Fall bulbs

Plan Now for Fall Crocus & Colchichum

I was thrilled to see the first evidence of Crocus foliage pushing their way out of the frozen soil today. Crocus is the earliest bulb (corm, really) to flower in the Mary Snoddy garden, usually in February. At times they are frosted by ice or snow, which doesn’t seem to dampen their cheerful demeanor one bit.

As much as I enjoy these harbingers of spring, I prefer the Crocus that flower in October and November. You will notice that I did not say “Fall-flowering Crocus” or “Autumn Crocus.” There is a good reason why. There are two different flowers which bloom at the same time and look very similar to the unpracticed eye. One produces saffron threads, a culinary delight. The other can kill you if you eat any part of it. Seriously.

Fall-flowering Crocus, Crocus sativus, pronounced CROW-cuss suh-TAI-vuss, is also known as Saffron Crocus. It is grown for saffron spice, as noted above, but the orange-red stigmas are also used for dye. They will stain fingers and clothing. This plant sends up narrow, grass-like foliage before the flowers appear. Plants are small, usually reaching about six inches when they are in flower. C. sativus is cold-hardy in zones 5-8. They prefer a neutral to slightly alkaline soil in full sun. They are occasionally damaged by voles or rabbits.

Autumn Crocus is Colchicum autumnale, pronounced COAL-chik-um aw-tum-NAH-lay. It is taller (eight to ten inches) and its blooms are larger than C. sativus. It appears as a naked bloom, with no foliage at the time of flowering. Weak foliage appears in spring. It is more cold-tolerant (zones 4-10) than C. sativus, will tolerate a wider range of pH, and will withstand a bit more shade. The large pink or purple flowers look fantastic when they appear above a short groundcover like dwarf mondo grass, which also helps support the weak stems. All parts of the plant are highly toxic to people and pets. Deer and rabbits will not touch them.

Tiny C. sativus is planted 2-3 inches deep. Larger C. autumnale is planted 4-6 inches deep. Both these corms are small and flat, and look best when planted in groups or drifts. They will naturalize when planted in the lawn. Pollinators are attracted to the flowers.

Nerine, an Autumn Alternative

If you are looking for fall flowers that are not chrysanthemums or pansies, look no further than Nerine, an autumn beauty. Clusters of tubular blooms top long, sturdy stems. Strap-like foliage resembles its cousins, Amaryllis and Crinum. Like those two, Nerine are not bothered by voles, deer, or rabbits. Nerine flowers usually have a little bit of ruffle along the petal edges. The flowers are fragrant.

Nerine bulbs (common name “Guernsey Lily” or “Autumn Amaryllis”) are native to South Africa and are marketed as cold hardy in zones 8-10, but have survived under a pine needle mulch in my zone 7b garden for a decade. Flowers are available in pink, white, and rose. They make a long-lasting cut flower.  They will grow in full sun or partial shade. Nerine make excellent container plants as well. They bloom best when slightly root-bound, so don’t be in a hurry to move them to a larger container or to divide those grown directly in the ground until they become congested and stop flowering freely.

Bulbs are planted in spring, when dormant. Nerine are different from many other bulbs in that they want the topmost portion of the bulb to be above ground. This is called “planting to the shoulders.” If planted too deep, you will have nice foliage but few blooms. I am especially fond of any bulb that does NOT need me to dig a hole halfway to the core of the earth. Some bulbs insist on deep planting. This is a challenge if your garden consists of rocks and red clay.

Nerine plants like heat, and don’t emerge until night temperatures have warmed. They do not like to be moved; newly planted bulbs may sulk for a season. It is worth the wait. They are drought tolerant, but will bloom much better if given some additional water whenever leaves are visible. Do not water while they are dormant (winter to early spring).

I find that the bold foliage of Nerine, Crinum and Amaryllis poses a challenge in beds. These do not seem to pair well with other bulbs or perennials. One option is to give them each their own section of the garden. I have taken a different tactic this year, and combined all three in a single planting. The foliage is so similar that I cannot tell which is which. If all goes according to plan, the Amaryllis will put on a spring show, Crinum will take its place in summer, and Nerine will finish out the year.

Nerine pink.jpg

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Hurricane Lily

One of the common names for Lycoris radiata is Hurricane Lily. Other common names are “Magic Lily,” “Naked Ladies,” and “Spider Lily.” Since Hurricane Dorian recently threatened the southeastern US coast, “Hurricane Lily” seems most appropriate. “Magic Lily” and “Naked Ladies” refer to the growth habit. These bulbs put up their foliage in the season opposite to flowering. Those that are in bloom right now push up narrow, grass-like foliage in the spring. During summer, the foliage dies down and naked stems emerge to bloom in September. Some varieties are the opposite, pushing out foliage in autumn and flowering in the spring. “Spider Lily” comes from their long, prominent stamens.

Companies that sell Lycoris bulbs offer conflicting information about planting depth and name pronunciation. Some say Ly-COR-iss; others say LICK-or-iss. Select your favorite. Many sites call for planting depths of 5 inches. Others say that the bulbs should be planted barely under the soil’s surface. I have tried both depths in the Zone 7B Mary Snoddy garden and received much better results from a shallow planning.  

Lycoris bulbs resent being transplanted. It takes a couple of years for them to appear at their best. Be patient. The wait is worthwhile. Bulbs look prettiest when planted in groupings rather than a soldier-straight line. Plant 3-6 bulbs per square foot, spaced 4-6 inches apart, in full sun to partial shade. Flower stems reach up to 18 inches in height. They make long-lasting cut flowers. 

Lycoris are cold-hardy zones 6-10 and are resistant to pests and diseases. Don’t allow pets or children to eat them because of a mild toxicity.

The long curled stamens of Lycoris.

The long curled stamens of Lycoris.

Lycoris have naturalized in an open meadow.

Lycoris have naturalized in an open meadow.