Sturdy Spireas for Spring Color

Spirea was one of the first shrubs whose name I learned as a child. There was an enormous plant next to our kitchen door. In early spring, it was covered with clusters of white blooms on arching stems. It had almost no scent, but the flowers were impressive although short-lived. When I asked my mother what kind of “bush” it was, she told me (semi-accurately) that it was a Spirea Van Hootie. Now I know that it was a Spirea x vanhouttei. Moving to the front garden, I asked her for the name of a shorter shrub with deep pink blooms.“Spirea,” she responded. “How can this be Spirea if the other one is Spirea,” my six-year-old self inquired, “because they’re not the same color and they’re not the same size and they don’t look alike.” Her response: “Go ask your father.” (A lot of our conversations ended this way.) As an adult, I realize the smaller, pink-flowered cultivar was ‘Anthony Waterer,’ one of the oldest and still one of the most tolerant of heat, poor soil, and bad pruning.

As a genus, Spireas are hardy and long lived. There are numerous species, and new cultivars seem to arrive on market every year. Sizes range from tiny to giant; flower colors can be pink, white, or red, and can occur on branch tips or all along the stems. Old varieties have narrow blue-green leaves that neither impress nor disappoint. Some of the newer cultivars have brightly colored foliage which extends the beauty season beyond the bloom period. In the Mary Snoddy garden, a pair of Spirea japonica ‘Limemound’ throw bright yellow foliage in early spring, which darkens to a lime green when weather turns hot. Limemound has bright pink flowers that scream for attention against the yellow foliage. Viewers either ooh and ahh or walk away muttering something that might be “eyesore.” The Limemound’s foliage turns orange in autumn and then sheds entirely, leaving a winter framework that resembles a jumbled ball of sticks. I underestimated the mature size of these shrubs (three feet with an equal spread), so I am forced to prune hard every winter to keep them within the bounds of available space. This major pruning has no evident impact on the plants’ health.

Among the white-flowered variety, Spirea nipponica ‘Snowmound’ is a 3–5-foot shrub that looks like a fireworks display when in bloom. If you have space, old Van Hootie, Spirea vanhouteii will grow to ten feet tall and twelve feet wide. Nurseries may label the vanhouteii species as “Bridal Veil” or “Bridal Wreath” Spirea, but these terms are also used in marketing Spirea prunifolia and Spirea cantoniensis, similar but smaller in stature.

Spireas bloom heaviest on young stems, so pruning will force new growth and result in more flowers the following year. Pruning should be done as soon as the flowers fade and fall. Cut stems to varying lengths with hand pruners rather than using hedge trimmers to create a round ball. Plants are most attractive when one-third of the oldest branches are cut back hard and the remainder are pruned lightly. This maintains their graceful arching appearance. These shrubs look best when grown in groups or hedges rather than as single specimens. They perform well on slopes where mowing is treacherous.

Spireas tolerate most soil types and will withstand half-day shade, although flowering is better in full sun. Avoid wet sites. Most species are cold hardy zones 5-9 or even colder, but check the plant tag to confirm zone for your selection. They are rarely bothered by diseases, insects, or deer.

Spirea japonica ‘Limemound’ elicits comments that range from “Outstanding” to “Yikes!”

Spirea japonica ‘Limemound’ elicits comments that range from “Outstanding” to “Yikes!”

A close view of Spirea cantoniensis ‘Reevesiana’ flowers

A close view of Spirea cantoniensis ‘Reevesiana’ flowers

A young planting of Spirea cantoniensis ‘Reevesiana,’ perfectly sited at the top of a steep bank near a creek.

A young planting of Spirea cantoniensis ‘Reevesiana,’ perfectly sited at the top of a steep bank near a creek.

Sweep Into Spring with Scotch Broom

The beautiful red and yellow flowers of Cytisus scoparius ‘Burkwoodii’

The beautiful red and yellow flowers of Cytisus scoparius ‘Burkwoodii’

“Scotch Broom,” the common name for Cytisus, doesn’t conjure up images of splendor. It makes one think of Cinderella, sitting fireside and sweeping up embers. But when any genus has 27 species, 10 hybrids, and 10 named cultivars, it’s significant. In spring, the bright yellow blooms of common Scotch Broom light up waste areas and unmanicured roadsides. When not in bloom, the shrub is gangly, with a weeping habit and teeny tiny leaves clinging to angular green stems that resemble (in my mind) skinny green Twizzler candy. Some plants are evergreen (stems, usually) but most lose their leaves in winter. The shrub appears to be dead. In spring and in flower, it is one of Nature’s masterpieces.

Cytisus flowers resemble sweet peas or beans, to which family it belongs. Seed pods look like tiny black snow peas. Ripe pods burst with a pop and send seeds flying, giving rise to lots of offspring; brooms are listed as invasive in several states. If you don’t want the extras, pull them while they are small. The beautiful flowers ARE NOT EDIBLE. Leaves, stems are seeds are extremely toxic, and consumption can lead to death. Deer pass this one by.

Scotch Brooms are tough plants. They are hardy in zones 5-8. They thrive in full sun and heat, and ignore drought. While most are butter yellow, forms are also available in pale yellows, reds, pinks, and bi-colors. Cytisus scoparius 'Burkwoodii' put on quite a show in the Mary Snoddy garden, with gorgeous red/yellow bicolor blooms. In two years, however, it zoomed up to six feet tall and spent half the year looking like a collection of dead sticks. I pruned it severely (okay, I cut it off at ground level), and it promptly died. I decided to enjoy it in other peoples’ gardens thereafter. The weeping habit and frequent one-sidedness give it good potential for training to a trellis where it can be paired with an annual vine to conceal its post-bloom appearance.

Calling All Columbines

One of the stars among spring perennials is Aquilegia (pronounced a-kwil-EE-jee-a), also called Columbine. In the southeastern US, there are two common species, the hybrid Aquilegia x hybrida and Aquilegia canadensis, the Wild Columbine or Red Columbine. Less common but more impressive is Aquilegia vulgaris.

All prefer moist woodland soils and partial shade in the South. They will tolerate more sun in cooler zones. They are deciduous perennials in zones 3-8. They may go dormant before winter if soil stays dry. Provide supplemental irrigation in extended dry weather but do not allow soil to be boggy. Columbine foliage is finely cut, almost lacy in appearance, and may have a slight blue tint. The hybrids bloom in pastel shades of rose, blue, pink, yellow, white and bi-colors. Most flowers have long spurs. Aquilegia vulgaris has a two-layer double form without spurs that looks like a tiny Dahlia. Some of these have an ombre color pattern. A somewhat strange common name for these doubles is “Granny’s Bonnet.”

Columbines reach heights of one to three feet. They bloom in early spring, then fade into obscurity. They can be raised from seed, but will not bloom until the second season. They will reseed, but hybrid seedlings will not mimic the mother plant. Removing spent blooms encourages more flowers.

Deer and rabbits leave Columbines alone. Unfortunately, the plants are a frequent target for leaf miners. On a garden tour several years ago, the host proudly displayed her “variegated” Columbines. I didn’t have the heart to tell her that her plants were not variegated at all but had a serious leaf miner infestation. If plants show signs of miner damage, remove the damaged leaves but cutting off the entire stem. The plant will regenerate new leaves.

The native Wild Columbine, Aquilegia canadensis, departs from the pastel colors of their cousins and instead sports colorful red and yellow flowers. It will reseed and, unlike the hybrids, its offspring will have the same flowers. It is not prone to leaf miner damage. Different from the other species, Wild Columbine can be used in rain gardens, where they may be subject to wet conditions for days at a time.

All the Columbines make wonderful additions to shady woodland beds and pollinator gardens, where they are popular with butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. They look best planted in groups rather than singles.

blue columbine.jpg
red columbine.jpg

Prima Donna Pieris

Pieris japonica (pronounced pee-AIR-iss jah-PON-ih-kah) is a lovely evergreen shrub with a multitude of white bell -shaped blooms held in clusters in late winter to early spring. Flowers are occasionally pink-tinged. New growth is a bronzy red and young stems are yellow-green. Old bloom stems remain attached to the mother plant unless removed.

Pieris is not the easiest of shrubs to grow. It is a member of the heather family (“ericaceous”), which means it enjoys similar conditions as heath, azalea and rhododendron. Plants are hardy in zones 5-8. In the south, Pieris needs partial shade and consistently moist (not wet) acidic soil with plentiful organic matter. It must be shielded from winter winds.

It is easy to overlook that slow-growing Pieris, commonly called Andromeda or Fetterbush, can reach heights of twelve feet or more and up to eight feet wide. Unfortunately, they are prone to numerous problems, including leaf spots, lace bugs, scale, nematodes, and unexplained dieback. Both flowers and leaves are extremely poisonous to humans, cats, dogs, and horses. On the positive side, it is somewhat deer resistant.

Numerous cultivars are available.

Pieris blooms stand out against leathery, dark green leaves.

Pieris blooms stand out against leathery, dark green leaves.

Pieris.JPG

Pretty Petite Primroses

Grocery store flower departments are filled with potted Primroses, basal rosettes of crinkled leaves topped with velvety flowers of intense burgundy, purple, yellow, bi-colors. These members of the Primula family, sold for table-top décor, are subtropical plants treated as annuals. There are hundreds of Primula species. They vary in height from inches to more than three feet. Some grow in rock gardens, others at water’s edge.

In general, Primroses want shade, cool (not frigid) temperatures, moist soil with plentiful organic matter. Primula vulgaris, a yellow-flowered form, is perennial in zones 4-8. It has yellow flowers held in candelabra-like clusters and blooms the same time as Mertensia (Virginia bluebells), which shares the same cultural preferences and makes a great companion plant. The rosette leaves elongate after flowering, up to 8 inches. Given partial shade and plentiful moisture, plants will reseed. They can also be propagated by division after flowering. A row of Primroses makes a great pond-side border. Flowers attract bees.

Plants are prone to insect damage (aphids, thrips, slugs, spider mites) and fungal diseases. All parts are toxic to cats, dogs, and horses.

Primula vulgaris, Common Primrose, is anything but common.

Primula vulgaris, Common Primrose, is anything but common.

A row of Primroses, seen with neighbors Virginia Bluebells and Geranium. These woodland beauties outlasted the daffodil bloom at bottom right.

A row of Primroses, seen with neighbors Virginia Bluebells and Geranium. These woodland beauties outlasted the daffodil bloom at bottom right.

Enjoy these grocery-store Primroses as indoor plants, and discard when they begin to look tattered.

Enjoy these grocery-store Primroses as indoor plants, and discard when they begin to look tattered.

Enjoy Evergreen Clematis Armandii

Clematis armandii is a star among vines. Not only is it evergreen while most Clematis are deciduous, it boasts a marvelous fragrance. Flowers are white with touches of pale pink. Clematis are separated into different classes, with specific pruning times for each (see below). Armand Clematis blooms on old wood, meaning stems that are at least a year old. Pruning keeps the vines from developing into a congested thicket, and should be done immediately after bloom petals drop.

Armand blooms in early spring, attracting bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Glossy, narrow leaves are leathery with a thick texture. Plants are hardy in zones 7 through 9. They are rarely damaged by deer, but can cause a rash on gardeners with sensitive skin. Gloves are recommended, especially when pruning. Plants are toxic to people and pets.

This Clematis is thin stemmed with a delicate appearance but is a vigorous grower, and will reach 15 feet or more. Stems climb by twining around trellises or other supports. Vines drape gracefully and will sway in the breeze. Use on fences to provide privacy with a narrow footprint. Like other members of the Clematis clan, Armand prefers a cool home for its roots and a sunny (or mostly sunny) spot for its top growth. A mulched root zone will shade the roots against overheating and help to keep soil damp. Soil should be neutral to slightly alkaline, with plenty of organic matter. Plants will not tolerate wet soil.

There are two possible pronunciations for Clematis: kle-MA-tis or KLEM-a-tis.

Here is a cursory overview on Clematis pruning:

For purposes of maintenance, Clematis are grouped into three classes. Group 1 blooms on new wood only. Trimming should be restricted to the removal of dead wood and just enough shaping to keep them neat. These are the earliest Clematis to flower. Group 2 blooms on both new and old wood. Prune immediately after flowering ends. Trim only 6-8 inches. The goal is to force new growth, not to reduce size. Vines in this class bloom later than the first group. Group 3 is the easiest of all. Clematis in this class go dormant in winter. Cut off the dead vines just above ground level in winter. I usually handle this chore in late February, just after pruning hybrid tea roses. Since this class regenerates entirely each season, it is the last to bloom.

Of all Clematis, ‘Roguchi’ is my favorite cultivar. It is a lovely, long-blooming plant that will get a blog posts all its own, soon.

Clematis armandii bloom.JPG
Clematis+armandii+on+trellis.jpg
Clematis with white bench.jpg

Hydrangea Help - To Prune or Not?

“How and when do I prune my Hydrangeas?” This is one of the most common questions I receive. The answer is, “It depends.” It depends on whether your Hydrangea blooms on old wood or new wood or both. If you cannot identify the cultivar in your garden, it is hard to know when to prune. I saw this article from the National Garden Bureau, entitled The Hydrangea Danger Zone. I think it will help, so I’m passing it along to you, my wonderful gardening friends.

https://ngb.org/2021/03/18/hydrangea-danger-zone/

Image by Pexels from Pixabay

Image by Pexels from Pixabay

Pre-Spring Maintenance

Spring is just around the corner. It’s time to prepare your tools for the coming gardening season. Each time I use my favorite narrow-blade shovel (a Spear and Jackson “rabbit spade”) or my trusted Felco No. 2 pruners, I rinse them at day’s end to remove any dirt. Once they are dry, I give them a spritz of either a silicone lubricant or olive oil. I garden a lot more than I cook, so olive oil goes rancid faster than I can use it. I have a mist oil sprayer dedicated to garden use. This oil atomizer is not the only kitchen device that has been promoted from my kitchen. An electric turkey-carving knife is wonderful for dividing tough Hostas, while a serrated bread knife works great on Bearded Iris rhizomes. An ancient blender has been repurposed to mix moss and buttermilk into a slurry for aging concrete pots. Some people think my tool maintenance ritual is a bit obsessive. Those are the same people who wonder why I grow six different types of basil.

Before the grass-cutting season starts, check belts and sharpen blades on mowers. Inspect motorized tools like chippers or tillers, with oil changes or spark plug changes as needed.

Several years ago, I discovered a miracle product called slip paint and have become somewhat of an evangelist, praising its characteristics to anyone who will listen. It is a graphite-based product that reduces friction and makes surfaces slippery. I first heard about it from a farmer who used it to coat the inside of silos so that the contents would slide out easily. I decided to paint a coat on the underside of my lawnmower housing, so that wet grass would not clump and drop onto my lawn in unsightly blobs. This worked so well that I undercoated the grooming mower and bush hog that pair with our tractors. Next came the insides of metal wheelbarrows. The ultimate ~aha!~ was when I painted the inside of our dump trailer. We use the trailer for hauling mulch, wood chips, gravel, manure, potting soil, and the like. It has a battery-operated hydraulic tilt so that contents will slide out when the back gate opens. When the trailer floor and walls were untreated, damp mulch would stick and refuse to release even when the trailer was at its maximum tilt. At this sharp angle, it is impossible to climb into the trailer and push the contents out. Standing directly behind the open bed and trying to tease the stuff out is foolhardy. One unexpected discharge and you could be buried, resulting in injury or death. Now, with an annual wash and recoat with the slip paint, clumping is a distant memory.

I have included a photo of the friction-reducing paint I purchase from a local farm supply store. I’m sure other name brands are available. Go ahead and splurge on the gallon size. You’ll be glad you did.

20200922_105927.jpg

Delicate Trout Lily for Earliest Spring Bloom

In late winter, stumbling across a blooming patch of Trout Lily is an unexpected bonus,  like discovering a $20 bill in the pocket of a rarely-worn jacket. Erythronium americanum, Trout Lily, is sometimes called the Yellow Dogtooth Violet or Adder’s Tongue. It would take an active imagination to conjure the delicate yellow flowers with brown or bronze reverse into a fish, canine teeth, or a snake’s tongue.

This lovely ephemeral is native to the eastern US. “Ephemeral” means “fleeting,” which is exactly how this plant behaves. It blooms in early spring before tree leaves emerge, about the same time as Crocus. Soon after flowering, the plant produces seeds and then withers away. The seeds will eventually develop into corms, a type of bulb. They are sold as corms, not seeds. Plant in fall for best results. Most corms prefer shallow planting, but Trout Lily likes a deep hole (five inches) which seems unusual for such a small bulb. The seeds are spread around by ants.

Plants thrive in moist, shady woodlands with acidic soils. It takes a year or two for juvenile plants to start blooming. Juveniles are easy to spot since they only produce a single leaf rather than the paired leaves of mature specimens. Plants reach a mere six inches in height, with the bloom stems slightly taller. Older plants may stop flowering if the bulbs become too congested. In this case, lift and divide just as the plants begin to go dormant.

Trout Lily leaves have a mottled appearance. Flower petals curl back toward the stem, described by botanists as recurving. Blooms are one- to three-inches in diameter. Flowers contain six yellow stamens and reddish-brown anthers. There is a less common white form, E. albidum, whose white flower petals are flushed with lavender on the reverse side. Adder’s Tongue, E. propullans, is  a pink-flower form found only in Minnesota. Strangely, it bears a small bulblet halfway up the stem.

Trout Lily looks delicate but it is quite sturdy, making its appearance early in the year when frosts and freezes are still common. The flowers attract bees. The corms, unfortunately, are tasty to small forest critters although deer usually leave them alone. Protect them with a circle fence of buried fine-mesh wire or a gravel moat. Since I have both cats and dogs, I researched their toxicity. One source said that the bulbs were edible, with a cucumber-like taste. Another said that the bulbs were an emetic (makes one vomit). No further testing on my part! I opted for the protection of the wire mesh to prevent my pets from tasting.

The bronze backs of the Trout Lily petals are evident in this photo. Note the mottled leaves.

The bronze backs of the Trout Lily petals are evident in this photo. Note the mottled leaves.

Trout Lily bloom detail

Trout Lily bloom detail

A Groundcover as Container Specimen

When is a groundcover not used as a live mulch? When it is a container plant, of course. Lysmachia congestiflora ‘Walkabout Sunset’ has a beautiful, multi-colored leaf and clusters of bright yellow blooms. Initially the common name, Loosestrife, frightened me away from using this plant because I feared it might be invasive. I’m happy to report that this is not the case.

Several cultivars are available. All are low growing (to six inches) and will spread readily since they root wherever stem touches soil. This spreading habit makes it a great choice for edging in-ground water features. Lysmachia is a semi-evergreen perennial in zones 7b to 9a  In my 7b garden, I find ‘Walkabout Sunset’ sheds most leaves and looks dead by late winter but makes a rapid recovery when spring arrives. It will not tolerate temperatures below 15 degrees, so I take a small cutting in autumn and overwinter it in the greenhouse as added insurance against plant loss.

‘Walkabout Sunset’ performs best in part-sun, with a little shade in the hottest part of the day. It prefers damp to wet soil and is undemanding as to soil pH. I sited a potted specimen in full sun and found that it needed more additional water than I was willing to donate, so I relocated it to the raised portion of a birdbath. This solution kept the plant roots damp and gave birds and insects a place to perch when they visited the water source. Everyone was happy.

‘Walkabout Sunset’ is equally attractive when used as a sole container specimen or as an undercover to a taller plant. The variegated leaves have a blue-green stripe that pairs well with a similarly toned container.

You will note that I did not include the pronunciation above, as I normally do. Here goes: ly-si-MAK-ee-uh kon-jes-tih-FLOR-uh. I have observed that some well-known plant experts pronounce the third syllable with a long A while other make it a short A. I thought it would be easier to stick with the cultivar name, but then I found some plants tagged as ‘Walkabout Sunset’ and others as ‘Outback Sunset’ or ‘Waikiki Sunset.’ Are they the same? I cannot tell. What I can tell is that ‘Persian Chocolate’ has purple-ish foliage. Can’t wait to try it in a container with pink Begonias.

Lysimachia Walkabout Sunset 2.jpg

Perennial Bellflowers Ring a Long TIme

Oops – I did it again. Another impulse purchase of a plant that may not be a good choice for my area. One of the local grocery stores has strategically placed their flower section directly in my path, between the salad bar (packaged salads during the pandemic) and the fresh fruit. I’m already needy when I go in, and those small containers of cute potted plants seem to jump in my cart without my involvement. This week’s purchase was a pair of tiny (2.5-inch containers) Campanula. That was the only identifier on the label. No mention of the species. Sigh…

Campanula unknown species.JPG

It could be Campanula carpatica, C. glomerata, C. persicifolia, C. takesimana, C. rotundifolia, C. medium, C. punctata, or C. rapunculoides. The one thing all these species share is ease of growth. A few prefer cool summers. Most (but not all) have bell-shaped flowers. (The common name is Bellflower or Canterbury Bells.) Most are in shades of blue or purple, but a few are pink, lilac or even white. My newest acquisitions are a deep purple, with upward facing blooms. Unless appearances are deceiving, it will be a dwarf, spreading form.

In the Snoddy garden, Campanula punctata ‘Pantaloons’ has been a star performer during the last ten years. A single plant, situated in poor soil with partial shade, spread rapidly via rhizomes and seeds to make a large, lovely community without any deadheading, staking, fertilizing or watering. Campanulas prefer neutral to alkaline soil, but mine has done fine in acidic soil. The punctata species is perennial in zones 5 through 9. It has a long, long bloom period. Deer shun all Campanulas.

‘Pantaloons’ was a gift plant from the gentleman who taught most of my Master Gardener classes in 2002. He labeled the plant “Purple Pantaloons” which reminded me, oddly, of the saloon girls in old television Western shows like Gunsmoke. Mr. Maple is deceased now, but his memory lives on in my garden.

Campanula punctata. Image by GLady from Pixabay.

Campanula punctata. Image by GLady from Pixabay.

“Bearded Bellflower” showing the fuzzy threads that gave rise to the common name.

“Bearded Bellflower” showing the fuzzy threads that gave rise to the common name.

Blackberry Lily identifies as an Iris

Poor Blackberry Lily experienced an identity crisis. For years it was Belamcanda chinensis. Then in 2005, pesky taxonomists examined the DNA sequence and determined that it is not a lily, not a blackberry, and not Belamcanda. Instead, this freckled redhead of the plant world has a new identity: Iris domestica.

Regardless of the binomial name, Blackberry Lily is one tough customer. Like most other members of the Iris family, it has swordlike, ten-inch-long leaves that rise like fans from a rhizome (bulb).  The rhizomes prefer well-drained soil and full sun, and are hardy in zones 5 through 10. Plants will rot in wet soils; they are drought tolerant once established. Blackberry Lilies flower in mid-summer and will continue through early autumn. Five-petal blooms are typically orange with a touch of yellow in the center and attractive red spots, which gives rise to another common name, Leopard Lily. Flowers are held above the leaves atop thin stems and are so profuse in number that the plants are best given support (think circular hoops like those used for peonies or dahlias) so they are not toppled by weight or summer thunderstorms.

Belamcanda – oops! I mean Iris domestica – rhizomes prefer a planting depth of five inches. Plants aren’t choosy about soil type or pH. They will be a bit shorter when grown in poor, dry soil. The rarer yellow form is shorter and requires more moisture and a richer soil than the typical orange flower.

Blooms result in clusters of shiny black seeds that look exactly like large blackberries. Left alone, plants will self-seed into large colonies. Plants look best when they are not allowed to become congested, so be generous and share divisions with your gardening buddies. Tattered or yellow leaves can be removed any time of the year. Both flowers and mature stems are used in flower arrangements.

Do not allow your cats, dogs, horses, or kids to ingest the flowers or blackberry-look-alike seeds; they are toxic. Flowers attract butterflies and are rarely bothered by other insects or diseases. This low-maintenance plant is easy to grow.

A Blackberry Lily bloom. Notice the numerous buds hiding behind this flower.

A Blackberry Lily bloom. Notice the numerous buds hiding behind this flower.

Blackberry Lily seed pod.  "Blackberry Lily (DSC_0025), the blackberry." by Li-Ji is licensed under CC BY 2.0

Blackberry Lily seed pod. "Blackberry Lily (DSC_0025), the blackberry." by Li-Ji is licensed under CC BY 2.0

Sweet Breath Of Spring - in winter

The sweet aroma of “Breath of Spring” will make your head whip around in search of the source. Lonicera fragrantissima (a melodic pronunciation makes one want to use the Latin instead of the common name: low-NISS-er-ah fray-gran-TISS-uh-muh) blooms in mid- to late-winter. The tiny ivory blooms with yellow stamens are unexciting, but the scent will make you swoon. On a warm day, honey bees flock to the flowers. Common names include “Sweet Breath of Spring” and “Winter Honeysuckle” but don’t confuse it with Winter Jasmine, featured last week.

Like other members of the honeysuckle family, Breath of Spring can be intrusive. It is on the list of invasive shrubs for SC, GA, TN and VA.  Its seeds are spread by birds and critters. Prevent spread by hard pruning as soon as petals fall (mid-March in the Mary Snoddy garden) before seeds ripen. Since Lonicera blooms on new growth and grows like the wind, cutting it back almost to ground level results in plentiful flowers in the next bloom cycle.  Without pruning, it grows larger each year, attaining heights of 9-12 feet. Arching stems, similar to Forsythia, result in a rounded, thicket-like shrub.

Due to its height (and somewhat gangly appearance), this one is best used in the back of the border or in the edge of woodlands where it will tolerate any type of soil (prefers acidic to neutral), any amount of sun or lack thereof (prefers sun to part sun), and almost any level of soil moisture (prefers moist, well-drained, not boggy). If ever there was a can’t-kill-it shrub, this is it.

Deciduous to semi-evergreen and hardy from zones 4 through 8, Breath of Spring is not browsed by deer or rabbits. It can be grown near Black Walnut trees. It requires no maintenance beyond the yearly pruning, and can be used as a coarse privacy hedge if available space will accommodate its spread of up to 15 feet. If you want to establish a hedge, strip the lower leaves off 9-inch stems and just push them into the ground along the desired hedge line. Most will take root without any help from the gardener. You can also cut blooming branches to enjoy its wonderful lemony fragrance indoors.

The tiny flowers of Lonicera fragrantissima pack a wallop of lemon-like fragrance.

The tiny flowers of Lonicera fragrantissima pack a wallop of lemon-like fragrance.

This Breath of Spring was not pruned in the last two years. It is 12 feet tall and 15 feet across. All blooms are on the outermost portion of the stems’ (newest) growth. On this warm winter day, every branch is alive with honeybees. It is located in…

This Breath of Spring was not pruned in the last two years. It is 12 feet tall and 15 feet across. All blooms are on the outermost portion of the stems’ (newest) growth. On this warm winter day, every branch is alive with honeybees. It is located in the edge of woodlands, where it receives 6 hours of sunlight during winter, and about 2 hours during summer when the surrounding trees are in leaf.

New Ajugas, New Colors

It is freezing outside. The wind is moaning like a banshee with a hangover. And I am indoors, fireside, with a cat on my feet and a lap full of nursery catalogs. It’s always fun to see the year’s newest seed and plant introductions and to read all the descriptions. A catalog from a seed company in South Carolina. has a whopping 184 entries for tomatoes. How can growers find 184 different ways to describe a tomato? And yet, they do.

Among the new plants for 2021 is an entire series of Ajuga reptans. ‘Feathered Friends’ encompasses seven new cultivars with golden, bronze or almost-black leaves. My heart beat a little faster when I saw Ajuga ‘Noble Nightingale.’ Some interior decorators recommend a touch of black in each room. A touch of black or almost black can elevate a so-so container combination to wow. Black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus 'Nigrescens') has been my go-to plant for containers, but ‘Noble Nightingale’ is only four inches tall, with a spread up to 18 inches. I can envision it with Euphorbia ‘Diamond Frost’ and something pink — Begonias or Caladiums. ‘Cordial Canary’ has golden yellow foliage, unlike any other Ajuga. ‘Parrot Paradise’ has leaves with shades of yellow, orange and red. From a distance, it reads as bronze.

Ajuga (common name is Bugleweed or Carpetweed) is easily grown in partial sun or shade. It will tolerate some drought. Blue flowers are a bonus. These undemanding groundcovers spread quickly, giving rise to some gardeners’ assessment of the plant as invasive. (It is a member of the mint family). It will grow and even thrive in many situations where other plants, including grass, won’t grow such as deep shade, dry soil, or under Black Walnut trees. It will tolerate minor foot traffic. Plants can be so vigorous that congested areas die. Prevent this by division. Ajuga is resistant to damage from deer and rabbits. Other than dieback from congestions, their only problem is root-rot when placed in wet soils.

The Mary Snoddy garden features ‘Burgundy Glow’ and ‘Black Scallop’ but these new cultivars are alluring. The above-mentioned ‘Feathered Friends’ is offered exclusively by Mast Young Plants. Here is a link to their site, so you can see photos of these beautiful new foliage colors: Ajugas

This photo of Ajuga ‘Black Scallop’ was taken February 3, proving that this groundcover for shade can look as good in mid-winter as it does during the warmer months. The almost-black foliage looks wonderful when paired with chartreuse, such as Lysim…

This photo of Ajuga ‘Black Scallop’ was taken February 3, proving that this groundcover for shade can look as good in mid-winter as it does during the warmer months. The almost-black foliage looks wonderful when paired with chartreuse, such as Lysimachia aurea, “Creeping Jenny” or rose shades, such as a bronze-leaf wax begonia with pink flowers..

Ajuga ‘Burgundy Glow’ lights up a dark area.

Ajuga ‘Burgundy Glow’ lights up a dark area.

A planting of Ajuga ‘Chocolate Chip’ along a walkway at Hatcher Garden and Woodland Preserve. (Photographer is unknown, unfortunately.) The shiny, rounded leaves offer beautiful contrast to the delicate fern fronds and the rough granite stones.

A planting of Ajuga ‘Chocolate Chip’ along a walkway at Hatcher Garden and Woodland Preserve. (Photographer is unknown, unfortunately.) The shiny, rounded leaves offer beautiful contrast to the delicate fern fronds and the rough granite stones.

A new planting of ‘Black Scallop’ Ajuga pops against the chartreuse foliage of Talinum (“Jewels of Opar” and the rounded leaves of several Hostas. It will eventually spread to cover all the pine needle mulch.

A new planting of ‘Black Scallop’ Ajuga pops against the chartreuse foliage of Talinum (“Jewels of Opar” and the rounded leaves of several Hostas. It will eventually spread to cover all the pine needle mulch.

Winter Jasmine, The Earliest Flowers

Tubular yellow flowers are erupting on leafless shrubs here in the Carolinas’ piedmont. Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum, pronounced JAZ-men-um noo-duh-FLORE-um) blooms early, about the same time as Crocus. The 6-petal unscented flowers are similar in color and shape to Forsythia, but are smaller and fewer. Flowers appear before leaves, and open first at the bottoms of stems, progressing to the tips. The shrub’s weeping structure is similar to Forsythia, but stems are smaller in diameter and young stems have a greenish tint, even when dormant.

Red exterior of unopened Winter Jasmine buds.

Red exterior of unopened Winter Jasmine buds.

Plants reach five feet in height. Like Forsythia, Winter Jasmine will spread aggressively unless controlled. Any stems that touch ground will take root. It flowers best in full sun but will tolerate shade, poor soil, and drought. Left alone, plants take on an unkept, thicket-like appearance after a few years. Remedy this with severe pruning as soon as the flowering season ends. I inherited an overgrown hedge of these plants when we bought a new home. They have encroached into the territory of a nearby row of boxwoods that I want to preserve, so in March I’ll cut the entire hedge to within a few inches of the soil and use a sharp spade to sever and remove the roots outside the target range.

Winter Jasmine stems are squarish in cross section, with four definite angles, while Forsythias are round. Tiny (less than an inch) compound leaves appear opposite on stems, which allows the gardener to distinguish it from Jasminum floridum, a visually similar plant with alternate leaves and the same messy haystack of stems.

Winter Jasmine is an excellent groundcover plant for slopes that would be difficult to mow. Its arching stems look like a waterfall cascading over walls . It is rarely damaged by deer, disease, or insects. It is hardy in zones 6 through 10

A hedge of Winter Jasmine, planted  on a steep bank above a business parking lot. Perfect for this location.

A hedge of Winter Jasmine, planted on a steep bank above a business parking lot. Perfect for this location.

The thicket-like growth of Winter Jasmine is evident here. The gray stems are dead and should be pruned out. Live stems are green.

The thicket-like growth of Winter Jasmine is evident here. The gray stems are dead and should be pruned out. Live stems are green.

Heuchera for Year-Round Beauty

When the winter garden is clothed in dormant twigs and fallen leaves, a touch of lively color lifts the spirit and reminds us that spring lurks ahead. Heuchera is a colorful group of perennials that are hardy from zones 4 to 9, depending upon variety and lineage. Modern cultivars have parents in H. villosa and H. americana. In the south, Heucheras (common names: Coral Bell, Alumroot) withstand hot and cold temperatures and look good every month of the year. Tiny blooms, a favorite of butterflies, are held atop wiry stems, but Heucheras are grown for their outstanding foliage. Cultivars have caramel, rose, lime, purple or green leaves marked with silver, red or white.

The lovely chartreuse green ‘Citronelle’ is one of the most heat tolerant cultivars. Grow it in shade to partial shade, where the leaves will be more yellow than green. Full sun leads to crispy edges and bleached leaves. I planted dozens of these in a lightly shaded bed. Within three years, there was only a single survivor. Each one got smaller and smaller, dwindling down to a single leaf before disappearing completely. I finally discovered the key to success – well-drained soil. The native heavy clay soil of upstate South Carolina mandated container culture, enhanced by fertile, well-drained potting soil and frequent watering. I plucked the lone ‘Citronelle’ specimen from the ground and placed it in a container with two other Heucheras, a purple-leaf variety (lost the cultivar name) and ‘Caramel,’ with caramel-colored leaves. Instant success! I eventually moved ‘Citronelle’ to her own container and replaced her with ‘Key Lime Rickey.’ These three live shoulder-to-shoulder in a container which looks as good in February as in August. Two ‘Amber Waves’ plants look especially good in a pair of peachy-toned clay pots along a brick walkway. These are sited in full sun. (Evidently, they did not receive the notification that they were meant for shade.)

A trio of Heucheras (‘Caramel,’ ‘Key Lime Rickey,’ and an unidentified purple leaf cultivar). These three live in harmony all year long. The container looks this good even in winter.

A trio of Heucheras (‘Caramel,’ ‘Key Lime Rickey,’ and an unidentified purple leaf cultivar). These three live in harmony all year long. The container looks this good even in winter.

Plant breeders introduce new cultivars every year, with an ever-broadening range of color and vein combinations. One thing I have learned about this wonderful plant: Catalog photos are taken when plants are at their very peak of beauty. Plants that exhibit gorgeous apricot and rose shades in spring (such as ‘Sweet Tea’ or ‘Peach Flambe’) may mature darker, even dirty-looking by August or September. My beloved ‘Berry Smoothie’ is raspberry-rose in spring but darkens to purple in winter. In catalogs, ‘Stop Light,’ is a beauty, with yellow-lime leaves marked with bright red veins. I have never been able to replicate the distinctive markings in my garden and had to settle for a red vein here and there. Purple-leaf forms age a bit better. ‘Obsidian’ is almost black. It looks especially good in containers with pink Begonias or Caladiums. Heucheras also pair well with smaller grasses, such as Lagurus ovatus ‘Bunny Tails.’

If a mature Heuchera develops an elongated stem, it is time to lift it and replant it to position the woody section under soil level. Remove tattered or crispy leaves at any time to keep the plant looking tidy. Heucheras are rarely browsed by deer or rabbits.

Finally, Heuchera is pronounced HEW-ker-ah. This one is mispronounced even more than Liriope. The first syllable rhymes with Yew. Get it right and you have risen to the upper echelon of gardeners.

Huge Flowers on Hardy Hibiscus

Every year the National Garden Bureau selects one “Plant of The Year” in five separate categories: annual, perennial, edible, bulb, and shrub. The chosen plants in each category are selected because of their widespread adaptability and ease of culture. The 2021 Shrub Of The Year is Hardy Hibiscus.

Hibiscus is both the common name and the Latin genus name for several species. Hardy Hibiscus should not be confused with Tropical Hibiscus (H. rosa-sinensis) or Shrub Hibiscus, commonly known as Rose of Sharon (H. syriacus). Tropical Hibiscus makes a showy container plant but is not cold hardy in most of the US. Rose of Sharon is a gangly shrub growing to fifteen feet. In the Mary Snoddy garden, Rose of Sharon is almost indestructible. It survives and even thrives in poor soil, full sun or partial shade, drought, and all-around abuse. There are few plants I dislike (I’m looking at you, Pampas Grass) but despite its attractive flowers over a long bloom season, Rose of Sharon is not among my favorites. The foliage has an unpleasant (to my nose) odor and it lures aphids in disgusting numbers.

Hardy Hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos) is hardy down to zero degrees or even colder. Plants require full sun and plenty of moisture to look their best. They will even survive in areas that flood occasionally. Plants die to the ground each winter; in spring they grow rapidly to heights ranging from two to ten feet. The flowers can be as large as dinner plates – 10 to 12 inches in diameter – and come in pink, rose, red, purple, white, and bi-colors. Lady Baltimore is pink with a red eye. Lord Baltimore is a solid red. The Baltimores have been putting on a show in southern gardens for decades. A newer cultivar, ‘Midnight Marvel’ has true red flowers and wine foliage, a gorgeous combination. I have been observing hardy Hibiscus ‘Moy Grande’ in a local botanical garden for several years. The cherry pink blooms are huge and plentiful. Each year, the plant gets larger than it was the prior year. This cultivar was developed in San Antonio, Texas, where  they know the meaning of “large.” ‘Disco Belle’ is a dwarf, reaching only thirty inches or so, but retaining the large flower size. 

Choose your favorite color, site it in full sun and rich soil, give it plentiful water and get out of the way. These bold plants grow fast. They should be given plenty of room. Remove stems a few inches above ground level when they are top-killed by frost. New growth is a little late to emerge in the spring, which means they pair well with daffodils or other spring bulbs that put on a show and then go dormant. Flowers attract hummingbirds and butterflies. Leaves attract Japanese Beetles, so be prepared to do battle with those nasty bugs. A single plant functions as a specimen, but a row planting can work as a warm-weather hedge.

The accompanying photographs were kindly supplied by the National Garden Bureau. Click on the individual photos for a link with additional identifying information.

Clivia Houseplant: Winter Flowers

The trumpet-shaped blooms of Clivia offer a welcome bright spot during gray mid-winter. Clivia miniata (pronounced KLIV-ee-ah min-ee-AY-tah) is cold hardy only in zones 9 and warmer, which means most gardeners enjoy it as a houseplant.

Clivia flowers may be orange or yellow (less common, more expensive). My first plant came as a gift from fellow Master Gardener, Dr. Jim Weeks. He assured me that it would survive low light levels, being root bound, occasional drought, and general neglect. Check, check and check. I placed it in a north-facing window, and have been rewarded with orange flowers every year since. Plants produce single stems topped with clusters of up to twenty buds. These open over days or weeks. My record has been blooms over 23 days. Not bad for a victim of my houseplant skills! The flowers result in seeds, but the most reliable means of propagation is separation and re-potting of the offsets produced by a mature plant. It may take a year or two for these offsets to bloom. Plants bloom best when moderately root bound.

Treat plants to a lukewarm shower occasionally to remove dust from the broad strap-like leaves that resemble Amaryllis, to which it is akin. Otherwise, avoid overwatering. Allow plants to dry out slightly between waterings, and never allow them to stand in water. Oldest leaves may yellow. This is normal. Trim these off with scissors. Give plants a rest period of 4-6 weeks with reduced water and night temperatures of 50 degrees to induce bud set. Use a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half-strength every two weeks once buds are visible. Plants prefer bright, filtered light but no direct sun. A north-facing window is ideal.

All parts of Clivia are toxic to pets and people.

A flowering Clivia miniata. Note that this specimen is in a nursery pot within a decorative cache pot. I remove the black plastic pot before giving the plant a thorough soaking, and allow it to drain before returning it to the ceramic container.

A flowering Clivia miniata. Note that this specimen is in a nursery pot within a decorative cache pot. I remove the black plastic pot before giving the plant a thorough soaking, and allow it to drain before returning it to the ceramic container.

This specimen is happy in a north-facing window, where it receives bright light but no direct sun.

This specimen is happy in a north-facing window, where it receives bright light but no direct sun.

There is root bound, and then there is Criminal Plant Neglect. This falls into the latter category.. She got a root trim and fresh soil.

There is root bound, and then there is Criminal Plant Neglect. This falls into the latter category.. She got a root trim and fresh soil.

New Year's Traditional Foods

Tomorrow will bring 2020 to a close. It has been a year unlike any other. During the pandemic, our seasonal celebrations were far from traditional. As we struggle to regain normalcy, many of us will enjoy the foods that are as much a part of New Year’s menus as turkey is for Thanksgiving.

Eating collards (or any other green of your choice, including turnip greens and cabbage) is supposed to ensure that one has plentiful “folding money” in the coming year. Black-eyed peas represent coins. These peas kept some southerners from starving to death during the food shortages of the civil war. Union soldiers considered them animal fodder, and did not destroy fields of them. As a child, I disliked cooked greens and tried to ensure my wealth by gobbling large quantities of peas, always seasoned with bacon.

Ownership of pigs and other livestock has long been considered a mark of prosperity.  Eating pork is supposed to bring gardening and/or financial success in the coming year. An alternate explanation is that pork consumption symbolizes progress into the future, much as pigs use their snouts to push forward when foraging for food. If you are one of the many whose landscaping has been destroyed by rooting of wild hogs, you are less likely to see the charm of this soil nudging. I once visited a swine farm in Vermont where the farmer put bowling balls in his pigsties for entertainment, to keep piglets from rooting up the posts of the fence that contained them.

Cornbread is the final component of traditional New Year’s dinner. It symbolizes gold. Americans adopted cornbread from Native Americans. There are regional differences. Northern recipes tend to add a bit of flour and sugar to the mix, while most southerners skip the sugar but may add pork cracklings. My husband is a purist, insisting on no sugar or wheat flour, and mandating that buttermilk is a required component of the mix. I can forgo the sugar, but find that adding chopped jalapenos elevates from so-so to delicious. To each their own.

Whether you choose to welcome the new year with traditional choices or tofu and vegan selections, I wish for you and your families a happy, healthy 2021.

A view of wild turkeys from my kitchen window yesterday. They must realize that Thanksgiving is past…

A view of wild turkeys from my kitchen window yesterday. They must realize that Thanksgiving is past…

…while another flock of turkeys wander down the driveway. The males “gobble” while this group of hens make odd clicking noises.

…while another flock of turkeys wander down the driveway. The males “gobble” while this group of hens make odd clicking noises.

Wagon-Wheel Herb Garden

The winter solstice this week marks the longest night of the year. Beginning December 22, daylight hours lengthen by a few minutes each day until the summer solstice in June marks the longest day. Like many of you, I am spending cold winter days indoors, perusing seed catalogs and waiting impatiently for the time to arrive when I can start tomatoes and peppers from seeds. It is difficult to resist my heated greenhouse’s alluring call to action.

It is too early to start most vegetables and summer annuals, but it is an ideal time to plan an herb garden. Two of my favorites, parsley and chives, take a long time to germinate and grow to decent size, so I can satisfy my seed-starting urges with these.

Parsley is finicky. Always start with fresh seed because they lose viability faster than most other seeds. I attain excellent germination by placing seeds in a waterproof container and pouring boiling water over them. I allow seeds to soak overnight before using tweezers to place them atop seed-starting medium, which is finer texture than potting soil. Use 4-6 seeds in each four-inch container. I featured curly parsley as a flower bed edging one year. It was very pretty – until hungry caterpillars moved in and annihilated it almost overnight. (It’s best to remind oneself that the caterpillars of today are the butterflies of tomorrow.) I prefer flat-leaf parsley for kitchen use.

One of my favorite designs for an herb garden is a wagon wheel. Metal lasts longer than wood, of course, but wooden wheels meant for decorative use are readily available and not expensive so you won’t mind replacing them when they rot. For the one pictured below, I removed half the spokes to make larger planting windows.

Twigga+mortis+sign.jpg

Labeling your herbs is not essential (you know what you planted) but is an attractive enhancement. Many plant markers are decorative as well as functional. My favorite ceramic markers lend humor to the garden: “Peakus Lastweekus,” “Plantum WhydIbuyem,” and “Twigga Mortis.” For the herb garden, I use small terra cotta saucers and a permanent black marker. (May God richly bless whomever developed the Sharpie Extreme, UV-resistant felt pen.) The coarse texture of terra cotta combines well with the unrefined exuberance of herb plants. Fill any gaps in the wheel with pansies or marigolds.

Small-stature herbs for the wagon wheel design: parsley, oregano, chives, garlic, dill, lemon balm, culinary sage, basil. Rosemary is my favorite herb for cooking and fragrance, but it grows large so should be planted where it has room to flourish. Innocent-looking mints are best confined to containers because they spread aggressively.

A lush herb garden, ready for harvest.

A lush herb garden, ready for harvest.

The initial planting of the herb wheel, in March.

The initial planting of the herb wheel, in March.