers look very much like phlox. The ‘catchfly’ name comes from the sticky hairs on the stems that discourage insects from eating them.  

Silene is easy to grow in full to part-sun, neutral to acidic soil, and any soil texture. They dislike wet soils but do well in gravely or sandy soil. Once established, they are drought tolerant and may be included in rock gardens, xeric gardens, or pollinator beds. Mine are in a sloped area that does not receive supplemental irrigation, and they have done fine without any extra care. Plants are semi-evergreen, and hardy in zones 5-8. Butterflies and hummingbirds visit the flowers, which occur only in the spring. The rest of the year, they are innocuous clumps of foliage that are easy to overlook.

I would like to have more Silene, but I have not attempted to propagate it yet. I understand that they can be raised from stem cuttings, but I hope that they will self-seed and spare me the trouble.

I’m always happy to discover a native that works for me, and Silene is a winner

Photos from the Garden, early April 2026

I was in full spring planting mode this week, so there was no time for plant research. Instead, today’s blog is a simple photo-capture of what is happening in the Snoddy garden at the moment.

Above the rock wall near my guest parking area, a row of dwarf crested iris are putting on their spring show. They are interplanted with yellow daylilies and orange turk’s cap lilies, which will add color later in the season. Behind the Iris, a native Grancy Graybeard (Chionanthus virginicus) is in full flower. I found six other Chionanthus growing wild in my woodlands this week, along with at least a dozen native Piedmont (pink) azaleas. On my To Do list for this summer: Clear out the scrub trees and vines around these so they have a better environment. Here is a bit of trivia: The taller the Iris, the later it flowers.

Iris and Chionanthus

I am determined to improve the soil in my planting beds, so they get a top-dressing of soil conditioner twice yearly. It will breakdown quicker than a coarser mulch, but looks refined. The soil will be great if I live to be 100+. I weeded and conditioned the beds nearest the house before I moved all the annual seedlings from the greenhouse into their summer locations.

Candytuft (Iberis) in the front and Homestead Verbena flower early, giving an uplifting spot of color before everything else starts blooming. The open areas are now filled with Zinnia, Gomphrena, and Melampodium seedlings. This is a small area, so I am limiting my number of colors to yellow, salmon, and purple.

I have an area with a narrow, steep slope that makes mowing dangerous. It is between the kitchen foundation wall and the firepit on the north side of the house. The Zoysia sod was becoming thin and sickly from lack of sun. With help from my husband, I removed it and replaced it with stepping stones and sprigs of dwarf Mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonicus ‘Nana’). It looks pitiful right now, but in two years it will have filled in and offer a carefree lawn alternative. The stepping stones were a gift from my sister. When time allows, I will paint them with a slurry of concrete dye to make them mimic the color of the foundation wall.

Since this photo was taken, I have added two more stepping stones at the base of the steps as a landing pad.

The weather forecast contains a couple of cool nights ahead. We always have a cold snap after our last frost date — April 15, in my area. My grandmother called this “blackberry winter” and my blackberries are in flower right now.

Whether your garden consists of acreage or a single patio container, I wish you success in the coming growing season.

New to Me: Centrantherum, Lark Daisy

Tender garden perennials that cannot survive winter temperatures in colder zones can still be grown as annuals. Such is the case with Centrantherum, also known as Lark Daisy. Last fall, I was part of a cleanup team at a local arboretum when I saw Centrantherum for the first time. It was covered in nickel-sized blue-lavender flowers and had pretty, deeply-toothed leaves. Best of all, the bruised foliage smelled like pineapple. In addition to Lark Daisy, other common names include Pineapple Thistle, Pineapple Weed, or Brazilian Bachelor's Button. Plants are native to South America.

As we pulled and discarded the plants as part of a bed cleanup, I took a cutting. Once home, I divided that cutting into three parts and attempted to propagate them. All three struck roots and grew into good-sized plants in my home greenhouse. They will go into the ground in my zone 8 garden next week, when freezing weather should be past.

My research reveals two species, C. punctatum and C. intermedium. Most sites say that the plants are winter hardy only in zones 10-12, but San Marcos Growers indicates they are root hardy to 25 degrees and top growth is hardy to about 30 degrees.

Mature plants may reach 18-inches tall and wide. They will spread by seeds in warm areas but are not considered invasive, although they are considered weeds in the warmest parts of Florida. My three specimens struggled with insect issues in the greenhouse, and had to be treated for whiteflies, mealy bugs, and spider mites. The plants prevailed, as you can see from the accompanying photograph. Since they are not winter-hardy in my area, I will save seeds from this season’s flowers to sow for following years. Starting from seeds seems to be an easier solution.

Centrantherum is easily grown in full sun, and has moderate water needs. It is resistant to damage from rabbits and deer. Butterflies visit the flowers. Plants have an extended bloom period.

These three Centrantherum have grown from tiny cuttings into full gallon-size plants. They are being hardened off now, and will go into the ground next week.

Pretty Pulmonaria

One of the prettiest plants in the spring shade garden is Pulmonaria (pronounced pul-mo-NARE-ee-ah). I love the way its flowers open pink, then turn purple, and then change to a deep blue. Even after the flowers fade, the leaves have attractive white blotches. I have tried to grow this plant in my own shade garden several times without success. It wasn’t until I did research for this blog that I discovered the root cause (pun intended) of my failures.

Pulmonaria likes shade, which I have. It is winter hardy in zones 3 to 8, but it also likes a soil that leans alkaline, while mine is acidic. It is a bit demanding with soil moisture. It prefers a moist soil, but will rot if too wet. Dry soil spells death. If you follow this blog regularly, you know that I am not fond of watering.

If you have the correct conditions, Pulmonia will spread slowly but is not considered invasive. Plants are propagated by division, best done in autumn. A mature plant reaches about twelve inches in height.

One of the common names for Pulmonaria is Lungwort because in Medieval time the plant was used as a treatment for diseased lungs. Leaves are edible but not tasty. Deer and rabbits tend to leave them alone, but pollinators visit the flowers.

Pulmonaria flowers open as pink, then turn purple, before they mature to a deep blue.

Mature flowers

Pulmonaria is pretty even when its not blooming. Its leaves look like Hosta with freckles.

Spring Garden Jewelry: Pearl Bush

If you seek an uncommon spring-flowering shrub for your garden, consider Exochorda racemosa (pronounced ek-so-KOR-da ra-see-MO-sa ), commonly called Pearl Bush. These shrubs have white flowers that appear slightly later than Forsythia blooms and put on a show for several weeks. Pollinators flock to the non-fragrant flowers. Two cultivars are found in garden centers, ‘Snow Day® Blizzard' and ‘The Bride.’ Both reach four to five feet tall. The former is a  little denser and more refined in appearance than the latter.

Pearl Bush is hardy in zones 5-8, and prefers an acidic to neutral soil in full sun to partial shade. Best flowering occurs in full sun. It is heat-tolerant and moderately drought-tolerant once established.

The round flower buds resemble pearls, hence the common name. Flowers appear on previous year’s growth, so prune right after flowering. The post-flowering period is unremarkable. Pearl Bush is deciduous, so it is best included in a mixed border with later flowering shrubs and evergreens to detract once it is past its peak. It is rarely troubled by insects or diseases.

Pearl Bush in full flower

Customize Your Own Cocoa Liners

It’s time to start work on this year’s container plantings. Many years ago, I received a triple-tier garden planter as a gift. It was six feet tall with wire mesh bottom and decorative sides, and was meant for use with cocoa liners. Of course, cocoa liners break down by the end of a single season, so they became an annual cost. The size of the largest two levels meant this was a hefty expense. Because I am thrifty (read: cheap), I decided to experiment with a different method. I am sharing my success with you in this blog.

The condensed version: Make your own liners. Sew them into place. Line the liners with landscape fabric. Fill with soil and plant.

Now for the non-condensed version: Instead of continuing to purchase pre-cut liners, I bought an entire roll of cocoa mat. These are available in different sizes; I purchased the largest one I could find. It was a substatial initial cost, but the length of the roll meant I would have material for many years into the future. I used a scrap piece of material (old tablecloth) to cut a pattern for each of the three tiers. I thought I could use landscape scissors or pruners to cut the liner material, but it was tougher than I thought possible. I dulled several pairs of scissors and a pair of metal-cutting shears before I thought to wet the material. I used a large galvanized tub intended for farming use. Bingo! Soaking the roll in water for about 30 minutes made the trimming process easy, if somewhat messy. Warm water made it ever easier.

If you don’t want to purchase an entire roll of cocoa liner, check out better nurseries or farm supply stores. Many will sell this material by the foot during the spring gardening rush. This photo was taken years ago, so the price shown is not accurate in today’s market.

This was one of my first cut-to-size attempts. The jagged edges show where I tried to use scissors. The smooth edges were where the liner was cut after soaking.

Once the cutting process was complete, I placed those pieces into the appropriate level of the container and secured it into place using clear fishing monofilament and an upholsterer’s needle (looks like a regular sewing needle but 6 inches long and sturdy). It was simple to push the needle through the cocoa mat and wrap it around the metal frame. The clear monofilament was invisible against the wire frame of the baskets.

I used an upholstery needle (green arrow points to it) and clear monofilament fishing line to secure the cocoa liner to the metal frame.

Next, I used the same fabric to cut permeable landscape fabric to a slightly smaller size as each of the cocoa liners. I held the landscape fabric in place with a couple more monofilament stitches.

After this circle was cut, I trimmed it a bit to make it slightly smaller than the cocoa liner.

Finally, filled the baskets with soil and plants. The landscape fabric allowed water through but kept the potting soil from working its way into and through the cocoa mat. The fabric slowed water enough to ensure the potting soil was soaked through but not so long that roots were soggy.
This combination of steps took time, but the basket liners lasted five years before they needed replacing. I probably could have gotten through a sixth year if I had not accidentally cut through the landscape fabric when I was digging out spent plants.

This is the fall cleanup after three years. Old plants have been pulled out. New potting soil will be poured in so that the baskets will be ready for spring planting. The hot-pink duct tape on the handle of the soil scoop helps me find it.

Triple tier planted in primary colors

Triple tier with cut Christmas greenery

If you use standard cocoa liners for hanging baskets, this effort may be beyond what you are willing to do, but if you have oversized baskets, give it a try.

Learning Something New: Vivipary

Just when I start feeling good about my level of gardening knowledge, something comes along that shatters my illusion. Last month, for instance, my friend Karen brought an example of vivipary to my attention. I had never heard the term. What is vivipary? It is when seeds sprout while they are still inside the fruit. It is seen most often in tomatoes, peppers, wheat, and corn. It is also common in mangroves, but we don’t grow those in my part of the southeast.

Vivipary happens when the fruit or vegetable is under stress, whether from too much or too little water or a nutrient deficiency. Over-ripe tomatoes are prone to it, and my friend’s tomato was advertised as “vine ripened” at the local grocery. Tomatoes should always be stored at room temperature, as refrigeration gives them a mealy consistency and makes them more prone to this internal sprouting. My guess is that this tomato was shipped to the grocery store in a cool container that stressed it.

Sprouting occurs when the seed’s hormones (gibberellin and abscisic acid, usually) become unbalanced. When the conditions listed above throw the hormones out of whack, the result is broken seed dormancy.

The photos here tell the story.   

This “vine ripened” tomato appeared to have a case of teenage acne — and then plants burst through the skin!

Karen cut off the bottom-most portion of the tomato shown above and planted it in soil. Behold: healthy plants! More plants have emerged since this photo was taken. Cool, yes?

Another example: Corn kernels have decided to grow into new plants, still attached to the cob.

Gramody, CC BY-SA 2.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0>, via Wikimedia Commons

Fruits that have vivipary are safe to eat, but it’s a bit creepy to see little seeds sprouting in the midst of a tomato slice.

Do's and Don'ts of Torch Weed Control

I would not characterize myself as an organic gardener, but I am very careful about using chemicals around my gardens. So, it shouldn’t surprise anyone that I once decided to take a non-chemical approach to removing weeds from the cracks of the brick walkway that divided my vegetable garden from the adjacent perennial bed.

It was a late Sunday afternoon in autumn, warm enough but a heavy overcast sky made it seem cooler. I casually asked my husband, Saint Jim, “Say, don’t you have a propane torch?” I got an affirmative answer, then asked him to show me how to use it. Decades of togetherness meant he was smart enough not to question the wheres or whys of such inquiries. But he did give me a short demonstration, then watched me burn weeds in the garden long enough to ensure that I wasn’t going to set myself afire before he returned to the comfort of the house.

In case you are considering the live flame approach to ridding your spring garden of weeds, let me share a few voice-of-experience recommendations. 

1. You should reconsider the use of a propane torch if your beds are outlined with cedar posts or your brick pathways are defined by landscape timbers. Both are flammable. In this case “reconsider” may be defined as “don’t.” 

2. Lush green weeds like pigweed, dandelion, and thistle refuse to turn black and crumble when confronted with a blowtorch.  Only after concentrated attack do they succumb, somewhat reluctantly.  Leaves and grass that was already dead, on the other hand, burn quite nicely. If you amend your vegetable garden with lots of soil conditioner, as I do, you know that soil conditioner is mostly pine bark. Translation:  highly flammable.  Given the right conditions (warm, overcast, dry) it is possible to set one’s garden soil on fire. Trust me on this one. 

3. Do not lean directly over the torch as you cook your weeds. Bangs and long hair singe just as quickly as dead leaves.

4. Be certain that your garden hose is hooked up to a water supply, is turned on and at hand, should you need a rapid extinguish. 

5. Finally (and probably should have been first), if your gardens are protected from deer damage by an electric fence, switch OFF the power BEFORE commencing the weed-cooking operation.  Then, if you should need to lean over said electric fence to attach hose to water bib, you won’t find yourself a human experiment on the strength of bladder muscles when exposed to an electrical pulse strong enough to repel a hungry buck deer.

If you are going to rid your garden of weeds by using an herbicide (hey, no judgement here – just follow the label exactly when mixing concentrates with water), maybe use a narrow paint brush or cheap foam brush to apply thirty cents worth weedkiller to the nasties in your garden rather than using three dollar’s worth of propane to do a poor job of weed removal and worse job of hairstyling.

You’re welcome.

This image is AI generated. I did not capture the embarrassing reality of the fire in my own garden.

From Almost Dead to Specimen Plant

I will go to extraordinary lengths to keep a plant from dying in my garden. Occasionally, I even rescue those almost-dead specimens marked down for final sale at a home improvement store, hoping to nurse them back to health. There are other plant rescuers out there. If you know, you know.

One of my more memorable rescue projects was an upright juniper I found on clearance at a local garden center. The tag was long gone, so its cultivar was a mystery. It had clearly outgrown its too-small pot, and large patches of dead foliage were scattered throughout the plant.

I brought the pitiful specimen home, planted it immediately, and lavished it with attention. Within a few months, fresh growth appeared, but the plant was still dotted with brown needles that shed like a months-old Christmas tree every time a breeze touched it. That’s when I decided to give it the “poodle” treatment, also known as cloud pruning.

The method is straightforward. Begin by removing all dead limbs and any discolored foliage. Use sharp, clean tools. Then step back and study the plant’s structure. Identify the strongest limbs to keep, and prune away the others with clean cuts flush to the main trunk. The goal is to reveal the trunk and create an open, layered framework. Aim to space the remaining limbs evenly and horizontally around the trunk, like the spokes of a wagon wheel. Go slowly, as once limbs are gone, they cannot be recovered.

Once the heavy pruning is complete, switch to hand clippers. Remove foliage closest to the trunk while allowing growth to remain at the outer tips of each limb. With a light touch, shape these tufts into rounded or oval forms (think soccer balls or footballs) to create the cloud effect.

Because poodling is a radical treatment, the plant will need extra attention to recover. Provide consistent water and fertilizer to encourage vigorous regrowth. As new growth emerges, use utility scissors to refine the outer edges of the pom-poms. In late spring or early fall, remove any aggressive shoots that threaten to disrupt the shape. Patience is essential. It may take a year or two for a plant to complete its transformation from nearly-dead to camera-ready.

Trees that respond well to this style include junipers, pines, cypress, privet, and yew (Taxus). Young plants are easiest to train, but even older, unattractive specimens can be transformed from ugly ducklings into swans. Fast-growing plants such as privet may require shaping several times a year, while slower growers may need attention only once per year. In Japan, this pruning technique is known as Niwaki, and has been elevated to an art form. If you are a visual learner, check out the many demonstration videos available on YouTube.

When done correctly, poodling or cloud pruning produces a plant that resembles bonsai. The key difference is that bonsai are grown in containers, while cloud-pruned trees and shrubs are cultivated in the ground.

Conifer before poodling

Conifer after poodling

Near this commercial parking lot, a poodled conifer makes sharp contrast with Colorguard yucca. The photo was taken in winter, when there was little else of interest in the garden islands.

In this example of cloud pruning, the pom-poms are so close that they do not allow one to see through.

Temperature Fluctuations and Soil Heave

Weather in the southeast is reliably unpredictable. Conditions can shift quickly between cold and warm temperatures, heavy rain and drought, or even sleet and snow, often within a short period. After recent snowfalls melted, many gardeners noticed patches of soil pushed upward, as though something beneath the surface had forced it skyward. This phenomenon is known as frost heave.

What causes it? Frost heave occurs because water expands as it freezes. A familiar example is a canned beverage left in a freezer. As the liquid solidifies and expands, it can rupture the container. A similar process takes place in the soil. Following a rainy period or in areas with poor drainage, a sudden drop below freezing causes moisture in the ground to form ice. As the ice expands, it lifts the surrounding soil. In areas of bare soil, you can sometimes see obvious evidence, commonly called ice needles or rime ice. When the ice thaws, soil is left suspended on small air pockets. The ground looks disturbed, almost fluffy. Frost heave can damage house foundations and give rise to potholes in paved streets or driveways. It can push garden bed edging out of their locations, leading to an uneven appearance. It is more common in silty soils than in clay.

The repeated freeze–thaw cycle can push plants upward, exposing tender roots to air and cold temperatures. This exposure can be fatal during subsequent freezes. To minimize damage, gently press raised soil back into place to eliminate air pockets around roots. Light foot pressure is usually sufficient.

For widespread frost heave in sodded lawns, a weighted roller can help restore firm contact between grass roots and soil. Use caution: excessive compaction may damage dormant turf. Likewise, avoid driving over frost-heaved lawns, as vehicle weight can kill dormant sod.

While it is difficult to prevent frost heave, mulch serves as an effective soil insulator, moderating temperature extremes and reducing its likelihood. Well-aerated, well-drained soils are also less susceptible.

If you are unsure whether frost heave has occurred, walk through the affected area. Heaved soil typically feels soft or spongy underfoot, an early indicator that corrective action may be needed.

“Rime ice” or “ice needles” has pushed areas of soil above the surface.