Ajuga

Few perennials look great through the entire year. In the Mary Snoddy garden, a patch of Ajuga (pronounced ah-JOO-gah) has survived all manner of abuse: being trampled underfoot during our home renovation, record-breaking rain, record-breaking cold, full sun in what used to be full shade, and general disrespect. It does not look great, but I marvel at the fact it survived at all. We have had two days of warm sun, and it is pushing out fresh new leaves.

Ajuga reptans is an easily grown, aggressive, short groundcover. It is available in shades of bright chartreuse, deepest burgundy or chocolate, and a lovely sage green, white, rose combination. Textures vary from fine blades (‘Chocolate Chip’) or broad leaf (‘Black Scallop’). Newer cultivars broaden color choices to bronze, yellow, orange, and red. Look for the Feathered Friends™ series for something truly unusual.

Ajugas thrive in partial sun or shade. Blue flowers in spring are a bonus. These undemanding groundcovers spread quickly, giving rise to some gardeners’ assessment of the plant as invasive. (It is a member of the mint family). It will grow and even thrive in many situations where other plants, including grass, won’t grow: deep shade, dry soil, or under Black Walnut trees. It will tolerate minor foot traffic. Plants can be so vigorous that congested areas die. Prevent this by division. Ajuga is resistant to damage from deer and rabbits. Other than dieback from congestions, their only problem is root-rot when placed in wet soils.

Ajuga reptans ‘Burgundy Glow’ has a lovely pink and white variegation that lights up daker areas in the shade garden.

Fine leaf Ajuga reptans ‘Chocolate Chip’ softens the edges of a brick walkway.

Toad Lily Heralds Autumn's Onset

When Toad Lilies start to bloom, I know that autumn is arriving. Toad Lily is a common name for either Tricyrtis hirta (“Hairy Toad Lily”) or Tricyrtis formosana (“Formosan Toad Lily”). It is difficult for me to distinguish between the two visually. Leaves of Tricyrtis hirta are noticeably hairy to the touch. The flowers resemble small orchids, with inner petals and outer sepals that look like petals. Most are white with purple freckles, about one inch across. They can be held individually, but usually occur in clusters. Upward-facing flowers form on arching stems, above alternate leaves held in a ladder-like arrangement. Plants may reach 36 inches but are usually shorter. The intricate flowers are best appreciated when viewed up close. Site them near patios or seating areas if possible.

Toad Lily likes partial to full shade and acidic-to-neutral, moist soil with plenty of organic matter. Hirta is cold hardy in zones 4-8; formosana is cold hardy in zones 6-9. In the Mary Snoddy garden, they pair well with hosta and ferns. They will spread slowly by seeds or rhizomes, and are not invasive. Tricyrtis is pronounced tri-SUR-tiss.

Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds visit the flowers. Plants are occasionally bothered by aphids, which can spread a viral disease, or by anthracnose fungus, which causes orange spots on the leaves. Use soaker hoses rather than overhead watering to prevent anthracnose. Treat aphids with an insecticidal soap rather than a chemical insecticide to avoid harming pollinators. Rabbits like to nibble on foliage. I use Milorganite in the Snoddy garden as a deer repellant, and it seems to have kept the bunnies away also. Now if I could find something non-toxic that would repel voles…

This Toad Lily is just beginning to bloom. Note the overlapping leaves along the stem. The swollen nodes along the stem are buds, waiting to open into flowers.

Delicate Trout Lily for Earliest Spring Bloom

In late winter, stumbling across a blooming patch of Trout Lily is an unexpected bonus,  like discovering a $20 bill in the pocket of a rarely-worn jacket. Erythronium americanum, Trout Lily, is sometimes called the Yellow Dogtooth Violet or Adder’s Tongue. It would take an active imagination to conjure the delicate yellow flowers with brown or bronze reverse into a fish, canine teeth, or a snake’s tongue.

This lovely ephemeral is native to the eastern US. “Ephemeral” means “fleeting,” which is exactly how this plant behaves. It blooms in early spring before tree leaves emerge, about the same time as Crocus. Soon after flowering, the plant produces seeds and then withers away. The seeds will eventually develop into corms, a type of bulb. They are sold as corms, not seeds. Plant in fall for best results. Most corms prefer shallow planting, but Trout Lily likes a deep hole (five inches) which seems unusual for such a small bulb. The seeds are spread around by ants.

Plants thrive in moist, shady woodlands with acidic soils. It takes a year or two for juvenile plants to start blooming. Juveniles are easy to spot since they only produce a single leaf rather than the paired leaves of mature specimens. Plants reach a mere six inches in height, with the bloom stems slightly taller. Older plants may stop flowering if the bulbs become too congested. In this case, lift and divide just as the plants begin to go dormant.

Trout Lily leaves have a mottled appearance. Flower petals curl back toward the stem, described by botanists as recurving. Blooms are one- to three-inches in diameter. Flowers contain six yellow stamens and reddish-brown anthers. There is a less common white form, E. albidum, whose white flower petals are flushed with lavender on the reverse side. Adder’s Tongue, E. propullans, is  a pink-flower form found only in Minnesota. Strangely, it bears a small bulblet halfway up the stem.

Trout Lily looks delicate but it is quite sturdy, making its appearance early in the year when frosts and freezes are still common. The flowers attract bees. The corms, unfortunately, are tasty to small forest critters although deer usually leave them alone. Protect them with a circle fence of buried fine-mesh wire or a gravel moat. Since I have both cats and dogs, I researched their toxicity. One source said that the bulbs were edible, with a cucumber-like taste. Another said that the bulbs were an emetic (makes one vomit). No further testing on my part! I opted for the protection of the wire mesh to prevent my pets from tasting.

The bronze backs of the Trout Lily petals are evident in this photo. Note the mottled leaves.

Trout Lily bloom detail

Heuchera for Year-Round Beauty

When the winter garden is clothed in dormant twigs and fallen leaves, a touch of lively color lifts the spirit and reminds us that spring lurks ahead. Heuchera is a colorful group of perennials that are hardy from zones 4 to 9, depending upon variety and lineage. Modern cultivars have parents in H. villosa and H. americana. In the south, Heucheras (common names: Coral Bell, Alumroot) withstand hot and cold temperatures and look good every month of the year. Tiny blooms, a favorite of butterflies, are held atop wiry stems, but Heucheras are grown for their outstanding foliage. Cultivars have caramel, rose, lime, purple or green leaves marked with silver, red or white.

The lovely chartreuse green ‘Citronelle’ is one of the most heat tolerant cultivars. Grow it in shade to partial shade, where the leaves will be more yellow than green. Full sun leads to crispy edges and bleached leaves. I planted dozens of these in a lightly shaded bed. Within three years, there was only a single survivor. Each one got smaller and smaller, dwindling down to a single leaf before disappearing completely. I finally discovered the key to success – well-drained soil. The native heavy clay soil of upstate South Carolina mandated container culture, enhanced by fertile, well-drained potting soil and frequent watering. I plucked the lone ‘Citronelle’ specimen from the ground and placed it in a container with two other Heucheras, a purple-leaf variety (lost the cultivar name) and ‘Caramel,’ with caramel-colored leaves. Instant success! I eventually moved ‘Citronelle’ to her own container and replaced her with ‘Key Lime Rickey.’ These three live shoulder-to-shoulder in a container which looks as good in February as in August. Two ‘Amber Waves’ plants look especially good in a pair of peachy-toned clay pots along a brick walkway. These are sited in full sun. (Evidently, they did not receive the notification that they were meant for shade.)

A trio of Heucheras (‘Caramel,’ ‘Key Lime Rickey,’ and an unidentified purple leaf cultivar). These three live in harmony all year long. The container looks this good even in winter.

Plant breeders introduce new cultivars every year, with an ever-broadening range of color and vein combinations. One thing I have learned about this wonderful plant: Catalog photos are taken when plants are at their very peak of beauty. Plants that exhibit gorgeous apricot and rose shades in spring (such as ‘Sweet Tea’ or ‘Peach Flambe’) may mature darker, even dirty-looking by August or September. My beloved ‘Berry Smoothie’ is raspberry-rose in spring but darkens to purple in winter. In catalogs, ‘Stop Light,’ is a beauty, with yellow-lime leaves marked with bright red veins. I have never been able to replicate the distinctive markings in my garden and had to settle for a red vein here and there. Purple-leaf forms age a bit better. ‘Obsidian’ is almost black. It looks especially good in containers with pink Begonias or Caladiums. Heucheras also pair well with smaller grasses, such as Lagurus ovatus ‘Bunny Tails.’

If a mature Heuchera develops an elongated stem, it is time to lift it and replant it to position the woody section under soil level. Remove tattered or crispy leaves at any time to keep the plant looking tidy. Heucheras are rarely browsed by deer or rabbits.

Finally, Heuchera is pronounced HEW-ker-ah. This one is mispronounced even more than Liriope. The first syllable rhymes with Yew. Get it right and you have risen to the upper echelon of gardeners.

'Amber Waves' ruffled, peachy leaves

'Berry Smoothie' plum and silver leaves

Red and Green Groundcovers

Mother Nature is celebrating the holiday season by decorating with red and green. On a walk through the woods , you might spot Partridgeberry (Mitchella repens) or American Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens). Both these groundcovers have deep green leaves, white blooms in late spring/early summer, and red berries in fall/winter.

American Wintergreen, also known as Boxberry, Checkerberry or Eastern Teaberry, is a woody, evergreen, mat-like groundcover. It has tiny white flowers that are shaped like smooth urns. In fall and winter, bright red berries, about the same size as a single Nandina berry, contrast attractively with the deep green foliage. Wintergreen is a member of the Ericaceous family It prefers poor, acidic soils and the company of hardwood trees. The white or pale pink blooms are shaped like upright cups. Flowers are mildly fragrant, but one almost needs to be on hands and knees to catch the scent.

Partridgeberry is commonly called Twinflower because its blooms are held in pairs. Partridgeberry has two distinctly different types of blooms. One has a long pistil and four short stamens. The other is exactly the opposite: one short pistil and four long stamens. A very close look (think magnifying glass or at least a good pair of reading glasses) at the Partridgeberry bloom reveals its fuzzy appearance. It produces a beautiful red berry similar to Wintergreen. When squeezed, the Partridgeberry fruit will separate into two parts; the Winterberry remains solid.

Both Wintergreen and Partridgeberry are found across most of the eastern United States. They thrive in shady woodlands. The easiest way to distinguish the two is to crush a leaf or sample taste a berry. Wintergreen has the distinctive scent and taste of, well, wintergreen. Partridgeberry leaves have no scent and the fruit is tasteless. Another distinguishing characteristic is that the Partridgeberry leaf has a lighter vein running the from stem to tip. Wintergreen does not have this noticeable feature.

Both these plants grow only a few inches tall, but spread indefinitely to form a  gorgeous carpet for the forest floor. They are frequently found growing shoulder to shoulder in zones 3 through 7. Partridgeberry tolerates more heat; its growth area extends to zone 8. Birds and other wildlife eat the berries.

Red berries rest atop the dark green leaves of Mitchella repans like Nature’s Christmas ornaments

The twosome flowers of Mitchella repans illustrates one of its common names, Twinflower. A persistent berry from last year is visible in the 12 o’clock position.

Perfect Plant Pairings

When two things work together to create something that is better than the two standing alone, that is called “synergy.” When two garden plants work together, that is called “delightful.” A perfect example is the combination planting in the Mary Snoddy garden of Arum italicum and Hosta.

Every good gardener knows or grows hosta. These shade-loving perennials vary in size from tiny (‘Blue Mouse Ears’ is four inches tall) to giant (‘Empress Wu’ can reach forty inches in height and almost six feet in width). Leaf colors range from blue-green to chartreuse, with every green shade between. Accents can be white or cream, or include reddish leaf stems. Leaf shapes can be rounded, pointed, cupped, twisted. Fragrant blooms can be white or shade toward lavender. With 70 species and almost 3,000 registered varieties, gardeners can find one to fit their taste and size requirements. I suggest that you consult a reference book for size and preferred growing conditions. My favorite is The New Encyclopedia of Hostas, by Diana Grenfell and Michael Shadrack, published by Timber Press in 2009.

Hostas are one of the few plants that will do well in dryish shade. The only downside is their susceptibility to damage from deer and slugs. Hostas pop through the ground in spring, are gorgeous through warm seasons, but then wither and disappear with the onset of color weather. This is when Arum struts its stuff.

Italian Arum, sometimes called “Lords and Ladies,” is dormant through the hosta growing season. It pokes triangular heads through the soil about the same time that hostas are going nighty-night.  Those heads unfurl to glossy, arrow-shaped leaves that are marked with white veining. They reach 6 to 12 inches in height. The leaves remain gorgeous throughout our cold season. They grow in zones 6 to 9. Like hostas, they are prone to slug damage.

Unimpressive, tiny white arum blooms are followed by spikes of gorgeous, bright orange berries that persist after the leaves die down, at the onset of warmer temperatures.  Plants will slowly multiply themselves via fallen berries or you can help them along by harvesting and spreading the seeds. You can also divide the clumps when they are dormant (summer). Arum berry spikes are bigger with a little bit of sunshine, but leaves are larger in more shade.

A common slug/snail treatment is metaldehyde. It is toxic to cats and dogs, so here at New Hope Farm I opt for a non-toxic treatment based on iron phosphate that is safe for pets and people. (Sluggo is my brand of choice. There are others.) If you have a large snail population, you will probably want to reapply every two-three weeks, depending upon rainfall and irrigation.

Arum and hosta are a perfect pairing underneath deciduous trees.

This photo of Arum was taken in early March, last year. Note the emerging hosta leaves at lower right.

Immature Arum seeds. These turn bright orange when mature.

Sample of hostas, showing different leaf colors.